Resources :

  • Jump To:
  • Leadership basics

    http://suzanneclothier.com/the-articles/leadership-basics

    (Suzanne Clothier – Relationship Centered Training)

    A simple guide to regaining your dog’s respect in pleasant, non-confrontational ways.

    by Suzanne Clothier

    There are three basic aspects to leadership:
    – Control of or undisputed access to resources
    – Proactive intervention
    – Ability to control, direct or inhibit the behavior of others

    Behaving like a leader means that you must demonstrate ‘to the dog’s satisfaction!’ that your behavior is that of a higher status animal. Each dog will have different criteria for what constitutes adequate leadership skills on your part. And his expectations may change considerably as he grows & matures, requiring that you also make shifts in your approach.

    Directing, Controlling & Inhibiting Behavior

    From the dog’s perspective, only someone they respect has the right to control, direct or inhibit another dog’s behavior. Turned around the other way, this means that if you can’t control, direct or inhibit your dog’s behavior (especially at critical or highly exciting times), your dog is making it quite clear that he does not consider you higher status, in other words, he doesn’t respect you, a clear sign that your leadership is inadequate for that dog (though it may be quite adequate for another dog with a different personality.)

    Your dog will grant you precisely the respect you have earned. No more, no less. And he will adjust that constantly. If you begin to act in sloppy ways, he’ll downgrade the respect. Clean up your act, and he’ll respond accordingly. You are not voted leader for life in the world of dogs, you earn the dog’s respect daily. The more intelligent, confident and ambitious the dog, the more likely he is to quickly notice tiny shifts in your behavior on any given day, and to test you and the rules regularly. This is why when changes occur in our lives, which result in changes in our behavior (as simple as being rushed for time to moving, changing jobs, or other bigger life shifts) prompt new behavior from the dog – he’s testing to see what the changes mean for him.

    Basic training is important to help the dog understand that you can control and direct his behavior, something you will also be teaching him through your resource control actions. But you must earn the respect and the right to control the dog’s behavior. If you do not have control of the dog in non-stressful times – like meals or playing ball or even walking (pulling?) down the street – I guarantee you he’s not going to listen to you when something he thinks important happens (like a cat dashing across your path or a jogger going by or another dog appearing on the street, the person at the door, etc.)

    Practice self-control with your dog frequently, as well as basic obedience in every place you can think of, and with you in every possible position. Act like a leader, earn the respect!

    Proactive Intervention

    Good leaders are watchful, protective and quick to act to defend. When you are with your dog, really be with him, and watching his responses to the world around him. Plan ahead how you will handle situations you know may be troublesome. Be someone he can rely on no matter what. If it helps, think of him as a guest at a party or family gathering who is unsure of what may be the polite or appropriate thing to say or do. If you were helping such a guest, how would you do this? By paying close attention, anticipating situations where help may be needed, and avoiding those situations that he couldn’t handle.

    How do you know if your leadership is adequate for any given dog?

    If you can control or have access to ANY resource without the dog challenging your right to it AND
    The dog allows you to control, direct or inhibit his behavior in highly exciting or critical moments (quiet times with just you & the dog do NOT count; controlling the dog when a cat dashes past or someone knocks on the door or when guests comes DO count) AND
    Your dog trusts that you will step in if necessary to protect him from other dogs or people, and is willing to defer to you on these occasions.

    If there are weak points in any of these areas, you may need to make some changes in your leadership style. One easy, non-confrontationnal way to gain your dog’s respect is through resource control.

    Regaining Resource Control

    What Matters To Your Dog? Make a written list of the top 5-10 resources for your dog. This may be food, treats, toys, attention, play, special resting places, walks, car rides, etc. Hopefully you are on the list! Don’t waste your time or the dog’s by trying to control resources that don’t mean much to the dog.

    What Can You Ask From Your Dog? Make a list of EVERY behavior your dog knows – whether formal commands or tricks. From this list, you will draw your ‘request’ of one or more behaviors which must be completed promptly, on one quiet command and executed exactly before you will provide the resource. For access to any resource, insist that your dog ‘give’ you something before you provide the resource.

