Resources :

  • Jump To:
  • Dog boredom vs anxiety

    DOG BOREDOM VS ANXIETY
    (from Victoria Stilwell’s “Positively” https://positively.com/dog-behavior/behavior-problems/separation-anxiety/dog-boredom-vs-anxiety/)

    Many people return home after a day at work to a household of destruction and mayhem, and their first assumption is that their dog suffers from acute separation anxiety. Sometimes this can be the case, but in many cases, the dog has destroyed the house as a cure for another very common problem in the canine world: acute boredom.

    Does My Dog Have Separation Anxiety or Is He Just Bored?
    There are specific signs that tell an experienced positive dog trainer whether the dog is truly suffering from separation anxiety or is simply trying to cope with feeling really bored and unstimulated. The end result can look similar, but thankfully many cases of supposed separation anxiety are actually easy-to-rectify cases of a bored dog finding ways to fill his day.

    The best way to find out whether constant barking or destruction is just boredom or true anxiety is to video your dog when he is alone. This is easily done by putting a camera on a tripod and focusing it on areas where the destruction is worst or by the door that is used most regularly to come and go. If the barking, whining and destruction is very severe particularly within the first 30 minutes of your departure, that is a good indicator that your dog is suffering some distress on separation. If however your dog goes to sleep after you leave and then wakes up and barks or chews, the behavior is more likely to be due to boredom.

    Once you have determined the cause of the behavior and established that your dog is just bored, how do you keep him entertained? The world is full of unemployed dogs that engage in very little activity and spend most of their lives on the couch. Even though most domestic dogs do not work for humans as they once did, however, their lives can still be enriched with activities, games, and exercise to prevent boredom, anxiety, and behavioral issues.

    10 Tips for Preventing Dog Boredom:

    Stimulate your dog’s senses by allowing him to experience different environments each day. Taking your dog around the neighborhood or to the local park can help mix up his everyday routine.
    If your dog is home alone for long hours, consider hiring a dog walker or (if appropriate) taking your dog to a reputable doggie daycare facility. Leaving your dog in the yard all day is just as bad as leaving him in your home.
    If your dog loves the car, take her for a ride. This is a great way to give a fearful or reactive dog mental stimulation outside the home.
    Play games with your dog. Hide-and-seek, fetch, Frisbee, and tug-of-war are all great games.
    Find a dog sport that you and your dog can enjoy together. Sports challenge your dog mentally and physically and can help fearful dogs gain confidence. There are sports that satisfy every type of dog, from agility to dock diving.
    Minimize destruction by managing your dog’s environment, and provide him with a safe area where he can stay when unsupervised.
    If your dog likes to be touched, give him a massage. This is a great way to relax your dog.
    Learn about your dog’s breed or mix of breeds and find activities that suit his abilities. Border collies enjoy herding, Bloodhounds love to track, and greyhounds are great at lure coursing. Find what suits you and your dog.
    Organize a regular dog walking group or set up canine playdates. Keep your dog social and active by giving him plenty of interaction with others.
    Therapy work is great for confident, social dogs. Find a therapy group near you and make a real difference with your dog.

    Can my dog be stressed? Part 2

    (From Victoria Stilwell’s “Positively”)

    By Beverley Courtney

    Here is the second of three excerpts from my forthcoming book – Building Confidence in your Growly but Brilliant Family Dog – which points out an area which will be affecting your dog mightily. Read the first excerpt here.

    While you’re doing your best to improve the situation and you take a look at what may be making things worse, you cannot overlook stress.

    Stress causes reactions to be exaggerated
    Stress causes us to snap
    Stress wears us out

    Here’s another area of your dog’s life that may be building stress that may surprise you.

    2. Not enough sleep

    This one floors so many people! Adult dogs need to sleep 17 hours a day for mental and physical stability. 17 hours a day! Is your dog getting anywhere near 17 hours a day? If your dog paces and runs, chews and barks, jumps and dives, plays and chases all the time at home, he is not living the carefree life you may imagine! I have seen the dramatic improvements that result from getting this one right.

    The ability to switch off, to relax and restore, is much sought after by people with enormously busy schedules and responsibilities. The most successful build naps and quiet time into their day as a matter of course – and that downtime is inviolable! They have learnt its importance.

    Teaching your dog how to switch off is essential to his mental wellbeing. Some dogs don’t need to learn this! Cricket the Whippet is happy to spend 22 hours a day under a duvet, reserving her activity for mealtimes and short bursts of awe-inspiring speed. But she has an even temperament and no hang-ups over other dogs or people. Nothing even startles her!

    But it’s a sure bet that your reactive and anxious dog will keep pacing and worrying and staying on guard-duty all day, unless rest-time is enforced.

    Relaxation and sleep

    Sleep – the great healerIf ever a dog needed its rest and restorative sleep, it’s the growly, fearful, or reactive dog. Think how you feel when you’re short of sleep and have a challenging day ahead with the family, or at work! You start off on a short fuse, and that may get shorter as the day goes on.
    Ensuring your dog gets enough downtime is critically important. It’s often at the root of her troubles. Once she’s getting enough restorative sleep she’ll be better able to cope with all the trials and tribulations of life. As indicated above, dogs need a massive 17 hours of sleep a day for optimal stresslessness. Is your dog getting anything like that? If not, you need to help him into a comfortable routine which does not involve endless pacing and activity.

