Options for severely aggressive dogs

by Nicole Wilde
“Options for severely aggressive dogs”

This is a very interesting article to share which raises some particularly good points in relation to rescues and how any rescue is not simply a catch-all for dogs with severe behavioral issues – most rescues are not (as some people believe) sanctuaries with infinite resources (time, people, money, space) and there rarely is a mythical ranch/paradise where the dogs can run free for the rest of their lives.

We will always be willing to help, but please be realistic in your expectations and remember, the solution to your dog’s issues starts with you.

As an aside, we usually post behavioral tips and advice on our Alumni Page which you are more than welcome to join – it’s a great place for our fosters/adopters/supporters to share information and also candid pictures and stories about their Jindos – come and check it out!

Two Dog Farms Facebook Alumni Page

Crate training your puppy or adult dog

(From The Housebreaking Bible: http://thehousebreakingbible.com/training/crate-training.htm)

Most dog trainers, veterinarians and other pet professionals agree that crate training is, hands-down, the most effective way to housebreak your dog if you’re teaching him to relieve himself outside. It is can also be a helpful part of an indoor potty training program for dogs who will be papertrained or litter box trained.

Crate training is a method of teaching your puppy to hold his bladder and bowels by confining him in a cage or airline kennel, also known as a crate, when he is unsupervised. This allows you to prevent him from having accidents by taking advantage of his natural instinct to avoid soiling where he sleeps.

Crate training is a good choice for just about any dog owner. The only people who shouldn’t choose this method are those that have very young puppies and are away from home all day or those that have unusually long work hours and can’t come home during the day to let the dog potty on a reasonable schedule. Occasionally, certain dogs will panic in the crate, even after the proper steps are taken to acclimate the dog to the crate (this is very rare). Many dogs who experience serious anxiety in the crate can be helped by using a Thundershirt, but if your dog still experiences serious stress while in the crate, he is likely not a good candidate for crate training and should be trained using another method like umbilical cord training or dog door training, if possible.

Many dog owners are resistant to crate training because they think it seems mean or because they haven’t been exposed to the method before. They also worry that Fido might think he’s being punished or “put in jail” when he’s in his crate. However, most dogs respond very well to this type of training, since they have a “denning instinct” that causes them to feel secure in small spaces and makes them want to keep their sleeping area or “den” clean. Most of us have witnessed this instinct in our own dogs. Have you seen your dog curl up under a table or desk when he wants to take a nap or when he thinks he’s in trouble? He’ll naturally be drawn to a cozy, sheltered place when he wants to feel secure, so crate training is a great option for most dogs.

Dogs typically acclimate well to spending time in the crate if they’re introduced to it properly and they’re kept on a reasonable schedule. Your puppy should be in his crate overnight, when you’re away from the house and when you’re at home but unable to supervise him. If you work full time, this can translate into a lot of time in a crate. If you have to be away from the house for a full work day, you’ll need to make an extra effort to be sure that your dog is on a reasonable potty schedule and has sufficient activity and attention. You’ll need to be sure to spend plenty of time with your dog when you’re at home with him in the mornings and evenings, and we strongly recommend that you recruit a neighbor or hire a dog walker or pet sitter to get your puppy out for his potty trips during the day. Of course, the person helping you out should know where your dog’s potty area is, how to get him in and out of the crate, when he needs food or water and that he needs to be supervised when out of his crate. Be sure your helper knows how to contact you if there are any problems.

If a housebreaking helper isn’t an option, you may also choose to have a safe outdoor area where your dog can spend the day, weather permitting. A safely fenced yard or outdoor dog run will do the trick, as long as you’ve confirmed that your dog is unable to escape and there are no safety hazards. If you choose this option, your dog can go potty as often as he needs to during the day, but, remember, he’s had a long, boring day outside. If your dog is going to spend his days alone, you need to increase the exercise, playtime and attention he gets in the morning and evening and on weekends when you’re at home. Neglecting to do this will lead to a bored dog with an energy overload, which usually translates to behavior problems.

Getting Started
First, you’ll need to get a crate (and a dog!). Your crate should be be just large enough for your dog to stand up, turn around and lie down. This will be quite a small space, but if you give your dog more, he’ll use one half of his crate as a bathroom and the other half as a bedroom, which will make crate training him impossible. His crate should be a tiny studio apartment for him to snooze in, not a multi-room house for him to throw parties in! If you haven’t yet purchased a crate and aren’t quite sure what to buy, see our “Choosing the Right Crate for Your Dog” article.