    A sit or down is a basic starting point; however, as the dog’s skills allow, make the dog work harder. Put 2 or 3 behaviors together; do not be predictable! Too many folks stay with a simple sit or down, never progressing to much more demanding requests as the dog’s skills allow. Remember how your mom got all excited when you were finally able to write your name? Well, it’s good to remember that these days folks take that for granted and expect much more from you. Asking a truly intelligent dog to merely sit is like asking Bill Gates for $100 – it’s not exactly requiring him to give something meaningful.

    Making the request meaningful relative to the dog’s skills will sharpen him up – he must really concentrate and pay attention to you. Ask for any and all skills the dog has, and all the tricks he knows, and mix them up in an unexpected order.

    The goal is the dog’s complete attentive cooperation, not a habituated response that requires no thought from the dog.

    No Grading on the Curve. Set your baseline for acceptable responses and hold tight. If you want the dog to sit within 2 seconds, then accept NO responses that are slower. Being consistent is an important part of leadership. Smart dogs will push you hard to see if you’ll accept less or slower responses – that’s what got you both into this situation in the first place!

    Consistency Counts! Be relentless. Your dog views you as his leader 24 hours a day. He cannot and will not understand your annoying boss, your in-law problems or your IRS woes as the reasons for your inconsistency. He believes what you say – every time!

    Too Bad. If the dog offers a wrong or slow response, you can repeat the command, try again,or even gently remind/help him, you can offer verbal praise & encouragement BUT do not provide the desired resource till he gets it absolutely right. If the dog blows you off, quietly turn away and make the resource unavailable. This may mean putting the food bowl in the refrigerator and walking away for a few minutes before nicely asking again. It may mean walking away from the door you would have opened if the dog had played by the rules. It may mean ending the game of fetch. Try again in a few minutes to see if the dog is more willing to cooperate, but be sure YOU are the one who chooses to start again, not the dog pushing you to it.

    Stay Cool. No need to be harsh, angry or confrontational. Simply draw a direct line from the dog’s behavior to the consequence. If you do this, this happens. For example, you ask the dog to lie down before throwing his ball, and he refuses. Oh well – game is over; you pocket the ball and walk away for a bit (maybe just 5-15 seconds; maybe much longer; all depends on the situation and the dog’s behavior.) Take home message for the dog: If you do not cooperate, I don’t play.

    Earn Your Oscar! When necessary, be dramatic in your responses – acting shocked or deeply disappointed with the wrong response from the dog, sweetly encouraging if he’s almost right, and dramatic in your withdrawal should he really blow it. Often, handlers offer such “mushy” information that the dog has a hard time telling the difference between what’s right and what’s wrong. Harsh or angry is not necessary; but clearly delighted or disappointed can help the dog figure things out.

    Educate The Dog The more your dog knows, the more ways he has to cooperate with you. Polish up his current skills, and keep adding new ones; more & more tricks, for example, gives your dog more ways to be right and earn what he wants. Training is communication, and communication is critical to healthy relationships. Besides, it’s just plain fun!

    Dogs and door issues

    http://positively.com/dog-behavior/nuisance-behaviors/door-issues/

    (Victoria Stilwell – Positively)

    The door is the epicenter of some common nuisance behaviors in dogs, particularly door dashing and unwanted barking. With positive training and a little patience, these are both behaviors that can be improved and potentially eliminated.

    Door Dashing
    Door dashing is a very common behavior that can have obvious dangerous consequences. The first step in stopping this behavior is to find out why your dog wants to run away in the first place.