    A quick case study

    Have a look at Tim, the rescue Border Collie, who I was visiting to work on his dog reactivity outside the house:

    While I was there, it became clear that this hyperactive dog was wearing himself out. For the first twenty minutes of my visit he never stopped. He raced in and out of the room, jumped up my front, my back, chewed my hair, poked the other dog, ran off again, paced … never rested.

    So I quickly amended my training plan to include some relaxation work straight away. After some active games to get Tim to engage with me, I started teaching him to slow down and relax. After just five minutes of this, his owner expressed amazement at seeing her frantic dog actually lying down still for more than ten seconds at a time!

    When I finished the short session and released him, what did he do? Do you think he went straight back into busybusy mode, panting and racing?

    Nope. He just slid onto the floor beside us, and as he lay there his head started to loll, his eyelids drooped, and he was … asleep! To the total astonishment of his owner, who had never seen him sleep in the day.

    Want to know what I did to achieve this blissful calm state? See the first book in the Essential Skills for a Brilliant Family Dog series: Calm Down! Step-by-Step to a Calm, Relaxed, and Brilliant Family Dog (free at all e-book stores) to get the exact program. Quite apart from the usefulness of this skill for any dog, anywhere, your reactive dog will hugely benefit.

    Watchpoint: teaching calm and relaxation is not teaching a stay exercise (although you will get a solid stay as a result) with the traditional stern shouting and finger-waving. The object is quite different – to change your dog’s mental state, not to anchor his physical position.

    Learning how to switch off can also help with Separation Anxiety. And, of course, your dog will be better able to cope with the challenges he’ll meet outdoors if his nerves aren’t jangling.

    For a free e-course to help remove the stress from your life, and your dog’s life – and news about the new book! – go to www.brilliantfamilydog.com/growly

    Can my dog be stressed? Part 1

    (from Victoria Stilwell’s “Positively”)

    By: Beverley Courtney

    Those of us who have a reactive, anxious, or fearful dog, work very hard to make life easier for them (and us!).

    We try this idea and that technique, perhaps with distressingly little success. Some days our dog just seems worse!

    Here is the first of three excerpts from my next book – Building Confidence in your Growly but Brilliant Family Dog – which points out an area which will be affecting your dog mightily.

    While you’re doing your best to improve the situation and you take a look at what may be making things worse, you cannot overlook stress.

    Stress causes reactions to be exaggerated
    Stress causes us to snap
    Stress wears us out

    And there are some areas of your dog’s life that are building stress that will really surprise you.

    1. Too many walks

    “What!” you squawk! “I thought I had to take my dog out for a walk every single day! I thought I was doing the right thing!”

    Well, like so much in life, that depends. It depends on how your dog is experiencing these walks.

    A happy-go-lucky dog who loves meeting people and other dogs will relish his daily walks. But that’s not the dog you have, or you wouldn’t be reading this.

    It may be that your dog gets sick with anxiety at the very thought of a walk. The walk may consist of you getting upset or telling him off while he runs the gauntlet of narrow paths, fence-running dogs, squealing children, dog walkers walking their dog straight towards him, traffic noises, people wanting to pat his head …

    This is not an enjoyable walk for an anxious, shy, or reactive dog!

    There are two reasons for walking your dog. One is for exercise. The other is for socialisation. Clearly the second reason here is a fail. So cut your losses, exercise your dog with vigorous play in the garden or on solo walks in a relatively dog-free zone – a forest trail, for instance – and save road walks for when your dog is calm and you can avoid most of the hazards.

    Energy-burning games

    There are great games you can play with your dog to exercise him – without ever having to leave your home. Free running and jumping about till your dog’s sides are heaving, his tongue lolling, and his eyes shining, are what you want for exercise.

    If you have outside space you can play with balls or frisbees, reinforcing the connection between you all the while. Tug is a game that uses a load of energy – and you can really go to town on harnessing your dog’s instinctive drives by playing with a flirt-pole.

    The joy of these games is that you can use them to build your dog’s impulse control at the same time. He’ll learn never to jump up or snatch the toy from your hand in Tug. And the flirt-pole teaches the collection and restraint needed for a successful bunny-hunt.

    And no, it won’t turn your dog into a predatory nightmare. I used the flirt-pole to build Cricket the Whippet’s impulse control around small furry things, with the result that I can call her off rabbits. I have known dogs who were so full-on in their play that their owners had to wear thick gloves to play with them and stay in one piece! Once the dog learns the rules of the game, it becomes rewarding for both parties – and no more need for gloves.

    If you have no outside space, you can rely on Tug to tire your dog out – especially as you’re getting him to use his brain in this puzzle too.

    French Bulldog pup on skateboardUsing wobble cushions and planks will help to build muscles and balance that your dog didn’t know he had. Walking down the stairs, then walking up again backwards, step by step, is a skill which uses lots of brain and brawn.

    Hide and Seek is always a popular, tiring, and satisfying, game, especially if you have children to join in. My boys used to love rolling themselves up in their duvets and waiting to be found – which didn’t take long with all the squealing going on!

    Choose a good time for an outing

    Once your dog is rested from having to face the daily challenge of a walk, you should see some calmness entering the picture.

    Then when you feel ready, you can take him out. The aim of Puppy Socialisation is to expose your pup as much as possible to all the experiences of our world – while the puppy enjoys the experience. The same goes for your older dog. Taking him places where he is scared or uncomfortable is just tormenting him without any good resulting: in fact this could make him more fearful.

    So find a quiet time when you can take your dog out for a walk, and be flexible with your plans! You can turn away from anything your dog finds upsetting.

    The garbage truck is collecting and making a huge noise? Just turn and go the other way. There’s a school outing of excited children heading towards you? Go! Heavy rain is making the traffic very noisy? Head home.