The first step of crate training your puppy is acclimating him to the crate. Some dogs end up loving the crate, others end up just tolerating it. Although you should try your best to get him to love it, tolerating it is okay, too, so don’t worry if he doesn’t seem thrilled when it’s time to go in. If your dog is not already comfortable in a crate, read the article “Acclimating Fido To His Crate” before beginning your crate training program.

Sometimes you’ll get lucky and adopt a dog who’s already used to spending time in the crate or you’ll get your puppy from a breeder who’s already gotten him used to the crate. If so, congratulations… you can skip the first step of crate training. Sometimes, if you’re not so lucky and you got a dog from a pet store or a dirty kennel, you’ll find that he thinks the crate is his sleeping area AND his potty area, since he’s been forced to to potty in his “den” and now ignores his instinct to be clean. If this is the case, you’ll have to do some extra work to teach your dog not to have accidents in his crate before you can successfully crate train him.

Crate Training Basics
Crate training is a process that involves confinement, supervision and proper scheduling. Some people mistakenly think that they can train Fido by just shoving him in the crate and leaving him in there most of the time. That’s not crate training, it’s cruelty. Dogs that are crate trained must be properly introduced to the crate, must have sufficient opportunities to get out to go potty, must be given food and water on a regular schedule, must get a reasonable amount of exercise and must spend plenty of time each day with their owners playing, getting affection and just hangin’ out.
When you are crate training your dog, he can be in only 3 places. 1. He can be in his crate. 2. He can be in a safe area where he’s allowed to go potty (fenced yard, dog run, indoor potty area). 3. He can be in the house under your direct supervision.

That’s it. To avoid accidents during the early phases of crate training, your dog should have absolutely no unsupervised free time in the house. Not a moment. None. Zero. Nada. Remember, if he has an accident and you’re not there to catch and correct him, he learns that he gets relief from pottying on the floor in the house, so he’s likely to do it again. After all, it feels just as good to go in the wrong place as it does in the right place if nobody’s there to teach him the difference.

You must remember to supervise your dog at all times when he’s out of the crate, as outlined in Commandment #7. Just being in the room with him is NOT sufficient supervision. You may want to use “umbilical cord training” and/or the “puppy airlift” in conjunction with your crate training program, since it allows you to easily keep track of what your puppy’s up to.

Scheduling Potty Trips
When your dog is being crate trained, keeping him on a good schedule is critical. He should be taken our regularly and given the chance to eliminate in his potty area. To get an idea of how frequently he’ll need a potty trip, refer to the chart below. Keep in mind that these are general guidelines, and you may find that Fido needs to be taken out more or less frequently.
6-12 weeks 12-16 weeks 4-5 months 6-7 months 8-11 months 12 months and older
daytime 1 hour 2 hours 3 hours 4 hours 5-6 hours 8 hours
nighttime* 3-4 hours 4-8 hours 8 hours 8 hours 8 hours 8-10 hours
*nighttime hours assume that the puppy or dog was not fed or watered 3 hours before bed

You should be sure to take your puppy directly to his potty area each time you take him out of his crate, even if he’s been in only for a short period. You should also take him out immediately after he eats, drinks, naps or plays. And remember to play it safe… even if your dog hasn’t engaged in any of these activities and it’s not time for him to go out at his regular interval, if you notice any signs that he may need to do his thing, get him to his designated potty area as soon as possible.

When you take your dog to his potty area, remember not to stay there endlessly, waiting for something to happen. You’ll be more successful in your housebreaking if you get your puppy into the habit of going potty promptly when he gets to the right spot. The way to do this is to stay in his potty area briefly to see if he has to go. Wait for about 2 minutes, either standing still or walking back and forth in a small area if your dog seems to need to move around a bit to “get things moving”. If he empties out within that period of time, praise him and play with him or take him for a walk as a reward for doing the right thing. If he doesn’t go within that period, take him back inside or away from his indoor potty area (supervise him carefully to prevent accidents) or put him back in his crate, then wait for a bit and give it another try.

The length of time to wait before trying again depends on your’s age and how long it’s been since he last emptied out. For young puppies or dogs who haven’t emptied out for a suspiciously long time, you might wait only 5-10 minutes before trying again, for older dogs or dogs who have had a recent successful potty trip, you might wait an hour or more.

Mission Accomplished!
Yes, there’s a payoff for all this hard work. If your dog’s had no accidents in the house or the crate for at least two months and he’s at least a year old (or if he’s younger and you’re really brave!), you’re ready to move on. Read “Teaching Fido to Spend the Night out of his Crate” and “Fido’s Crate Trained… Now What?” to learn how to allow your good dog more freedom in the house.