    Why Do Dogs Door Dash?
    Many dogs become bored in their home environment and are stimulated by the opportunity and excitement they feel when they make their escape.
    Dogs that don’t get a lot of opportunity to go outside may door-dash to get a taste of freedom, while others with high prey drive and a deep-rooted instinct to run and chase are driven by their desire to hunt.
    Most domestic dogs live in a sensory deprived environment, so the promise of fun and excitement outside the home is too much for them to ignore – escaping makes them feel good.
    How to Stop Your Dog From Door-Dashing
    Start by teaching valuable impulse control. Dogs are born with little self-control and it is up to us to teach them ‘manners’ so they can live more successfully in a domestic environment.
    Teach your dog to ‘stay’ by putting your hand up and holding it still until you give the signal that it is ok to move, followed by a food or toy reward for complying.
    Once you have your dog’s focus, gradually lengthen the time that your hand is still until your dog can stay in place for a minute.
    Ask him to stay and take a step back. If he breaks his stay, lure him back to his original waiting place and repeat the exercise.
    Repeat until you can walk about ten feet away from him without him following you. You are now ready to move to the door.
    Repeat the exercise by the front door with your dog staying a good distance away from the door.
    Put your hand on the door and rattle the door handle. This is a physical and auditory cue that the door is about to be opened, which might trigger your dog to move towards the door. Lure your dog back to his place until you can rattle the door handle without him moving.
    For each exercise, go back and treat him for staying in one place. This means you are continually reinforcing him for staying still.
    If your dog is complying, then you can move onto the next level. Open the door a tiny crack, shut it again and go back to your dog to reinforce the stay with a treat. Continue until you have the door wide open with your dog staying still.
    During this training process your dog will be problem solving – working out what he has to do to get a reward.

    So much traditional training is centered on thinking for the dog that people forget how vital it is to allow the dog to think for himself with your guidance. Problem solving is extremely important and provides valuable mental stimulation that motivates and keeps the dog’s mind active and fit.
    The next stage is to add triggers that signal someone is at the door and a door dashing opportunity is imminent. Ring the doorbell yourself or having a family member outside do it for you. It is one thing for your dog to sit and wait by a door during a calm training session, but quite another to use self-control after the doorbell has rung.
    Be patient because your dog is likely to react to the trigger of the bell. Calmly lead him back to his place and repeat until he no longer moves when he hears the bell. Open the door to reveal that no one is outside.
    Repeat the exercise with family members coming through the door, guests and then strangers, as long as your dog is sociable and safe around new people.
    This teaching exercise might take time. Don’t rush it and be patient, because you will see success. Remember that every dog is unique and learns at a different pace.
    Barking at the Doorbell
    Another common problem between dogs and the door is excessive barking, particularly when the doorbell rings. The formula for solving this problem is similar to the protocol above for door dashing.
    The key is to desensitize your dog to the sound of the doorbell:
    Sit somewhere near your front door and ask a friend or neighbor to ring the doorbell. When it rings, completely ignore the doorbell as well as your dog’s barking. Do not stand up, speak, or open the door.
    Wait till your dog is completely silent before getting up to open the door.
    Allow your dog to greet your guest as his reward.
    Repeat this process until your dog becomes desensitized to the sound of the doorbell. This may take multiple 10-15 minute sessions.
    Be patient! Some dogs learn more quickly than others.
    – See more at: http://positively.com/dog-behavior/nuisance-behaviors/door-issues/#sthash.Fu1UMtTz.dpuf