    Resist the temptation to say “I always go this way,” and go right, then left, through the street market, across the railway bridge … Your walk can just be the same 100 yards in front of your house repeated several times!

    As long as your dog is viewing this as a positive experience, then you are succeeding.

    What is the result we want?

    We’re focussing on the outcome here – calm walks with a happy and relaxed dog. If your daily walks are not a step in this direction, then you need to cut them right back.

    For a free e-course to help remove the stress from your life, and your dog’s life – and news about the new book! – go to www.brilliantfamilydog.com/growly

    Antihistamines for dogs (and cats)

    Anithistamines for dogs (and cats) Many of us are seeing an increase in allergies in our dogs at this time of year, and more often than not, it’s seasonally related (just like with humans and hay fever). Personally, I always start with Benadryl/Diphenhydramine if one of ours starts itching/nibbling, but my all-time favourite (for me too) is Rx Hydroxyzine. Do bear in mind that not every antihistamine works on every dog, just like with humans – you might need to try different ones to find one that works. And unfortunately, in some cases, you might need to go further, talking with your vet about low-dose steroids or other medications.

    The following is a list of options for antihistamines that are known to be effective in dogs & cats. The name of the active ingredient is listed, with the name of a well known brand in parentheses. Also listed are approximate doses for different weights, and any precautions.

    CAUTION: Do not purchase antihistamines that are combination products (multi-symptom, cold/flu medicines, decongestants, etc.), especially products that contain decongestants (often labeled with a D, as in “Zyrtec-D”). These products often contain a high level of stimulants that are toxic, even life-threatening, to animals. In addition, products containing acetaminophen (active ingredient in Tylenol) are deadly for cats. ANTIHISTAMINES AVAILABLE “OVER-THE-COUNTER”

     
    1) Clemastine (formerly “Tavist”) – One of the more effective choices. Unfortunately, the over the counter form of Tavist containing the antihistamine “clemastine” has become unavailable. Therefore, we carry this antihistamine in our in-house pharmacy, in the 1.34mg strength. Available in: 1.34mg tablets, 2.68mg tablets, and 0.67mg/5ml liquid
     
    Dosage: DOG WEIGHT (in pounds)                          Dose (tablet = 1.34mg tablet) 5-15                                                            (liquid) 1-2cc or ¼ tablet twice daily 15-25                                                             ½ tablet twice daily
    25-50                                                              1 tablet twice daily 50-70                                                             1 or 2 tablets twice daily
    Over 70                                                           2 tablets twice daily
    CATS: ¼ to ½ tablet once daily (1.34mg tablets). Very effective in cats May cause: sedation, hyperactivity, or diarrhea (in cats only). Discuss with your veterinarian if your pet has: Prostatic hypertrophy (intact male dogs), urinary or GI obstruction, or severe heart disease NOTE: Do not confuse this product with a similar product called “Tavist N.D,” which is a different type of antihistamine, and is less effective.
     
    2) Diphenhydramine (“Benadryl”) Available in: 12.5mg children’s tablets, 25mg capsules, and 12.5mg/5ml liquid (liquid not recommended if it contains alcohol)
    Dosage: DOG WEIGHT (in pounds)                          Dose (tablet = 12.5mg, capsule = 25mg) 5-10                                                            ½ children’s tablet twice daily 10-15                                                             1 children’s tablet 2-3 times daily 15-35                                                             1 capsule 2-3 times daily 35-50                                                             1 or 2 capsules 2-3 times daily 50-80                                                             2 or 3 capsules 2-3 times daily
    Over 80                                                          3 or 4 capsules 2-3 times daily
    CATS: Generally not recommended. Clemastine, Chlorpheniramine and Cyproheptadine are more effective. May cause: sedation, hyperactivity, diarrhea (rare), vomiting (rare), or loss of appetite (rare). Discuss with your veterinarian if your pet has: glaucoma, GI or urinary obstruction, COPD (chronic lung disease), hyperthyroidism, seizure disorders, heart disease or high blood pressure. NOTE: Do not use Diphenhydramine products that contain any other active ingredients (like acetaminophen). These other products are potentially toxic to your pet (especially cats!).
     
    3) Chlorpheniramine (“Chlor Trimeton”) Available in:  4mg tablets , and 2mg/5ml liquid
    Dosage: DOG WEIGHT (in pounds)                          Dose (based on 4mg tablet ) 5-10                                                            1/4-1/2 tablet 2-3 times daily 10-20                                                            1/2 to 1 tablet 2-3 times daily 20-40                                                            1 to 2 tablets 2-3 times daily 40-60                                                            2 to 4 tablets 2-3 times daily
    Over 60                                                         4 to 6 tablets 2-3 times daily
    CATS: 1-4 mg per cat once or twice daily. Very effective in cats. May cause: sedation or hyperactivity. Discuss with your veterinarian if your pet has: glaucoma, high blood pressure, GI or urinary obstruction, hyperthyroidism, heart disease. NOTE: Do not use chlorpheniramine products that contain any other active ingredients (like acetaminophen). These other products are potentially toxic to your pet (especially cats!).
     
    4) Cetirazine (Zyrtec) This may be the best antihistamine for eosinophillic inflammation (one of the primary cell types associated with allergies). It is a formerly prescription-only medication that is now available over the counter. Available in: 5mg and 10mg tablets
    Dosage: DOG WEIGHT (in pounds)                          Dose
    Less than 15                                                One 5mg tablet once daily
    15-39                                                          5mg twice daily, or 10mg once daily
    Over 40                                                       10mg twice daily
    CATS: 5mg ½ to 1 tablet 1 or 2 times daily. May cause: Hyperexcitability in dogs NOTE: Twice daily dosing is often needed.
     
