Predatory behavior

http://positively.com/dog-behavior/aggression/predatory-behavior/

(Victoria Stilwell – Positively)

Unlike other manifestations of aggressive type behavior, predatory behavior is not emotionally driven and is largely influenced by genetics. While aggression serves to increase distance, predatory behavior serves to decrease distance as quickly as possible.

Many domestic dogs are skilled hunters and have been bred to exhibit certain parts of the ‘predatory sequence.’ Sighthounds such as the Greyhound and Saluki are skilled chasers, while Labradors and Weimeraners are adept at flushing and retrieving birds and other small prey animals. Terriers were originally bred to find, chase and kill vermin, such as mice and rats.

The full predatory sequence is:

1. Eye
2. Orient
3. Stalk
4. Chase
5. Grab/bite
6. Kill/bite
7. Dissect
8. Consume

Some dogs find it reinforcing to chase other animals or moving objects as it fulfills an instinctive need, but this is only the beginning of the predatory sequence. Humans have bred the desire to bite and kill out of the domestic dog unless it is specifically trained to do so, but occasionally a deeper instinct takes over.

Does my dog have a high prey drive?

• Although many dogs enjoy shaking and disemboweling stuffed toys, this does not usually translate to live animals or people.
• Herding breeds are adept at eyeing, stalking, and chasing their ‘prey,’ but they seldom attack and kill the animals they are herding.
• Dogs that are motivated by the chase, grab, bite, and kill part of the sequence can be very dangerous to live with, especially around small animals and children.

What is the difference between high ‘chase’ drive and ‘prey’ drive?

• Many dogs like chasing things like toys, squirrels or people, but are motivated more by the thrill of the chase than actually catching the thing they are chasing.
• Even though these dogs have ‘chase’ drive, they may not necessarily have high prey drive.
• Dogs that are highly prey driven are usually motivated by the thrill of the chase and the grab, bite and sometimes kill sequence.

What should I do if my dog has high prey drive?

• Some dogs might be driven to chase and maybe catch squirrels or birds. This is usually alright if you are able to control the behavior.
• If your dog has bitten a child or killed a small animal, it is vital to keep her safely confined in your home or yard/garden area and leashed at all times when in public.
• If you walk your high chase or prey drive dog off leash, do so in a quiet area where there are no children or other dogs. Teach your dog a reliable recall.
• Be aware that electric fences do not safely confine any dog and that many dogs run through these ‘fences’ even when wearing their shock collars.
• A solid fence offers more protection than an electric fence and also prevents people and other animals wandering onto your property.
• Some dogs with high prey drive excel at sports where they can run and chase in a positive environment. Flyball, agility and treibball provide high drive dogs with a physical outlet that allows them to indulge in their favorite pastime but in a controlled way. These sports also teach dogs to listen to people even when in chase or prey mode.

– See more at: http://positively.com/dog-behavior/aggression/predatory-behavior/#sthash.NLaH3Ril.dpuf

Dog – dog aggression

http://positively.com/dog-behavior/aggression/dog-dog-aggression/

(Victoria Stilwell – Positively)

Dog-to-dog aggression is a common occurrence and one that causes extreme stress for dogs and owners. Multi-dog households frequently experience some kind of ‘sibling’ rivalry with short squabbles and disagreements, but these are usually mild and happen infrequently enough to maintain a comfort level that allows for everyone to live safely and peacefully.

If violence between dogs occurs regularly and one or more of the dogs are being hurt, then separation and constant environmental management is one of the most effective ways to deal with the problem. In severe cases, rehoming should be considered. Some dogs do not do well in multi-dog households and are happiest being the only dog in a home. This takes stress off all family members and allows for more harmonious living.

Why are some dogs dog-aggressive?
Dog to dog aggression occurs because a dog is either unsocialized and uncomfortable around other dogs, or has had a traumatic experience which causes her to be afraid of another dog’s presence. Some dogs might be more protective of things they deem valuable for their safety, comfort and survival such as food, locations, toys and other objects, people and territory. This leads to active aggressive display in order to make whatever threatens that safety go away.

Should I punish a dog aggressive dog?
Avoid punishing, bullying or intimidating a dog that is showing aggression.