Acclimating your dog to his crate

(From The Housebreaking Bible: http://thehousebreakingbible.com/training/crate-acclimation.htm)

Okay, so we know you’ll love Fido’s crate – but will he? You’ll love it because it makes his housebreaking easier, it keeps him from eating all your shoes when he’s left alone, and it can give you a break from him when he’s drivin’ you nuts. But what about your dog’s feelings about his crate? I know you’ve heard from your friends, from the folks at the pet store, and maybe even from ME that dogs love their crates because of their natural denning instinct, but you may be about to discover that nobody told your puppy that! Some dogs are afraid of the crate, some find confinement frustrating and stressful, and some just don’t want to be left alone anytime, anyplace… including the crate. If it seems that your dog didn’t get the “denning instinct” memo, there’s plenty you can do to make him feel better about being left in his crate.
If you don’t have a crate yet, read our “Choosing the Right Crate for Your Dog” article for information about the various options. Amazon.com offers free shipping on many of their dog crates. Click on this link and look for “Free Super Saver Shipping” to find the right crate for your puppy.
Start your dog’s housebreaking program on a weekend or at a time when you have a light schedule for a few days. This will allow you to introduce the crate gradually before needing to shut him in for any extended period of time. We want your puppy to have a positive association with his crate, so don’t just shove him in there and close the door to see what happens.
If your dog isn’t already familiar with the crate, you’re likely to encounter one of two common problems. Your dog may be afraid of the crate and think that it’s too scary to approach or enter; or he may be willing to go into the crate, but then not like being closed inside and left alone. Both issues can be resolved using the steps below, but you’ll need to work more slowly and carefully with a scared or nervous dog.
During training, you’re likely to find that your dog whines, barks or cries when closed in the crate. You may also find that he scratches or digs in an effort to get out of the crate or bites at the crate door. These issues can arise even if you’re taking the proper steps to acclimate Fido to the crate. These problems can usually be turned around pretty quickly, so don’t worry if he acts up a bit in his crate during the initial training period.
SAFETY NOTE: Although it’s very rare, there are dogs who cannot be crate trained because they panic in the crate. Sometimes panicky pups can be calmed by wearing a Thundershirt when they go in the crate – but if your dog hurts himself in any way trying to escape from the crate, if he successfully escapes a sturdy crate, or if you have any other reason to believe that your dog is excessively stressed by the training, discontinue using the crate immediately unless you have the personal guidance of an experienced dog trainer. Please remember that your dog must never wear a collar of any kind when confined to a crate, and be sure your crate is assembled properly and latched securely before leaving your dog unattended.

Fido’s First Date with His Crate

We want your dog’s first exposure to his crate to be a nice, happy experience. If he hears the crate banging around or sees you carrying it, he may just think it’s a big, scary monster, so when you assemble your puppy’s crate, do so without him in the room and, if possible, do it in the area where you plan for the crate to be during your dog’s training period.
We don’t want your dog to encounter any unpleasant surprises while he’s getting to know his new crate. In the early phases of acclimating him to his crate, leave the crate door off or prop it open with a heavy object so it doesn’t suddenly close or bump into your puppy. Also, place the crate on a surface where it won’t slide and frighten him as he’s getting in. If you have a wire crate, lay a piece of cardboard under the plastic or metal pan to keep it from making noise against the wire beneath it.
We want Fido’s crate to feel like home, so put something in his crate to make it comfy, like a blanket, a dog bed or a crate pad. He can also have toys or safe chew bones so he has something to keep him occupied while he’s in there. If Fido will be in his crate in your bedroom overnight or if he’ll be crated near you at times when you’re hanging around the house, you may want to avoid putting squeak toys in there with him, or he’ll drive you nuts! Unless your vet recommends otherwise, Fido shouldn’t have water in his crate; he’ll not only have a full bladder, he’ll splash around and make a mess. It can be difficult to assess whether he might have had an accident in his crate if he’s had a big splish-splash party in his water bowl and everything’s soaking wet.
SAFETY NOTE: Bedding, toys and bones are most likely safe to leave alone with your dog, but any of them can be a choking hazard if Fido is the type to rip, tear and swallow objects. The vast majority of dogs will do just fine with these objects, but take Fido’s destructive tendencies into account when deciding what can be left in his crate. If in doubt, leave it out.
Some dogs, due to health issues, hot weather or extended periods in the crate, may need to have water in the crate. A water bottle (available in pet stores) is preferable to a bowl, since it will help keep your dog from spilling all his water instead of drinking it. Another good option is a crate water bowl that can be attached to the front of the crate, making it harder to spill. If you’re unsure about whether your circumstances require water to be left in the crate, please consult your veterinarian.
Once your puppy’s crate is nice and cozy, it’s time to see what he thinks. Have him come into the room and hang out for a few minutes. See if he sniffs around or wanders in. Don’t try to force him toward or into the crate in any way! Click one of the links below to choose a training method based on your dog’s initial response and what you know about his basic personality.