    ANTIHISTAMINES BY PRESCRIPTION ONLY
    1) Hydroxyzine (Atarax) This is one of the more effective antihistamines for dogs. However, it is generally more expensive that the “over-the –counter” antihistamines. We can provide a written prescription for you, if you want to try this antihistamine. Available in: 10mg, 25mg, and 50mg tablets
    Dosage: DOG WEIGHT (in pounds)                              Dose 5-10                                                             One10mg tablet 2-3 times daily 10-15                                                             1 or 2 10mg tablets 2-3 times daily 15-30                                                             One 25mg tablet 2-3 times daily 30-50                                                             One 50mg tablet 2-3 times daily
    50-70                                                             1 or 2 50mg tablets 2-3 times daily
    Over 70                                                          2 or 3 50mg tablets 2-3 times daily
    CATS: ½ to 1 10mg tablet 2-3 times daily. May cause: sedation most likely. Dogs rarely: tremors, seizures. Cats: increased thirst, depression or behavioral changes. Discuss with your veterinarian if your pet has: prostatic hypertrophy (intact male dogs), urinary or GI obstruction, severe heart disease, or glaucoma. NOTE: Also has anti-nausea effect, and can be used for motion sickness.
     
    2) Cyproheptadine (Periactin) This is one of the more effective antihistamines for cats. We carry this medication in stock at our hospital. Available in: 2mg and 4mg tablets (we only keep 4mg tablets in stock)
    Dosage: DOG WEIGHT (in pounds)                          Dose (4mg tablet) 5-10                                                             ¼ tablet 2-3 times daily 10-20                                                             ½ tablet 2-3 times daily 20-40                                                             ½ to 1 tablet 2-3 times daily 40-70                                                             1 to 2 tablets 2-3 times daily
    Over 70                                                          2 or 3 tablets 2-3 times daily
    CATS: 4 mg tablet ¼ to 1 tablet 2 times daily. May cause: sedation, dry mouth, Cats: hyperexcitability Discuss with your veterinarian if your pet has: urinary or GI obstruction, heart disease, or glaucoma. NOTE: Also has an appetite-stimulating effect in cats. Be cautious of excessive weight gain.

    http://cheyennewest.com/antihistamines-for-dogs-cats/  

    Alpha dogs and pack mentality

    We’ve all heard the advice that as dog owners, we should be the alpha dog or pack leader in our house or else our dogs will assume the role, take over, and pretty much make our lives miserable. That’s the basic theory behind traditional dog training methods, made even more popular by a certain TV-show dog rehabilitator. The training style commonly uses dominance and force-type methods based on the notions of alpha dogs and pack mentality. Those concepts evolved from studies done more than half a century ago while observing wolves in captivity.

    In contrast, positive reinforcement (+R or force-free) training takes a different approach based on using rewards to train and shape dog behavior, often controlling the resources a dog wants or needs and encouraging appropriate behavior out of the dog’s own self interest. In the world of positive reinforcement training, the terms alpha and pack leader are usually considered taboo, as they’re often associated with using force, threats or intimidation and sometimes create anxious or fearful reactions from dogs. But in this era of political correctness, have we gone too far in totally dismissing the notions of alpha dogs and pack mentality?

    “In this era of political correctness, have we gone too far in totally dismissing the notions of alpha dogs and pack mentality?”

    My Thoughts on Alpha Dogs and Pack Mentality

    I’m a big believer in positive reinforcement training but I also know how effective a well-timed correction can be, as I talked about in the post Using Corrections With Positive Reinforcement Training. I believe domesticated dogs are still pack animals and even though we’re not part of a traditional canine pack with them, we are part of their social pack. As in any pack, there’s usually a leader that sets the rules for acceptable behavior and if the leader governs with fairness, rather than fear, there will be mutual respect and harmony within the group. In both animal and human social circles, I’ve noticed there’s usually a status ranking or pecking order between members of the social group. Here are a few examples.

    Example #1 – The Human Starting a New Job

    Entering a new work environment is stressful because you’re often unsure about how you’ll fit in with your peers. Once you’ve met and sized up your co-workers, you feel more comfortable about your place within the business and social hierarchy. It can also be stressful to the group when a new co-worker joins the team as the team’s hierarchy could be restructured.

    Example #2 – The Horse Moved to a Different Pasture

    When my parents had their horse farm, it was interesting to watch the adjustment period when a horse was moved into a different pasture with an established group of horses. The pecking order would often get reshuffled as the newcomer tried to figure out where they fit into the existing hierarchy of the herd. After some kicking, chasing and displays of dominance and submissiveness by several of the horses, a new pecking order would be established and harmony was restored.

    Example #3 – The Dog Entering a Dog Park

    When taking a new dog into a dog park with a group of regulars that play together, you can expect the regulars will be anxious to check out the newcomer and along with lots of butt sniffing, there might be some growling, snapping and posturing as members of the now larger pack figure out how the newcomer fits in.
    Dogs Swimming

    Am I the Alpha in Our Pack?