If a dog on a leash aggresses towards another dog walking by and receives hard punishment in the form of jerking, hitting, kicking or restraining, the dog not only learns to fear the person punishing them but also sees the other dog’s presence as a trigger for that punishment, which will make the dog even more insecure and likely to aggress again the next time another dog walks by.

If the dog aggressive dog is taught that good things happen to her when she sees another dog and is taught a different active behavior from aggressing, she then begins to build up positive feelings to any approaching dog and feels less need to aggress.

Read more about leash aggression.

How can I reintroduce a dog to other dogs safely?
Once a dog feels more comfortable walking past other dogs, then gentle introductions can be made. This is best done with a very calm dog that is good at giving signals that pacify and demonstrate low threat.

Face-to-face greetings are not recommended immediately, but simply experiencing positive things in the other dog’s presence such as walking or other activities at a comfortable distance can help build a positive association.

Parallel walking, following the calm dog and sniffing the behind before a facial greeting can have real benefits, but this is better done under the supervision of a qualified positive trainer to guide initial interactions.

Can I take my dog aggressive dog to the dog park?
Dog parks are not recommended for dog aggressive dogs or dogs that play too roughly, as smaller spaces with no place to run, can be overwhelming and cause a bad reaction. Just as some people are overwhelmed being in a crowd, so too are dogs and solitary walks or walking with a small group contributes to a much happier dog and safer interactions.

Setting Realistic Expectations
We have high expectations for our dogs and in an ideal world would like them to be comfortable around every dog they meet, but these are expectations that we ourselves find hard to follow. We do not want to greet everyone we meet in the street or have strangers come into our space uninvited, and neither do our dogs.

Keep an eye on body language and allow your dog to pick and choose which dogs he or she wants to socialize with. Some dogs are happier with their own company or the company of one or two other dogs so keeping that dog on a relaxed leash in a public place is key to giving her confidence and keeping her and other dogs around her safe.

– See more at: http://positively.com/dog-behavior/aggression/dog-dog-aggression/#sthash.McSJzkpN.dpuf

Dog – human aggression

http://positively.com/dog-behavior/aggression/dog-human-aggression/

(Victoria Stilwell – Positively)

Dog-to-human aggression can be unpredictable and dangerous, especially when there is an extensive history of aggressive behavior. Dog bites account for a large number of hospital admissions each year and cost insurance companies millions in claims. While most dogs live in harmony with their families, dogs of all breeds and breed mixes have the capacity to bite.

Contrary to a frequently-repeated myth, bites seldom occur ‘out of the blue’ and are usually the result of a perfect storm of environment and circumstance.

Most dogs would rather practice avoidance than bite, but some will resort to biting if they feel threatened and the threat does not retreat even when a subtle or overt warning has been given.

Why are dogs aggressive towards people?
Even though dogs have become valued members of the family, many of them do nothing more than lie on the couch all day. Fewer dogs with jobs means more bored animals who suffer stress and anxiety as a result. Stress and anxiety are leading causes of aggressive behavior.

Most dogs receive no formal training, but of those that are taken to class and are trained using punitive, out-dated methods, an increase in negative behavior is often the result.

A 2009 study in the Journal of Applied Animal Behavior concludes that confrontational training methods practiced by many trainers and handlers in the United States and Britain are a contributing factor to dog bites. According to the study’s lead author, Meghan Herron, DVM, “Many confrontational training methods, whether staring down dogs, striking them, or intimidating them with physical manipulation such as alpha rolls [holding dogs on their back], do little to correct improper behavior and can elicit aggressive responses.”

The Effect of Puppy Mills & Irresponsible Breeders
Other contributing factors to the dog bite problem include poor breeding practices that are utilized by the puppy mill industry and back yard breeders. Puppy farmers care little for the dogs they breed as long as they make money, churning out puppies with no attempt to breed for good temperament or to socialize them with humans and other animals. Lack of socialization causes fear and insecurity, which is a leading cause of aggressive behavior.

Irresponsible people who use their large breed dogs for protection and intimidation without adequately socializing them are responsible for the greatest number of incidences. Neglect, abuse, and punitive handling are also leading causes of dog bites.