    Crates and confinement supplies

    http://thehousebreakingbible.com/products/crates-and-confinement-products.htm

    Crates and Confinement Supplies

    ZenHaus CrateIf you’re worried about the impact a dog crate will have on your decor or if your space is limited, this gorgeous modern crate doubles as an end table! Available in multiple colors and sizes. ProSelect Heavy Duty CrateIf your dog is an escape artist or a crate-destroyer, this heavy-duty crate (described by the manufacturer as “virtually indestructible”!) is a good option for containing powerful or destructive dogs. Impact Case Collapsible Heavy Duty Crate If you need a portable crate for your strong, destructive or escape artist dog, this collapsible heavy-duty aluminum crate is a rock-solid choice. It’s approved for airline travel, too!
    Petmate Ultra Vari Kennel CrateThese sturdy Vari-Kennel plastic crates are ideal for dogs that like a cozy place to hang out. You can use them for travel, too, so they’re perfect for pups who want to join you when you go on vacation! Noz2Noz Soft CrateSoft crates are a convenient, portable option for keeping your pup cozy when you’re away, but you may want to go with a sturdier option for destructive dogs or Houdini hounds! Wicker CrateThese wicker crates are a great choice if you want something attractive but reasonably priced. They’re great for non-destructive dogs, but be warned – chewers might find the wicker irresistible!
    Midwest Life Stages CrateThis all-purpose crate is an especially practical choice for young puppies, since it comes with a divider that allows you to expand the crate as your puppy grows so it’s always just the right size. Wire Crate with Wood FrameThis crate is a perfect option if you want an attractive crate but have a pup that may have accidents or nibble on an all-wood crate. It’s easy to clean and there are wire panels between your pup and the finished wood frame. TownHaus Wood CrateThese gorgeous finished wood crates will keep your house from looking like a kennel; they look more like a nice piece of furniture than a dog crate! Available in multiple finishes and sizes.
    Snoozers Crate CoverMany pups are calmer in the crate when it’s covered – and a cover will make your crate look a whole lot better! Snoozer crate covers come in multiple colors and sizes to fit your crate and match your decor. Deluxe Crate PadAvailable in several sizes, these crate pads are perfect for keeping your dog comfy in the crate. And you can wash the whole thing, which helps to prevent SDBS (Stinky Dog Bed Syndrome)! Dog Water BottleIf your dog needs to have water in the crate but might be prone to spilling or splashing in a bowl, this dog water bottle will keep your dog hydrated and the crate dry!
    Crate Water BowlIf your dog needs to have water in the crate, try these stainless steel water bowls that attach securely to the inside of the crate door. They come in multiple sizes so you’ll be able to find one that’s perfect for your pup! Exercise Pen w/ Walk-Through GateThis exercise pen has a walk-through gate and comes in several heights (if your dog’s a climber, get a tall one!). Can be used in multiple configurations as a pen or room divider, or be connected to a second pen to create a large play area Indoor Barrier SystemThis indoor barrier system is great for keeping your dog out of forbidden areas, but I recommend you use it only for areas that will be permanently forbidden, not for areas you’ll allow him in once he’s trained. A puppy gate is a better option to temporarily keep him out.
    Outdoor Dog RunThis dog run is a safe outdoor hangout for dogs who don’t have fenced yards or who aren’t ready to have unsupervised access to the whole yard. Remember to be sure your dog has some shade and a water bowl! Deco Walk-Through GateThis attractive bronze-finish gate can be opened with one hand and closes automatically after you walk through. Adjustable to fit a wide range of doorways. Hands-Free Puppy GateThis self-closing walk-through gate opens with a foot pedal, so it offers totally hands-free operation – a big help when you’ve got your hands full with your new puppy!
    Freestanding Walk-Through Puppy GateThis sturdy freestanding gate is perfect for wider doorways. It has a walk-through gate, so you won’t need to hurdle the thing every time you enter or exit! Dog Tie-OutIf you don’t have a fenced yard or outdoor dog run, this overhead dog tie-out will allow your dog to have some safe free time outdoors! If it’s hot or if your dog will be outside for an extended period, be sure the tie-out is positioned so there’s some shade and access to a water bowl.

     

    Child/dog safety guide

    http://positively.com/animal-advocacy/dog-bite-prevention/child-dog-safety-guide/

    (Victoria Stilwell – Positively)

    Dogs make wonderful companions and need to be treated with care and respect. Most dogs are very friendly and won’t bite. However, some dogs bite because they’re fearful, angry, frustrated or are protecting something that is valuable to them. It’s vital that you recognize not just the signs that a dog is uncomfortable, but also the situations you could be in where the chance of a bite is more likely.

    Dogs don’t bite without giving some kind of warning, but while some dogs might growl, tense up or bark aggressively at you, others will give warnings that are so subtle, they are easy to miss.

    Here are a few guidelines you can follow when you are around dogs to keep yourself K-9 Safe and Smart!