    Yes, I do think of myself as alpha over Haley. It’s a popular notion these days for dog owners to think of themselves as equals with their dogs. Even the term dog owner is offensive to some people, but I’ll save that topic for another discussion. I don’t see myself as an equal to Haley because somebody has to create and enforce the rules, provide the food and shelter, drive to the vet’s office for medical care, etc. It’s my responsibility to assume the alpha role although I’m not sure Haley views me the same as she would view an alpha dog in a canine pack. What’s more important is the fact that we have a hierarchical structure based on mutual respect, and it works very well for us. Here are my roles and responsibilities as an alpha.

    • Protector – The most important role is to protect Haley and keep her safe from harm. She should feel relaxed and confident knowing that I’m in control so she doesn’t have to assume the role of protector.
    • Provider – Beyond providing the basics of food, water and shelter, I make sure Haley is healthy, fit and stays both mentally and physically active and challenged. She gets plenty of affection and playtime too!
    • Teacher – There have to be rules and training for acceptable behavior and what works best for Haley is positive reinforcement techniques using clear communication and direction. But it’s not just all about rules. There are plenty of fun and exciting tricks, skills and activities you can teach your pup too!
    • Leader – Dogs need leadership and guidance based on love, trust and respect. A consistent and fair leader with positive energy can keep even a pushy dog from becoming a nuisance without resorting to using force, threats or intimidation.

    Dominant DogIt’s a shame that the terms alpha and pack leader have become so closely tied to old-school, discipline and dominance-based training methods because the principles are still relevant and important. Some people may dislike the terms, but that doesn’t change the fact that someone has to lead, set the rules and keep the peace. In fact, the lack of leadership and structure is one reason some out-of-control dogs are surrendered to shelters by frustrated owners at their wits end. It’s also worth noting that every dog is different and some need more structure and guidance than others, but it should always be given via positive and humane methods built on trust and respect.

    If your goal is to have a dog that listens and respects you, forget the notion of submissive alpha roles or making sure your dog never goes through a door before you. Focus instead on using positive methods of training your pup and you’ll become a truly benevolent and respected alpha in your pack.

    Alpha Dogs and Pack Mentality – Revisited

    What should you do when your dog growls at someone?

    I admit, that’s a pretty broad question to answer because dogs growl for a lot of different reasons. There are good growls, like when a dog’s having fun playing tug-of-war and there are bad growls like when a dog growls at a young child. Nobody wants their dog to growl at an innocent child and our first instinct is usually to swiftly correct the dog in order to send a message that we don’t like that behavior. I was guilty of doing that with Haley when she was younger because it’s a common human reaction, but when I stopped to think about why Haley was growling and what she was feeling, I realized that she was only trying to communicate her feelings.

    A Dog’s Growl Can Mean:

    • I’m having fun trying to wrestle this rope toy away from you.
    • I’m hurting or don’t feel good and would like to be left alone.
    • I heard something outside, but I’m not sure if it’s anything to be worried about.
    • I’m unsure of the person that I see walking up the driveway.
    • I’m defending my yard or my spot on the couch.
    • I’m worried that you might take my food or toy away from me.
    • I’m scared, stressed or uncomfortable in this situation.

    The last two reasons, fear and possessiveness, are the ones that usually cause that knee-jerk reaction inside of us to issue a correction. If a dog is fearful or aggressive, you’ll often see other body language signals before you hear a growl. For a lot of dogs, a growl is the last warning sign before they could be provoked to bite or attack, especially if they feel cornered and can’t retreat. It’s a vocal warning, a heads up so to speak, so the last thing you want to do is correct a dog for growling and possibly silence their early warning system. If you know when your dog is fearful or uncomfortable before they resort to a bite, you’ve got the best chance to desensitize them through counterconditioning.

    Haley’s Fear of Little Girls

    When Haley was young, she had a fear of small children, especially little girls. I think part of her fear came from an encounter we had with some very pushy and aggressive little girls that approached us in the park during her socialization period. Not long after that incident, she would sometimes emit a low, quiet growl when kids would approach her. It’s not a good feeling to have a dog that growls at kids. I wanted Haley to feel comfortable around children and I wanted to be able to take her anywhere without worrying about how she might react to people. Here’s what I did to help her overcome that fear.

    My first job was to protect her (and of course, the kids) while we began the counterconditioning process. We first visited parks and watched children play at a distance where Haley was comfortable and relaxed and she got plenty of treats and praise for her cooperation. When we would pass children on our walks, I would create more distance to keep her comfortable and again, she got lots of yummy treats and affection. We slowly decreased the distance to the children and increased the level of interaction but only within Haley’s comfort zone and while ensuring the safety of the kids. It didn’t take long before she started associating good things with the sight and sounds of youngsters and eventually she was even relaxed enough to listen and take commands from them, in exchange for yummy treats of course.

    I have to add a disclaimer here. I don’t mean to imply that everything you need to know about fixing an issue with a reactive dog is found in the paragraph above. The concept of counterconditioning is simple to understand in theory, but it’s a slow process that requires you to be able to closely analyze your dog’s behavior and body language. For that reason, it’s best to consult with a professional trainer or canine behaviorist first. I just wanted to give a real example of how Haley’s anxiety issue was treated because she was initially able to communicate her fearfulness to me by growling. Here are some tips if you’re ever in a situation where your dog’s growling at someone.

    What To Do When Your Dog Growls at Someone

    1. Don’t correct your dog.

    Growling is the best way your dog has to communicate with you and others that she’s stressed or uncomfortable. It’s her early warning signal before matters could escalate to a bite.

    2. Maintain control of your dog.

    To ensure everyone’s safety, make sure your dog is fully under your control and leashed.

    3. Stay calm.

    Dogs sometimes react to our own emotions, so it’s important to stay relaxed, move slowly and use a calm tone of voice when your dog is growling or showing signs of stress.