Genetics & Medical Issues Can Cause Aggression
Some dogs are aggressive towards people even when they have been raised properly and trained appropriately. The behavior can be exacerbated by poor health or pain somewhere in the body.

Genetics is sometimes a contributing factor as well as neurological difficulties that cause emotional instability. Some dogs are highly sensitive and react very quickly, generalizing their fear from one person to all people.

What should I do if my dog has bitten someone?
If your dog is reactive and/or aggressive towards people or has bitten a person, the first thing to do is effective management. Manage your dog’s environment to keep people safe.

• If you are having guests over, keep the dog contained in either a locked room or behind a baby gate.
• Tell your guests not to approach.
• If your dog is a low bite risk and would rather practice avoidance than bite, give him a safe place to go to when he needs it, and tell people to ignore him. Guests can take pressure off your dog by not approaching or trying to have any physical contact, even if he comes over to them.
• If he relaxes in their presence, some contact might be appropriate, but nervous dogs do not always like being touched and a friendly ‘hello’ with no physical contact will suffice.
• Pay particular attention to children and do not let them chase, tease or touch the dog. Don’t let them run around or scream, as this can cause fear in your dog, or might illicit his chase instinct. Learn more about dog and child safety.

How can I encourage my dog to accept people coming into my home?
Some dogs will become more accepting of people if good things always come from them such as toys or food.

• Throwing food in front of your dog allows him to see where the food is coming from while still keeping distance – the same can be done with a toy.
• If your dog is more accepting, then a treat from the hand might work. Always be aware of his comfort levels and watch for signals that he might be uncomfortable.

Is there a cure for aggressive behavior?
Dog to human aggression is very serious, and poses a liability for dog owners and the general public. Effectively managing your dog is crucial, and hiring a qualified, humane trainer will go a long way in helping to modify the behavior.

There is no ‘cure’ for aggression. Training can help you better predict behavior in certain situations but behavior is never guaranteed in dogs, just like in humans, because moods and environmental factors play a large part and change daily.

That being said, positive training can change the way your dog perceives what threatens or scares him and make him more confident around new people.

– See more at: http://positively.com/dog-behavior/aggression/dog-human-aggression/#sthash.vMA0HegL.dpuf

Territorial aggression

http://positively.com/dog-behavior/aggression/territorial-aggression/

(Victoria Stilwell – Positively)

It is very common for dogs to instinctively guard resources that are important to them including food, toys, beds and people. ‘Territorial aggression’ addresses a similar need, but on a much larger scale, and often occurs along boundaries of territory that the dog lives in, such as a yard or home. Dogs that are territorial often exhibit warning, defensive and offensive behaviors such as barking, running fence lines or boundaries, charging and sometimes biting whoever or whatever ‘invades’ the dog’s perceived territory.

Dogs that are territorially aggressive are often labeled as dominant, but like resource guarders, these dogs are most often insecure, controlling who has access in order to be safe and survive. Any unwanted visitor on the dog’s territory is seen as a threat to that safety.

Should I Train My Territorially Aggressive Dog Myself?
If your dog is aggressively protecting objects, people or territory, it is crucial to utilize the help of a qualified positive trainer. A trainer will teach your dog how to cope better in these situations, as well as use humane methods to stop negative behavior. They will quickly identify your dog’s triggers and help build his confidence so he no longer feels the need to guard and protect.

 
A positive trainer will also:

• Work on desensitizing your dog to triggers that set off the aggressive response, whether those triggers are a dog, human, or other stimulus approaching your dog’s environment.
• Give you workable management strategies to ensure your dog is unable to practice the negative behavior again in the environment and other situations.
• Develop a teaching plan that encourages your dog to listen to you and respond to your cues.
• Teach valuable impulse control skills to modify reactivity.
• Teach your dog not to run boundaries. Dogs that are left outside often indulge in fence running behavior that is positively reinforcing for them.
• Help your dog accept the approach of people or other dogs onto his territory and relax in an invited person or dog’s presence.
• Give tips on keeping your dog and guests that come onto your property or into your home safe at all times.