If Fido’s a young puppy or a lazy, relaxed kinda guy, continue on to Acclimation Method #1

If you’ve got plenty of time for training or if Fido seems scared of the crate, continue on to Acclimation Method #2

If your dog is too scared of the crate to be lured in with treats, continue on to Acclimation Method #3

If your dog isn’t fearful, continue on to Acclimation Method #4

If your schedule forces you to leave your dog closed in his crate on Day One, continue on to Acclimation Method #5

Choosing the right crate for your dog

(From The Housebreaking Bible: http://thehousebreakingbible.com/training/crate-choices.htm)

Decisions, decisions. You’ve made the wise choice to crate train your dog, but now you have to figure out what kind of crate to buy and how big it should be. Buying the wrong crate can mess up your training program, so here are some guidelines to keep in mind when you’re at the pet store or online purchasing your dog’s crate.
The biggest mistake dog owners make when choosing a crate is getting one that’s way too big. For housebreaking purposes, your dog’s crate should be just big enough for him to stand up, turn around and lie down in. This will help your housebreaking program, since your puppy has a natural tendency to want to avoid soiling his sleeping area. If you get a crate that’s too big, he’ll use one half as a bedroom and the other half as a bathroom. Not good.
There are 5 basic crate types to choose from: wire crates, plastic crates, soft-sided crates, heavy-duty crates and cute crates. There are advantages and disadvantages to each, which we’ll discuss here to help you choose what’s best for you and your dog.

Crates and supplies

WIRE CRATES
PROS:
Good for dogs that get hot easily, due to either living in a hot climate or having a heavy coat
With some models, you can buy a divider to section off the crate, so Fido’s area in the crate starts out small and gets bigger as he grows
Many wire crates fold flat for carrying or storage
Removable floor tray is easy to clean
CONS:
Tend to be noisier than plastic crates when Fido moves around, but this can usually be resolved by placing a thick piece of cardboard between the floor tray and the wire bottom of the crate
Some escape-artist dogs find that it’s easier to break out of wire crates
Large sizes can be heavy and difficult to move
Some dogs will pee and poo through the wire onto the floor outside so they’re still in a comfy, clean crate (seriously!)
Not too attractive to have around the house

PLASTIC CRATES
PROS:
Good for dogs who like cozy spaces and tend to sleep in corners or under tables
Can be used for airline travel – if your dog is acclimated to this type of crate, flying with him will be easier
More difficult for escape artists to get out of; if your dog is good at breaking out of crates, you may need to get him a plastic crate that’s one size too big for him to prevent him from escaping
Available in different colors
Top half of crate comes off and can be stacked inside bottom half for storage
CONS:
Your puppy might get hot in there, since there isn’t as much air circulation
Some dogs like to be able to see what’s going on around them and may get frustrated that they can’t see out the sides
You may have to break out the hose or climb inside the thing to clean it out if your dog has a tragic diarrhea incident in it
Not too attractive to have around the house

SOFT-SIDED CRATES
PROS:
Very lightweight and portable
Good for light use with small, non-destructive dogs
Good for car travel, camping, picnics, etc.
Very easy to store when folded
CONS:
May be difficult to clean in the event of a major potty accident
Destructive dogs can eat their way out
Clever dogs may figure out how to unzip and open the door panel

HEAVY-DUTY CRATES
PROS:
Can contain most destructive or escape-artist dogs
Some are approved for airline travel – if your puppy is acclimated to this type of crate, flying with him will be easier
CONS:
Expensive (but worth it if you compare it to the cost of replacing less sturdy crates after your escape artist gets out of them or your destructive dog destroys them!)
Not super attractive… but your dog will sure look tough hangin’ out in one of these things!