    4. Create distance.

    Diffuse your dog’s reaction by putting distance between her and the person she’s reacting to, even if that means turning around and walking in the opposite direction. If your dog is growling at you, slowly move away and give her more space.

    5. Don’t pressure your dog.

    Don’t pressure or push your dog to accept or approach the person she’s uncomfortable with. Pressuring a dog that’s already stressed will likely escalate her emotions to a level where she could lash out and bite.

    6. Check your attitude.

    If your dog is growling at you or is being possessive of food or toys, don’t make the assumption that she’s being dominant or defiant. Confronting her or reacting back with an aggressive attitude will likely escalate her reaction and diminish trust.

    7. Put together a game plan.

    After analyzing the situation, create a plan to help your dog overcome her issue. Don’t be afraid to ask for help from a professional trainer or canine behaviorist that specializes in using positive reinforcement methods. They can best advice you on the appropriate course of action when dealing with fear or aggression related issues.

    What If Your Dog’s Growling at Someone Outside Your Home?

    It’s normal for dogs to want to protect their territory and alert you to anything unusual outside by growling or barking at the window. Most people like having a dog that will let them know if something looks suspicious. I don’t mind Haley’s growling when this happens, but the barking can get annoying sometimes. I’ve always used the phrase It’s Okay when I want to calm her down, so instead of saying “No!” or “Quiet!” when she alerts me to something, I say “It’s Okay”. This usually works pretty well and her demeanor changes as if she’s thinking “Okay, you can take care of this one if they come busting through the door”.

    Snarling Dog

    PHOTO BY SMERIKAL / CC BY-SA 2.0

    Sometimes it’s hard to fight the instinct to correct a dog that’s growling at someone, especially if that someone happens to be us or a small child. But when we understand that our dogs are actually trying to communicate their feelings, we should be thankful they’re giving us a heads up warning and the opportunity to help them overcome the stressful issue they’re dealing with.

    Have you ever been concerned when your dog growled at someone? What did you do?

     http://chasingdogtales.com/what-should-you-do-when-your-dog-growls-at-someone/

    What should I do when my dog reacts?

    (From Victoria Stilwell’s ‘Positively’)

    Naughty But Nice: What should I do when my dog REACTS?

    When we come across a situation our dog doesn’t like, whether that be seeing something (e.g. a black wire-haired small dog, a person with a beard, a child, etc.), hearing something or any other experience, there is a huge temptation to encourage interaction with that thing. It’s human nature to feel the need to DO something in that very instant – to FIX the problem.

    WARNING – This is the worst thing to do!! Here are four tips to turn worry into confidence!

    1. Give them a break! Stress levels don’t come down instantly, in fact they can take days to return to their normal levels after an incident! Giving them at least a few days break from both positive and negative arousal/stress events is key to ensuring this does not become a frequent occurrence. My research shows that it can take 72 hours+ before some dogs stop showing a behavioural response after a “reactivity episode”, and this suggests that their buckets may be quite full for some time following that!

    nbn1

    1. Build an optimist!

    The underlying cause of this response is, what I call and for which there is an increasing body of evidence, a pessimistic bias on the way they perceive and process experiences. This means that new or novel and slightly different or ambiguous situations may be presumed to be something negative, something bad!

    New thing = it’s going to eat me!

    Building an optimist involves, long-term, teaching the dog that new things are something good; we need to make them predictors of good stuff, which in most cases is food! Setting aside some of your dog’s daily food allowance and using this to pay into the optimism bank account by following new or different things with food throughout the day is incredibly effective! Equally, shaping games and filling your dog’s lives with fun massively helps this too!

     

    1. Work with SIMILAR, not the same!

    When it comes to actually tackling the specific situation that concerned you, I urge you to leave that specific situation well alone and work on similar ones instead! Let’s take the example of your dog lunging forward and barking as a car backfires on a walk.

    • First of all, I would give him a break from all things stressful or high arousal for a few days.
    • Next up would be setting into action a plan to build your dog as more of an optimist.
    • Then you could begin building a more positive association with other loud noises, following the sounds of doors closing, dogs barking in the distance or a truck driving past the house with delivery of food from your dog’s daily food allowance.
    • Then you may do the same on a walk,
    • and finally the situation may present itself again where a car backfires. The difference this time is that your dog is now much more prepared to perceive this as something not so terrible and what’s more you have practised all the skills to be able to build this specific situation as something positive for your dog!

    Forcing interaction with the scary thing is possibly the worst thing you could do in that instant but certainly is the most tempting! Following these three simple tips will ensure long-term success in this!

    1. Games, Games, Games!

    The secret to working with these dogs is using a programme that focusses on simple, quickebook games you can play in your living room.These games add in the fun, take off the pressure and teach key skills!

    The focus of these games might be, for example, focus, impulse control, calmness or even games that train behaviours you can use in tricky situations, like “middle”. In this latest downloadable and completely three eBook, five games that, in my opinion, are the fundamentals to any programme of working with dogs that may be reactive, easily overaroused, frustrated or just lacking focus or impulse control: http://tinyurl.com/zdjwcdo

    Enjoy!

    https://positively.com/contributors/what-should-i-do-when-my-dog-reacts/

     

    Prey drive

    Prey Drive

    Prey drive is one of the most widely misunderstood aspects of the canine personality. Prey drive is NOT the same as aggression. This has been demonstrated scientifically using Electrical Stimulation of the Brain (ESB) studies. The part of the brain that controls predatory behavior is completely separate from the part of the brain that controls aggressive behavior. Predatory behaviors are fun for animals. Aggressive behaviors are not. This was also demonstrated with ESB studies. When given the choice, animals will push the button to stimulate the predatory part of their brain. When given the choice, animals will NOT push the button to stimulate the aggressive part of their brain. That tells us that predatory behaviors are enjoyable while aggressive behaviors are not.