    • Never touch a dog that is unknown to you.
    • Even if you know the dog, always ask permission from an adult you know to see if it’s ok to ask the handler if you can pet their dog.
    • Even when you have permission, try not to invade the dog’s body space. Allow the dog to come up and sniff your closed fist (palm down, knuckles facing the dog). If the dog doesn’t want to come and greet you, respect that decision and leave him alone.
    • Approaching a dog from behind or petting him directly on the top of his head can be threatening and uncomfortable for him. The dog’s back or chest is the best place to pet.
    • If a dog moves away while being stroked he’s telling you that he’s had enough, so allow him to have space and don’t follow him.
    • Never stare at a dog, kiss or put your face close to a dog’s face. Look at the dog briefly and then look away, look and look away. These are calming signals, which tell the dog you’re no threat.
    • Dogs don’t like being teased.
    • Avoid touching a dog that has been tied up or left at the end of a chain in a yard, outside a store or behind a fence
    • Tell an adult immediately if you see a dog that is loose in your neighborhood. Don’t touch it.
    • What would you feel like if a dog came up to you while you were eating and tried to take your food away?       I expect it would make you angry and you would try and prevent the dog from getting your food. Dogs are the same as humans in that they don’t like people coming up to them and touching them while they’re eating their dinner or chewing a juicy bone. Let eating dogs eat alone!
    • Dogs can startle easily if they are awoken suddenly by being touched and they sometimes react without thinking and snap when startled, so let sleeping dogs sleep!
    • Avoid taking a bone or toy away from a dog if she is playing with it.
    • If you want to sit on a sofa or chair that a dog is sitting on, try not to pull him off. Always get an adult to remove the dog for you.
    • If a dog scares you avoid screaming and running away. Put your hands together, stand still, look away and completely ignore him until he loses interest in you and goes away instead. The more boring you are, the less the dog will want to interact with you. When the dog has finished sniffing and walks away from you, walk slowly away and tell an adult.
    • If you are at someone’s house with a rambunctious dog don’t feel embarrassed about asking an adult to put the dog away in a different room if he makes you feel uncomfortable
    • If the dog tries to bite you, put a bag or coat between you and the dog and back away to a safe place.
    • In the unlikely event a dog bites and you are on the floor, roll up into a ball on your knees, with your arms clasped around the back of your neck and stay as still as you can until help arrives.
    • Remember that a dog is an animal and not a cuddly toy. Most dogs don’t like being hugged or kissed. Hugging in dog language can mean fighting and that is definitely not an expression of affection like it’s in human language. Be gentle with any dog and try not to engage in rough play.

     

    – See more at: http://positively.com/animal-advocacy/dog-bite-prevention/child-dog-safety-guide/#sthash.oaKJtYGt.dpuf

    Introducing dog to new baby

    http://positively.com/dog-behavior/new-dogs/introducing-a-new-dog/introducing-dog-to-new-baby/

    (Victoria Stilwell – Positively)

    Bringing home a new baby to a household with an existing dog (or dogs) should be done with great care and a good amount of foresight. Too often, new parents are so consumed with the needs and exhilaration of the new baby that they overlook the impact that this new tiny, loud, smelly creature may have on their dogs.

    To get a better sense of how your dog will cope with the new arrival, it is important to understand how your dog perceives the world around her. Dogs are extremely sensitive to environmental change both physically and mentally. Things like people walking in and out of a room, strangers coming to the front door and raised voices during an argument will naturally illicit an emotional and physical response. How your dog deals with the new family member may vary greatly.

    It is impossible for humans to understand exactly how sensory output can affect dog behavior, but years of scientific and observational study have presented us with a clearer picture. You can avoid potential problems by using this knowledge to help your dog become more comfortable when your baby arrives.


    The Baby’s Smell
    A dog’s sense of smell is immeasurably superior to ours. Your baby is going to smell fascinating to your dog, so introduce her to baby smells well ahead of baby’s actual arrival.

    • Allow your dog to explore the sweet smelling baby products that you will be using and when your baby is born
    • Have a friend or family member bring home a blanket that your baby has been wrapped in at the hospital.
    • Allow the dog to smell the blanket and praise her as she is sniffing it.
    • Give her a delicious treat and allow her to smell again.
    • Repeat this a number of times until baby comes home.

    The Baby’s Cries
    If you consider how the cry of a newborn makes a new mom anxious, you can be sure it has the same affect on the animals around you so it is important that you work now to desensitize your dog to baby sounds.