Bottom Line
A dog that is territorially aggressive can be very dangerous and a huge liability for homeowners. If the behavior goes unchecked it is likely to increase in severity putting any visitor at risk. The best course of action is to properly manage your dog’s environment so he can no longer practice the behavior, while increasing his confidence around people or other dogs on and off his territory.

– See more at: http://positively.com/dog-behavior/aggression/territorial-aggression/#sthash.jX1leooH.dpuf

Fear aggression

http://positively.com/dog-behavior/aggression/fear-aggression/

(Victoria Stilwell – Positively)

When a dog feels threatened by something, the first and safest option for the dog is to run away from the threat. This is called the ‘flight response.’ If the dog is unable to put sufficient distance between himself and the threat, the only other options left are to either submit in the hope the threat goes away, or fight – the ‘fight response.’

Why do dogs become fear aggressive?
The root of most aggressive behavior is fear. Combine fear with a situation where a dog has not been raised and trained humanely and the result is often a disastrous cocktail of fear aggression. This is frequently made even worse by owners and trainers who employ punishment-based techniques on the fear aggressive dog. Another common root cause of fear aggression is a lack of appropriate socialization during the dog’s development. If a dog has not received adequate socialization, she will find it hard to cope with new things she encounters in her environment such as other dogs, animals or people.

How do I know if my dog is fear aggressive?

• Dogs that are fear aggressive will often adopt body postures that signal fear while retreating, such as cowering, lip licking and baring teeth.
• If your dog is cornered or has nowhere to run, she might growl, lunge, snap or bite in an attempt to get the threat to move away.
• Dogs with fear aggression might retreat if someone approaches them but can then turn and nip at the person as they walk away.
• Fearful dogs often inflict shallow, rapid bites designed to remove the threat rather than doing serious physical harm.

Can I cure my fear aggressive dog?
It is important to note that while the prognosis is good for many fear aggressive dogs there is no ‘cure’ for aggression. Behavior can never be guaranteed in people or in animals because there are too many outside factors influencing behavior, mood and emotion. Just like people, dogs can simply have a bad day! While there is no ‘cure’ for fear aggression, there are many positive things you can do to help manage the problem and get your dog to a place where she can exist in harmony within an environment which she previously found scary.

• Contact a qualified humane positive trainer to work with you and your dog using humane desensitization techniques. These will give your dog more confidence to cope with her fear.
• Find what triggers a reaction from your dog.
• When you have identified the trigger, put your dog in the position where she does not have to experience the trigger. Less rehearsal of aggressive behavior means there is more of a chance the behavior begins to decline.
• Try and make your environment as predictable as possible. Fear aggressive dogs do not like surprises so keep your dog’s surroundings as calm as possible until she is more confident and able to deal with novelty.

Manage Fear Aggression With ‘Rituals of Behavior’
Set up ‘rituals of behavior.’ These are a series of actions and behaviors your dog can practice any time she is in a situation that might make her uncomfortable. For example, if your dog fears guests coming into your home, have a ritual you can all follow any time someone new comes over. When the doorbell rings and a guest is at the door, do the following:

• Get your dog’s leash and take her outside so she can see the guest standing there.
• Have your guest stand with a plastic bag that you have previously placed by the front door. The bag should contain your dog’s favorite chew, toy or bone.
• Go for a short walk down the road with your dog and the guest but at no time should the guest attempt to engage with your dog
• Come back inside your home and take your dog through some action cues like sit or down as your guest comes in.
• Have your guest take the chew, toy or treat out and place it on the floor a safe distance away from your dog who must still be on leash if there is any likelihood she will aggress.
• Let your dog chew on the treat or toy.
• Chat with your guest while your dog is chewing and when it is appropriate take your dog to a safe zone for some quiet time. The safe zone should be in a separate room behind a baby gate or in the dog’s crate with the door closed.
• Practice this ritual with friends and neighbors that are willing to help and your dog will soon associate the bell ringing and a guest entering with good things.
• Once your dog is no longer fearful you can start having guests come into the home without having to take your dog outside. A guest can still enter with the bag in her hand but this will make the greeting ritual less time consuming.
• Tell your guests to give your dog space and limited attention.

You can make up any ritual as long as it is something your dog enjoys. The secret to success with this one is to keep your dog thinking and working, which will keep her below her stress threshold, and give her space, while also keeping guests safe.