    ESB studies also show that all animals have a predatory part of their brain. In non-predatory animals, like rats, this part of their brain is never triggered (until they did it in a lab with ESB). Dogs are predators as well as scavengers, so that part of their brain does get triggered. A dog who chases and kills prey is doing what normal dogs do. Dogs and cats alike do not always kill for food. Chasing and killing prey are vestigial wolf behaviors. It’s not necessary for the domestic dog’s survival but lingers from their genetic roots, rather like our appendix! However, as anyone who has had a ruptured appendix knows, this vestigial behavior can cause serious problems.

    When we make the decision to bring a predatory animal into our lives, we must accept that prey drive is part of who they are. When prey drive crosses the line from normal dog behavior to serious problem is when the dog is out of control. Dogs who escape their own fences and roam free in the neighborhood killing cats and sometimes even other dogs are a menace to society. Society holds dogs to a different standard than every other predatory animal. It is our responsibility as dog owners to be aware of that and protect our dogs. They could be labeled a dangerous or vicious animal for killing a cat, and it does not matter how irrational that is. For your dog’s safety and for your personal liability (you could be sued, fined, or even jailed), make sure your dog is under control.

    Many people believe that dogs who kill cats will also kill children. This is a false assumption. Normal healthy pet dogs do not kill children and know the difference between a cat and a child. However, several dogs together who have not been fully raised in a domestic home environment can kill large prey such as sheep, goats, and cattle, and even children. Wolves are able to kill prey much larger than themselves because they hunt in packs. When a group of dogs get together, they can emulate this wolf behavior.

    Prey drive can also be a problem when you take your dog for a walk on leash, especially if you have a large dog. Dogs have approximately as much strength as a person 3 times their size. So, if you have an 80 pound dog and you are not a 240+ pound person, you will not be able to control the dog with strength alone. When a high prey drive dog spots a prey animal, something switches in their brain and all they are focused on is that prey. If they decide to take off for the chase, you could have your shoulder wrenched, fall on your face, lose your dog completely as he jerks the leash out of your hand, or all of the above! It is especially important with the high prey drive dog to have voice control of him.

    Does my dog have a high prey drive?


    If your dog has a high prey drive, he will show predatory behaviors even if there is no actual prey around. This includes pouncing on and/or shaking toys and intense focus on things that move erratically, such as a leaf falling from a tree or a plastic bag being blown by the wind. Of course, picking birds off the birdbath is also a pretty good clue! The canine personality profile will tell you your dog’s prey drive score. The score will give you a good idea of how diligent you need to be with your dogs around small animals.

    Managing the high prey drive dog

    Containment

    It’s important to keep all pet dogs contained when you are not around to supervise them. It’s the law. It keeps your dog safe. It protects you from liability. But, it’s even more crucial with the high prey drive dog. If your dog gets loose and kills a neighbor’s cat or small dog, you could face fines or jail time, lose your homeowner’s insurance, and your dog could be euthanized. The risk becomes greater the more dogs you have. Wolves are able to hunt prey much larger than themselves because they work together in packs. Dogs retain that ability to band together to take down large prey. Children running on a playground can become a target for a pack of dogs. Nodody wants to get that phone call. So, be proactive and take extra steps to keep your dog confined to your own home or yard.

    Physical fencing is the best option. A skirt of chicken wire around the bottom of the fence will help with digging. Sheet metal buried just beneath the soil around the fence is another good option for discouraging diggers. For climbers, try wire fencing in front of your regular fencing. It’s not sturdy enough to handle the weight of an animal trying to climb over. Electric and invisible fences work for some dogs, but others will run straight through it hollering all the way. Even dogs who are normally contained by the invisible fence may get such an adrenaline rush from the thrill of the chase that they will run through it after a squirrel or a cat. If you are having difficulty keeping your dog contained by a fence, consider building a kennel or crating him inside when you’re away from home.

    Voice Control

    Voice control means that your dog obeys your commands even at a distance from you. If you have voice control of your dog, you can stop a chase simply by telling him to leave it. It’s not as easy as it sounds. Your dog may be the picture of obedience in your backyard with nothing around to distract him. The real test is if your dog will obey your voice commands with a squirrel skittering nearby. Getting that level of obedience takes some commitment. However, it’s not as much as one might think. Just 15 minutes per day of working with your dog will do wonders. In fact, short training sessions are better than very long ones because attentions can wander after a while. That’s why Geometry class is only an hour long! Who could focus on rectangles any longer than that?

    The typical voice command to tell a dog to not even think about going after what he’s thinking of going after is “leave it”. Leave It means don’t look at it, don’t touch it, don’t go anywhere near it. Work on teaching leave it at home first. When you’re out walking with your dog, be aware of your surroundings and your dog’s reaction to what is happening. The best time to deliver the leave it command is the instant his eyes lock on to a target. If you wait any longer, his brain can switch to hyper-focused mode, and he won’t even hear you. With practice, you will get to know your dog’s body language well enough to see the difference in when he is looking at the squirrel but still “with you” and when he is no longer “with you”. It’s ok if he wants to watch the squirrel, as long as he remains “with you”.