    • Try buying a CD of a crying baby, which you can play a few times a day for a few weeks at a low setting so that the dog can hardly hear it.
    • Good things such as play, petting and treats happen while the CD is playing.
    • If your dog seems comfortable and shows no adverse reactions the volume is increased.
    • If she becomes stressed at any time, the volume must be decreased to the previous comfort level for a couple of days until she is relaxed.
    • This process can be repeated until she is comfortable with louder levels. The recording will not be the unique cry of your baby, but over a period of weeks your dog will become accustomed to the sound of a baby’s cries even before your baby is born.

     

    Download your free copy of Pet Meets Baby here!

     

    The Touch of the New Baby
    The special sensory hairs that grow around your dog’s muzzle, under her jaw and above her eyes are called vibrissae and they help her gather information from her environment through touch. You can use this to your advantage.

    • Purchase a life sized baby doll and allow your dog to touch the doll’s feet with her nose.
    • Praise and treat.
    • Walk around with the doll in your arms wrapped in a blanket.
    • Get used to sitting with your doll in one arm as if you are feeding it while stroking the dog with the other hand.

    Your dog will begin to associate that the close presence of your baby means good things happen to her.


    Know Your Dog

    Some dogs have never seen a baby, let alone live with one in the house. How does your dog react around other babies that cry loudly or a child that runs past? Does she get over excited or remain calm? Is her body tensing when a child comes too near or is she eager to greet them? Observing your dog’s reactions around other children will give you an indication of what you can expect when your baby arrives.


    Use the Power Positive Reinforcement
    Most dogs are motivated by food. Using treats as a reward for calm behavior when the baby is crying or when you are holding the baby in your arms provides a positive association, because your dog is getting delicious food when the baby is around. If your dog is not food motivated then rewarding good behavior with her favorite toy or game is just as powerful.


    Get Your Dog Used to the Equipment

    Walking with your dog is a great bonding experience and helps you stay fit throughout your pregnancy. However, it is important that your dog now learns how to walk with a stroller. If your dog is a leash puller, have another person walk her while you push the stroller. Hire a private trainer or take your dog to a training class so that she can be taught to walk appropriately alongside the stroller. The more you can practice now the easier it will be.


    Brush Up On Training Before Baby’s Arrival
    If you have poor communication with your dog, now is the time to enroll her in a training class or hire a private in-home trainer to work with you. A dog that responds well to cues and who understands that jumping up on you when you have a baby in your arms is unacceptable, for example, will be much easier to live with when the baby arrives. Compliance teaching is great for bonding and good communication promotes confidence.


    Plan Ahead
    Have a plan ready a few months before delivery so that your dog has somewhere to go when you go into hospital. And when you finally come home allow a family member to carry your baby into the house while you spend time greeting the dog. After the greeting is over, sit down on the sofa with the baby in your arms and introduce your dog to the new family member. Keep your body relaxed throughout the introductions and praise your dog for remaining calm.

    Baby proofing your dog is all about making that dog feel comfortable and safe with the new changes your baby will bring to your life. Never forget that as a parent you are responsible for those who do not have the ability to think or reason like you do. You need to protect your baby and your dog.


    Bottom Line

    No infant or child should ever be left unsupervised even for a short time with a dog, no matter how well mannered and well trained that dog might be.

     

    – See more at: http://positively.com/dog-behavior/new-dogs/introducing-a-new-dog/introducing-dog-to-new-baby/#sthash.KfXTHGmG.dpuf

    What makes a leader? How to be the leader your dog needs!

    http://positively.com/victorias-blog/what-makes-a-leader/

    (Victoria Stilwell – Positively)

    What do you think of when you think of a leader? Although many people might conjure up a vision of someone powerful or authoritative, a new study shows that the best leaders are humble leaders.

    It’s hard to imagine what it would mean for the world of companion animal training if this concept was applied there, too. The idea of being a “pack leader” with dogs has become widely mainstream all over the world, but it’s a dangerous and flawed concept. When we make the decision to be the forceful, authoritative leader of our dogs, we lose the chance to build trust and bond with them.