CUTE CRATES
PROS:
Finished wood or rattan and wire crates look great around the house
Some can be used as furniture to replace an end or side table, so you won’t need extra space in the house for your crate
CONS:
Can’t be used for destructive dogs, as they can chew the wood or rattan
If crate has a finished wood floor, it can be damaged if your dog has an accident in his crate

In Conclusion
If you’re still unsure as to which kind of crate to buy, don’t let it stop you from getting one. Remember, just about any crate is better than no crate at all!
Another little crate-buying tip for you budget-minded types: Most people use their crates only during the early training period with their dogs. That means you can always find used crates on eBay or in the classifieds – and they’re usually dirt cheap! If you choose to get a secondhand crate, just be sure to clean and disinfect it thoroughly before using it.
Once you’ve got a crate for your dog, you’re ready for the first step of crate training, Acclimating Fido to His Crate.

Dogs and door issues

http://positively.com/dog-behavior/nuisance-behaviors/door-issues/

(Victoria Stilwell – Positively)

The door is the epicenter of some common nuisance behaviors in dogs, particularly door dashing and unwanted barking. With positive training and a little patience, these are both behaviors that can be improved and potentially eliminated.

Door Dashing
Door dashing is a very common behavior that can have obvious dangerous consequences. The first step in stopping this behavior is to find out why your dog wants to run away in the first place.

Why Do Dogs Door Dash?
Many dogs become bored in their home environment and are stimulated by the opportunity and excitement they feel when they make their escape.
Dogs that don’t get a lot of opportunity to go outside may door-dash to get a taste of freedom, while others with high prey drive and a deep-rooted instinct to run and chase are driven by their desire to hunt.
Most domestic dogs live in a sensory deprived environment, so the promise of fun and excitement outside the home is too much for them to ignore – escaping makes them feel good.
How to Stop Your Dog From Door-Dashing
Start by teaching valuable impulse control. Dogs are born with little self-control and it is up to us to teach them ‘manners’ so they can live more successfully in a domestic environment.
Teach your dog to ‘stay’ by putting your hand up and holding it still until you give the signal that it is ok to move, followed by a food or toy reward for complying.
Once you have your dog’s focus, gradually lengthen the time that your hand is still until your dog can stay in place for a minute.
Ask him to stay and take a step back. If he breaks his stay, lure him back to his original waiting place and repeat the exercise.
Repeat until you can walk about ten feet away from him without him following you. You are now ready to move to the door.
Repeat the exercise by the front door with your dog staying a good distance away from the door.
Put your hand on the door and rattle the door handle. This is a physical and auditory cue that the door is about to be opened, which might trigger your dog to move towards the door. Lure your dog back to his place until you can rattle the door handle without him moving.
For each exercise, go back and treat him for staying in one place. This means you are continually reinforcing him for staying still.
If your dog is complying, then you can move onto the next level. Open the door a tiny crack, shut it again and go back to your dog to reinforce the stay with a treat. Continue until you have the door wide open with your dog staying still.
During this training process your dog will be problem solving – working out what he has to do to get a reward.

So much traditional training is centered on thinking for the dog that people forget how vital it is to allow the dog to think for himself with your guidance. Problem solving is extremely important and provides valuable mental stimulation that motivates and keeps the dog’s mind active and fit.
The next stage is to add triggers that signal someone is at the door and a door dashing opportunity is imminent. Ring the doorbell yourself or having a family member outside do it for you. It is one thing for your dog to sit and wait by a door during a calm training session, but quite another to use self-control after the doorbell has rung.
Be patient because your dog is likely to react to the trigger of the bell. Calmly lead him back to his place and repeat until he no longer moves when he hears the bell. Open the door to reveal that no one is outside.
Repeat the exercise with family members coming through the door, guests and then strangers, as long as your dog is sociable and safe around new people.
This teaching exercise might take time. Don’t rush it and be patient, because you will see success. Remember that every dog is unique and learns at a different pace.
Barking at the Doorbell
Another common problem between dogs and the door is excessive barking, particularly when the doorbell rings. The formula for solving this problem is similar to the protocol above for door dashing.
The key is to desensitize your dog to the sound of the doorbell:
Sit somewhere near your front door and ask a friend or neighbor to ring the doorbell. When it rings, completely ignore the doorbell as well as your dog’s barking. Do not stand up, speak, or open the door.
Wait till your dog is completely silent before getting up to open the door.
Allow your dog to greet your guest as his reward.
Repeat this process until your dog becomes desensitized to the sound of the doorbell. This may take multiple 10-15 minute sessions.
Be patient! Some dogs learn more quickly than others.
– See more at: http://positively.com/dog-behavior/nuisance-behaviors/door-issues/#sthash.Fu1UMtTz.dpuf