    Equipment

    If you don’t want to forego your daily walks while you’re working on voice control, and who would blame you, there are products available that will help you to physically control your dog while you are working on training him. These tools are not a substitute for training but are helpful for that period while you are training. After all, tools can fail, break, or malfunction. A good relationship is always stronger than a tool.

    Prong Collar Known as “power steering” for dogs, prong collars look like a medieval torture device, but used correctly they are rather benign. Try it on yourself first if you have any doubts. There are dogs who are very touch sensitive who cannot tolerate a prong collar. If you try it on your dog, and he completely shuts down, use one of the other options instead. more on the prong collar… proper fit of the prong collar…

    Snap-around Collar A snap-around collar works much the same as a choke collar with one important distinction. It does not have to slip over the dog’s head. It “snaps around” their neck instead. This allows for proper fitting of the collar which is the same as described for the prong collar in the link above. It is difficult to achieve this fit with a regular choke collar because it has to be large enough to slide over the dog’s head. This is a good option for those dogs who cannot tolerate the prong collar. more on the snap-around collar…

    Head Halter Head halters work similarly to reins on a horse. They fit around the dog’s face to give you more control on walks. These are an excellent option for those who are uncomfortable using prong or snap-around collars. Use what works for your dog. Although many humans believe this option to be the kindest, many dogs disagree. Just as some dogs cannot tolerate the prong, some dogs cannot tolerate wearing something on their face. Try them all on and let your dog decide. more on the head halter… cons of the head halter…

    Harnesses Harnesses can actually encourage pulling. What do you put on a dog when you want him to pull a sled? A harness! However, there are some harnesses on the market designed to discourage pulling, such as the no-pull harness. more on the no-pull harness…

    Appropriate Outlets

    Prey Drive cannot be erradicated in a dog. It can only be managed. One way to do that is to redirect it to appropriate outlets. The energy has to go somewhere, so you might as well control where it goes. You cannot turn your dog into a predator by playing these games. He already is one.

    Fetch! Chocolate Labs are an example of a dog who has been intentionally bred to maintain a high prey drive. What good is a retriever who will not go after the prey? A retriever needs something to retrieve. If you are a hunter and can use your dog to retrieve game, then GREAT! You have the ultimate appropriate outlet – what he was bred to do. If not, then give him something else to retrieve, like the toy duck Gauge is holding in the picture. Tennis balls, frisbees, and Kongs are also fun to retrieve. Combine that with something else Labs love – WATER – and you have an outlet your dog will love! You can even enter your dog in competitive retrieving events such as flyball or water retrieving.

    Tug of War is another great way to direct your dog’s prey drive. It’s unfortunate that this game has gotten such a bad rap from a lot of training myths out there because it is a lot of fun for you and your dog! Playing tug of war will not make your dog aggressive. They learn to play it on their own whether you “teach” them or not, and puppies will play the game together. You don’t have to “win” every time to show you’re dog you are the boss. Dogs understand that tug of war is a game. In play, dominant and submissive mean nothing. A more dominant dog will sometimes let the submissive one win to keep things interesting, whether this is wrestling or tug of war. The only purpose always winning will serve is to make your dog completely lose interest in the game. Would you want to play a game you never win? You still control when the game begins and ends because your dog will usually try to give the toy back to you to keep the game going, unless he’s tired of playing. If you’re done playing, just don’t grab it!

    Toys, like the duck Gauge is holding, are another good release. Dogs can pounce on them and shake them like they would do with actual prey. Some dogs will rip a stuffed toy to shreds. You can buy a toy from a yard sale for a quarter and let them have a blast shredding it. Just be sure to supervise them and throw the pieces away immediately so they don’t swallow any stuffing or even a squeaker! Pull off plastic parts like eyes and noses before giving it to them. Plastic bottles are fun to play with, too. Remove the cap and ring first, and supervise. Your dog can cut his gums on the lip once he’s chewed it down to a point, so be sure to throw it away before it gets too rough. Kong toys and the like are safe to give most dogs unsupervised, but most everything else should be for supervised play time.

    When the Dog Lives with Prey

    Can a high prey drive dog live with prey animals, such as cats, rabbits, and ferrets? If you are dilligent, they can. They should never be left alone together, but there are some ways to make it safe for your other pets. Keep in mind that while it is possible to teach your dog to leave other household pets alone, they will not translate that to include other animals of the same species outside of the household. A dog can live with a colony of cats and never bother them but still go after strange cats.

    Make sure your other pets always have an escape route and some place to hide where your dog cannot reach them. Never let them both out in the yard at the same time. The prey drive is usually triggered by movement. A cat who remains still has a better chance of survival than a cat who runs. Out in the open of the yard, the cat is likely to run and have far too much space to cover to escape.

    In addition to separation and escape routes, work on conditioning your dog to behave appropriately with the other pets. Reward your dog every time he is with the other pets and behaving appropriately. This means he is not stalking, staring, or trying to chase them. Ignoring is good. Give him treats, pets, and praise for peaceful coexistence. Also, work on theleave it command in case you need to tell him to back off the other pets. Always use caution when allowing your dog to interact with your other pets.

    Information on prey drive is based on ESB Studies conducted by Jaak Panskepp as cited in Animals in Translation by Temple Grandin. See the book or more information.

    Additional Resources:

    Dogs living with Cats

    When Dogs Kill

    Hunting Breeds and Behaviors

     

     

    (NOTE: From Two Dog Farms: We do not advocate the use of prong collars – in our experience, Asian dogs are typically too sensitive around the necks for such ‘tools’)

    MENU