    A new study was conducted on what makes the best leaders in the human workplace. Interestingly, one of the top characteristics was humility. Employees working under a leader that showed humility and altruistic or selfless behavior were not only happier, but also performed better in the workplace.

    When dogs are constantly pushed around, “corrected,” or forced into submission, something terrible happens. They lose their ability to focus, to learn, and are ultimately pushed to breaking point. For some dogs, this may show itself as aggression or a fearful response. Other dogs shut down completely and enter a state of “learned helplessness.” Just like an employee might lose focus, get burned out, or become less productive due to poor management, dogs also suffer at the hands of poor and punitive leadership.

    We owe it to our dogs to be good leaders. Unlike most human employees, dogs don’t get a say in who their leader is. If dogs are miserable with the “management”, they don’t have the option of finding a new leader. Studies have shown that dogs trained using forceful, punishment-based techniques are more distracted, have less ability to learn and focus less on their handler. Is that the kind of leader you want to be?

    If you can build a bond with your dog based on mutual trust rather than trying to dominate or force your dog into submission, the odds are that your dog will love to work for you and with you. When you work as a team with your dog as a humble leader, the possibilities are endless.

    – See more at: http://positively.com/victorias-blog/what-makes-a-leader/#sthash.9EMWeagC.dpuf

    Resource guarding

    http://positively.com/dog-behavior/aggression/resource-guarding/

    (Victoria Stilwell – Positively)

    Resource guarding is when a dog controls access to food, objects, people and locations that are important to him through defensive body language or overt aggressive display. This is a relatively common canine behavior and is influenced by a number of environmental and situational stimuli, including a dog’s natural instinct to survive.

    The dog that has first access to food, for example, has nutritional advantage over others and even though thousands of years of domestication have changed the dog in many ways, instinct can remain deeply rooted. Dogs have most likely evolved from scavengers and scavengers do not need pack members to survive. In fact in this scenario, other dogs are competition for food and threaten survival, so guarding access to scraps becomes extremely important.


    Are Dogs That Guard Resources Insecure?
    Guarding resources is usually a manifestation of the dog’s deep-rooted insecurity and inability to cope well in a social situation, even with people and other dogs he knows.

    • An insecure dog can see anyone as a potential threat to a resource whether that resource is food, toys, space, a mate or access to a person.
    • A resource guarder will not tolerate competition and will guard the resource to maintain priority access.
    • The threat of losing the resource and the good feeling that the resource provides make a dog more vigilant, angry and irritable.

     Territorial Aggression Dogs that guard large spaces and areas such as houses, property and locations through aggressive displays are practicing 'Territorial Aggression' – a close behavioral cousin to resource guarding. Dogs will naturally protect areas which allow them to feel safe. If that safety is compromised, the dog has no choice but to defend access to areas which he perceives are crucial to his safety and survival. Read more about territorial aggression here.

    Should I Punish My Dog for Guarding Resources?
    Because people often misunderstand why their dogs guard and why there is social competition, many owners of resource guarders often get angry and confrontational with their dogs. Confrontation, however, increases competition and causes the dog to guard the contested resource even more. Using physical punishment on a resource guarding dog is the exact opposite of what you need to do. Instead, make sure you understand the canine experience and work to instill more confidence in the dog so that he feels less threatened.

    When working to rehabilitate a dog that aggressively guards his resources, he should not be ‘dominated’ into submission, nor should he be challenged or physically punished. It is much safer to attempt a ‘bloodless coup’ without the dog ever realizing you are doing so.