Bottom Line
Though fear aggression is a serious issue which can take a considerable amount of time and effort to address, it is possible to manage the behavior. Be sure to avoid punishment-based training techniques, and instead help your dog become more confident and secure using the power of positive training and techniques such as effective ‘rituals of behavior.’

– See more at: http://positively.com/dog-behavior/aggression/fear-aggression/#sthash.fPpXWFDY.dpuf

Leash aggression

http://positively.com/dog-behavior/aggression/leash-aggression/
(Victoria Stilwell – Positively)

Leash lunging, leash reactivity and leash aggression are all behaviors that are caused by a dog feeling restrained, frustrated and uncomfortable in a social situation while attached to a leash. In normal circumstances, an unleashed dog would be able to put sufficient distance between himself and a fear source. But if the same dog is leashed and unable to increase that distance, he will react or behave defensively in the hope that the fear source will go away.

If your dog’s behavior is reinforced by success (meaning distance has been increased), he is likely to react in the same manner again when faced with a similar stimulus.

Walking a dog that lunges and aggresses on leash is not a pleasant experience. The anticipation of a problem tends to cause human tension, which is transmitted down the leash to the dog, effectively making the lunging behavior worse. Dog and owner are then locked in a vicious cycle of tension and leash lunging that becomes hard to change.

How Do I Train My Leash Reactive Dog?
The first step to stopping your dog lunging is first identifying the cause of his discomfort, and then working to desensitize him to the stimulus that makes him uncomfortable. At the same time, you will be conditioning him to see that the stimulus is no longer cause for concern.

If you have a dog that is social, and who lunges on a lead because he is frustrated and just wants to get to the stimulus, you have to teach him that lunging achieves nothing, while calm behavior results in him being able to greet. If you have a social, yet frustrated dog, simply turn and walk him away from the source until he is calm and only allow him to greet when the leash is loose.

Do not punish a dog that lunges on the leash for any reason, especially if the cause of the behavior is insecurity, which is the case for most dogs.

Put the emphasis on giving your dog something else to do in that moment instead of using punishment, which will help him be more comfortable in the situation.

Change How Your Dog Feels About the Threat
By using positive reinforcement techniques you can actually change the way your dog feels about a certain situation for the better and therefore change his emotional and behavioral response.

• For example, when your dog sees another dog in the distance and is curious but not yet uncomfortable, bring out his favorite toy or food and play with him or feed him. The toys or food you use have to be of the highest value and only used when doing this teaching around other dogs.
• Playing or feeding your dog will help him to not only focus on something else when he is in the proximity of another dog, but the pleasure he gets playing or eating will change the way he perceives the outcome of that dog’s presence.
• Now he is associating the sight of another dog with positive things happening to him that make him feel good. This is the key to changing the way your dog feels.

Remember, punishment serves to suppress behavior at that moment, but does not help to change the way a dog feels emotionally, while using these positive techniques will have longer lasting success.

Desensitizing Your Leash Reactive Dog
Desensitizing your dog to a perceived threat, such as an approaching dog, may happen very quickly, or it might take a period of time. Every dog is different and it is important to go at your dog’s pace.

To teach your dog to be comfortable with other dogs passing by, start by having a friend or trainer bring their calm, non-reactive dog to help you.

• Begin the training by having them stand at a distance where your dog is comfortable and can focus on other things.
• Play a game your dog enjoys, give him his favorite toy or feed him some delicious food.
• If your dog shows no signs of discomfort, ask your helper to bring their dog a little closer.
• Continue to play or feed your dog and give plenty of praise.
• If at any time your dog reacts negatively, simply turn around and walk away from the situation until he calms down enough to play again or accept food.
• If your dog is reacting negatively, you have decreased the distance too quickly. Move the helper dog back to a distance where your dog can relax and repeat the process.

How Long Will Training Take?
Training might take time depending on your dog’s level of discomfort, but do not give up, as this training technique has an impressive success rate. Stay calm and relaxed yourself throughout the process and gradually work up to the point where the other dog is able to walk past as your dog focuses on you or stays calmly by your side.

• When you get to the point where you can walk past other dogs with no reaction at all, your dog might be ready to experience his first greeting.
• Do not allow unconfident dogs to greet face to face to begin with as it can be too much pressure, so practice following the other dog or walking parallel with each other until both dogs are comfortable.
• If your dog is relaxed, then you can both walk in an arc towards each other, have your dogs greet for a few seconds face to face and then happily draw them away from each other, rewarding them for making this huge step.
• When it is appropriate, try going for regular walks with your dog’s new friend and begin adding other dogs to the mix until you can get a regular walking group together.
• Simply experiencing the joys of a walk with other dogs will help your dog feel more comfortable around them.

Bottom Line
Like most aggressive responses, leash aggression is usually rooted in a dog’s fear of a person, place or thing. To manage the behavior, you must first identify what is causing the fear, and then work to desensitize the dog to that fear by utilizing positive training methods. Never punish a leash aggressive dog with leash jerks or physical force, as this will only increase the dog’s fear and unconfidence in that situation. Successfully managing leash aggression can take time, but as long as you stay consistent and provide positive alternatives to how the dog experiences things, you can literally change how the dog feels about being on the leash.

– See more at: http://positively.com/dog-behavior/aggression/leash-aggression/#sthash.QZB2pQNX.dpuf

Common behavioral problems (in newly rescued dogs)

(This applies to both dogs going into foster homes for the first time, as well as dogs moving into new forever homes)

Many, but not all, of the dogs that come into our Rescue will have one or more of the following common behavioral problems. Whilst we try to resolve these problems when the dogs are in their foster homes, some may still need to be worked on when the dogs move to their forever homes.

Foster parents provide an invaluable service to our dogs by working diligently with them to try and correct these behaviors, making them more adoptable.

It is certainly not unusual for a new dog going into a foster home or forever home to be quiet and aloof at first. We generally suggest you allow the dog to decompress for two weeks before making a true evaluation of the dog’s temperament.

After a few days to two weeks, new behavioral problems may arise and this is generally a sign that the dog is relaxing and letting their true personality come through.

Remember, stay calm, consistent and assertive at all times!

Housetraining (not usually a big problem with Jindos who will often housetrain themselves)

Rule out medical problems (intestinal problems, e.g.worms, bladder infections, etc.)

Supervise the dog and don’t let them out of sight (use doors, gates or a leash to keep them near you)

Confine the dog whenever they cannot be supervised (confine to a small room, or crate)

Do not harbor grudges against the dog for making mistakes in an unfamiliar surrounding

Clean up all accidents with a pet odor neturalizer and give the dog a bath if he has an accident on himself and gets dirty; dogs (and Jindos in particular) WANT to be clean

Correct the dog ONLY if you catch them in the act – it is too late otherwise

Keep the dog’s meals and trips outside on a regular schedule; Jindos appreciate structure and thrive off schedules

Reward your dog with praise when they get it right!

Watch for signs like circling, sniffing and whining, and try to respond immediately

If the dog starts to go, interrupt by saying NO or clapping, and move them outside

Marking in the house (with male dogs this can be common)

Neuter the dog

Keep the dog on a leash tethered to your waist

Interrupt the dog as he starts to lift his leg

If you cannot supervise the dog at all times, confine to a safe area or crate

Observe to see if it is in response to an outside stimulus (fear of loud noises etc) and take action so that you are not reinforcing that fear

Spray areas with a pet odor neutralizer/enzymatic cleaner

Chewing

Supervise the dog and confine when you cannot supervise

Use a bitter-tasting spray on inappropriate items, but beware that some of these sprays can leave marks/residue so test on something that is not valuable first! (These sprays can be purchased from pet supply stores)

Dogproof the home! Don’t leave valuable things laying on the floor.

Barking

Dogs may bark excessively for numerous reasons:

BOREDOM: Provide exercise and mental stimulation with toys and training exercises.

LONELINESS: Do not leave the dog outside unattended

SEPARATION ANXIETY: (see accompanying sheet) Gradually teach the dog to tolerate being alone for longer periods of time

TO GET ATTENTION: Ignore the dog and reward quiet behavior

STRESS: Refocus the dog with training commands like sit, down, paw etc. or move away from the source of stress

GUARDING: If you are unable to supervise to correct the behavior, confine the dog to a quiet area away from windows and/or doors so they won’t become overstimulated by everything going on outside. Play music in the background, or leave the TV on so that they cannot hear every little thing going on outdoors.