    How to Stop a Dog Guarding His Food Bowl

    • Begin by changing the physical picture and provide a new bowl and a different location for your dog to eat in.
    • Vary feeding times so that your dog never has the chance to become tense when his body clock tells him it is time to eat.
    • Utilize the empty bowl method. Pick up your dog’s bowl and make it look like you are filling it with his food.
    • Place the empty food bowl on the ground in front of him. Wait for him to investigate, see there is nothing there and look at you. As soon as he looks at you, praise him and add a bit of food into his bowl.
    • After your dog has finished eating the food wait for him to look at you again and add more food into his bowl.
    • Repeat this until all the food has been eaten. Walk away from his bowl and then back and add a little more. This shows your dog that your approach and presence at his food bowl means he is going to get more food and you are a positive part of his feeding experience.
    • Feed your dog in this manner for a week and as your dog becomes more relaxed with your presence close to his bowl, gradually add larger handfuls of food until you get to the point where you can put down a full food bowl and he can eat with you standing right next to him.
    • The next stage is to practice walking by an empty bowl and throwing a piece of high value food such as chicken into it. Every time you approach your dog’s empty bowl your dog will see your approach as something good.
    • The last stage of this training is to throw a delicious treat into your dog’s bowl as he is in the process of eating. By this time he should be much more relaxed with your presence and able to accept you being close to him as he eats.

    Resource guarding can be a very dangerous behavior to work with so bring in a qualified, humane trainer in your area. Children should never take part in this training.

    – See more at: http://positively.com/dog-behavior/aggression/resource-guarding/#sthash.ACc40QkS.dpuf

    Predatory behavior

    http://positively.com/dog-behavior/aggression/predatory-behavior/

    (Victoria Stilwell – Positively)

    Unlike other manifestations of aggressive type behavior, predatory behavior is not emotionally driven and is largely influenced by genetics. While aggression serves to increase distance, predatory behavior serves to decrease distance as quickly as possible.

    Many domestic dogs are skilled hunters and have been bred to exhibit certain parts of the ‘predatory sequence.’ Sighthounds such as the Greyhound and Saluki are skilled chasers, while Labradors and Weimeraners are adept at flushing and retrieving birds and other small prey animals. Terriers were originally bred to find, chase and kill vermin, such as mice and rats.

    The full predatory sequence is:

    1. Eye
    2. Orient
    3. Stalk
    4. Chase
    5. Grab/bite
    6. Kill/bite
    7. Dissect
    8. Consume

    Some dogs find it reinforcing to chase other animals or moving objects as it fulfills an instinctive need, but this is only the beginning of the predatory sequence. Humans have bred the desire to bite and kill out of the domestic dog unless it is specifically trained to do so, but occasionally a deeper instinct takes over.


    Does my dog have a high prey drive?

    • Although many dogs enjoy shaking and disemboweling stuffed toys, this does not usually translate to live animals or people.
    • Herding breeds are adept at eyeing, stalking, and chasing their ‘prey,’ but they seldom attack and kill the animals they are herding.
    • Dogs that are motivated by the chase, grab, bite, and kill part of the sequence can be very dangerous to live with, especially around small animals and children.


    What is the difference between high ‘chase’ drive and ‘prey’ drive?

    • Many dogs like chasing things like toys, squirrels or people, but are motivated more by the thrill of the chase than actually catching the thing they are chasing.
    • Even though these dogs have ‘chase’ drive, they may not necessarily have high prey drive.
    • Dogs that are highly prey driven are usually motivated by the thrill of the chase and the grab, bite and sometimes kill sequence.

    What should I do if my dog has high prey drive?

    • Some dogs might be driven to chase and maybe catch squirrels or birds. This is usually alright if you are able to control the behavior.
    • If your dog has bitten a child or killed a small animal, it is vital to keep her safely confined in your home or yard/garden area and leashed at all times when in public.
    • If you walk your high chase or prey drive dog off leash, do so in a quiet area where there are no children or other dogs. Teach your dog a reliable recall.
    • Be aware that electric fences do not safely confine any dog and that many dogs run through these ‘fences’ even when wearing their shock collars.
    • A solid fence offers more protection than an electric fence and also prevents people and other animals wandering onto your property.
    • Some dogs with high prey drive excel at sports where they can run and chase in a positive environment. Flyballagility and treibball provide high drive dogs with a physical outlet that allows them to indulge in their favorite pastime but in a controlled way. These sports also teach dogs to listen to people even when in chase or prey mode.

     

    – See more at: http://positively.com/dog-behavior/aggression/predatory-behavior/#sthash.NLaH3Ril.dpuf

    1 11 12 13 14 15 25
    MENU