Jumping

Ignore the dog when they jump up and make sure that all visitors and family know to do the same; simply turn away, no kicking or shouting at the dog

Refocus the dog by training them to sit (this is an ‘incompatible’ behavior, i.e. the dog cannot do this whilst he is trying to jump and vice versa)

Always be consistent with your training!

Door-Bolting (dashing through doors)

Refocus the dog by training them to sit and wait before the door opens (start with a leash attached), and keep practising until you can open the door and the dog does not move until given permission to do so

Pulling on leash

Clicker training — Click and reward (treat) every time the dog is walking beside you with a loose leash

Be unpredictable — Abruptly change direction any time the dog stops paying attention to you.

“Be a tree” — Don’t move forward unless the leash is slack (this has never worked for me, but may work for some)

“Penalty yards” — Return to the starting line each time the leash gets tight

“Walking with a goal” — Choose a goal that your dog will find rewarding (put some chicken on the ground several feet away, or choose a favorite smelly telephone pole). The dog must keep a loose leash in order to reach the goal.

Targeting — Teach the dog to touch your hand for food rewards. He can’t pull if he is walking beside you.

Management — Use a special collar or harness for short-term management, while also continuing to work on long-term training solutions:

◦ Gentle Leader headcollar — Fits around the neck and muzzle, like a horse’s halter. Gently and effectively reduces pulling by giving you control of the dog’s head. Do not jerk the leash because you could injure the dog’s neck. Also make sure you keep the dog on a fairly short lead so that he can’t get a running start and hit the end of the lead, twisting his neck. Disadvantages: There is an adjustment period, during which most dogs will try to paw or rub the collar off. Dogs can learn to pull with this type of collar.

◦ Prong or pinch collar — Gives immediate, effective control for dogs that object to a headcollar. Some people refer to the pinch collar as “power steering.” Collar must be fitted correctly to be effective. Advantage over Gentle Leader is that there is no adjustment period. Some dogs are more sensitive to the pinching sensation than others, so use with caution and consult an experienced trainer for assistance.

◦ Front-attach harness — Makes it difficult to pull by putting the attachment point in front of the dog’s chest, thus pulling the dog off balance. There are several brands on the market. Very effective if the dog’s only issue is pulling. Not a good choice for dogs with other issues (such as lunging and barking at other dogs or people) since you have no control of the dog’s head.

◦ Flexi (retractable lead) — Most dogs enjoy the extra room to maneuver and will trot happily back and forth, rather than running to the end of the lead and continuing to pull. Please practice using your flexi before going out in public. In inexperienced hands, dogs on retractable leashes can be a nuisance or even a hazard. Read the instructions that came with your flexi and practice using the brake and retracting the lead in a quick, fluid motion.

Running away/not coming when called

• Management — Make sure the yard is secure. Keep the dog on leash when outside.

• Neutering — This can reduce the tendency of a dog to roam, but will take some time to have an effect. Don’t expect this to completely cure the problem because running away is already an established behavior.

• Practice recalls — Start with the dog very close (in the house, on leash, or in a fenced area) and reward the dog every time it comes to you. Gradually increase the distance.

• Choose a special recall cue and make sure the dog is always rewarded for responding to the cue.

• Never call the dog for something unpleasant, like getting a bath.

• Don’t call unless you are reasonably sure the dog will respond, or are in a position to enforce the command (dog is on a long line). Don’t give him the option of not coming until he is reliably responding to the cue in training sessions. Otherwise, you are just teaching the dog to ignore your recall cue.

• Don’t repeat your cue. If the dog fails to come on the first cue, go and get him.

Do lots of repetitions until the dog responds without hesitation, regardless of distance and distractions.

Aggression

Consult with a trainer for help if your dog…

• Bites or snaps

• Growls or snarls when being handled

• Guards food or toys

• Exhibits any other behavior that would make you afraid to have the dog around other people or animals

Unusual eating habits in dogs

(From The Dumb Friends League)