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    Why pets stray

    (From The Dumb Friends League)

    A common reason a pet will stray from home is that it isn’t spayed or neutered and is looking for a mate. Spaying or neutering eliminates an animal’s reproductive instincts and decreases the desire to roam.

    Make sure:

    • Your cat or dog wears a current rabies tag, license tag and an ID tag with your present address and phone numbers
    • Your address and phone numbers are on file with the veterinarian who provided your pet’s most recent vaccinations
    • Your contact information is current with the registry for your pet’s microchip identification implant

    A microchip identification implant is the size of a grain of rice and is inserted under an animal’s skin. It contains a number that is filed with a national registry. The registry keeps owner contact information. When a shelter or veterinary practice finds an implant on a lost pet, they contact the registry. To get a microchip ID for your pet, consult your veterinarian.

    PLEASE NOTE:Every dog adopted through Two Dog Farms will have a microchip already implanted.

    Category Jindo Info & Dog Tips
    Post Date July 5, 2014

    Why dogs bite: a guide for children

    (From The Dumb Friends League)

    Knowing why dogs bite and what to do to keep yourself safe is important. Dogs may bite for the following reasons:

    Fear or surprise Excitement

    •  Pain or sickness
    •  Protecting property

      Excitement

      The noises and movements you make when you play are very exciting to dogs. When dogs play with other dogs, they often play roughly with their sharp teeth and claws. Sometimes dogs forget that they can’t play the same way with you. Because dogs don’t have hands, they use their mouths to grab things. A dog can hurt you by accident, just by being too excited.

      What you should do: Play gently and calmly. If a dog gets too excited, freeze until he calms down, then walk away. Take some time out before returning to play to give you both a chance to calm down.

      Pain or Sickness

      When a dog is in pain, he doesn’t understand where the pain comes from. If you touch him, he may think you are causing the pain and could bite you to stop the pain.

      What you should do: If a dog is acting like he is sick or hurt, leave him alone – even if he belongs to your family. Tell an adult and together you can get medical help for the dog.

      Protecting Property

      A dog may protect anything that’s important to him: his toys, his bed, his food and water bowls, his people, his yard, his house or even his car. If you come near something that a dog feels is off- limits to you, he may bite to make you leave his property alone!

      What you should (or should not) do: Never go into a yard where there’s a dog you don’t know. Don’t reach through a car window or a fence to pet a dog. Don’t pet a dog that’s tied up. Don’t touch a dog’s property, including his bed and food dishes.

      Fear or Surprise

      Quick movements and sudden or loud noises are scary for dogs, and they may bite to protect themselves. If a dog thinks you might hurt him, he may not know how to get away, so he’ll protect himself by biting.

      What you should do: When you’re around a dog you don’t know, be quiet and move slowly. Always ask the dog’s owner for permission before you pet him. If the owner says you may pet the dog, hold out your hand with your palm down. Let the dog come to you to sniff the back of your hand. Always pet him under the chin first. If a dog is sleeping, leave him alone. You can come back to pet or play with him after he wakes up.

    If the owner isn’t there for you to ask permission to pet the dog, then LEAVE THE DOG ALONE!

    Warning Signs

    Watch and listen for the warnings that a dog will give you to let you know when he is upset. If his ears are laid back against his head or his legs are very stiff, he is probably warning you that he feels threatened and will protect himself if he must. If the hair on his back is standing up, that’s another warning. If a dog is growling or barking with his teeth showing, it means he is ready to bite. A dog’s warning signs mean that you’re doing something he doesn’t like, so stop doing it!

    If you think a dog is about to bite you:

    •  Freeze and look only at the ground.
    •  Count to five, slowly and silently.
    •  Move away very slowly, sideways or backwards.
    •  If the dog jumps on you, act like a rock by curling up into a ball and covering your face and head with your arms.

      What you should NOT do:

      •  Don’t stare at the dog – that means, “I dare you to bite me!”
      •  Don’t run, jump or wave your arms around.
      •  Don’t scream.
      •  Don’t throw anything at the dog or hit him.

        If A Dog Bites You

        If you are bitten by a dog, or any animal, you should:

      •  Have an adult take you to a doctor.
      •  Wash the wound with soap and warm water.
      •  Write down the type, size and color of the animal. Was it wearing a collar? Did it have any identification tags? Where were you when you were bitten? Where did the animal go?
      •  Have an adult report all of this information to the animal control agency in your city or county.

        2003 Dumb Friends League. All Rights Reserved. WDBA_1203

    Category Jindo Info & Dog Tips
    Post Date July 5, 2014

    Unusual eating habits in dogs

    (From The Dumb Friends League)

    Definitions

    Unusual Eating Habits in Dogs

    Dogs will sometimes eat socks, rocks, or other objects, which may result in a variety of problems for both you and your pet. Not only can your possessions be destroyed or damaged, but these items can produce life-threatening blockages in your pet’s intestines. Eating non-food items is called pica. A specific type of pica is stool eating (either their own or that of another animal) and, while not necessarily dangerous to the animal, is probably unacceptable to you. Stool-eating is called coprophagy.

    The causes of pica and coprophagy are not known. Many ideas have been proposed by various experts, but none have been proven or disproven. Such behaviors may sometimes be attention-getting behaviors. If engaging in one of these behaviors results in some type of social interaction between the animal and his owner (even a verbal scolding) then the behavior may be reinforced and occur more frequently. These behaviors may be attempts to obtain a necessary nutrient lacking in the diet, although no nutritional studies have ever substantiated this idea. They may stem from frustration or anxiety. It is also possible the behaviors began as play, as the animal investigates and chews on the objects, and then subsequently began to eat or ingest them.

    It has been suggested that coprophagy is carried over from the normal parental behavior of ingesting the waste of young offspring. Some experts believe coprophagy occurs more often in animals that live in relatively barren environments, are frequently confined to small areas and/or receive limited attention from their owners. Coprophagy is fairly common in dogs, and is seen more often in dogs that tend to be highly food-motivated. It’s also possible that dogs learn this behavior from other dogs.

    Because pica and coprophagy are behaviors that are not well understood, stopping them may require assistance from an animal behavior professional who works individually with owners and their pets. A variety of specialized behavior modification behavior techniques may be necessary to resolve these problems (see our handout: “When the Behavior Helpline Can’t Help”).

    Coprophagy

    Suggested Solutions:

    Because the cause of coprophagy isn’t known, there are no techniques or solutions that are consistently successful. The following techniques may, or may not be effective in resolving the problem.

    □ Treat your dog’s food with something that causes his stool to have an aversive taste. A commercial product called “4-BID” is available through your veterinarian, or the same results may be achieved by using the food additive, “MSG.” Based on owner’s reports, both of these products appear to work in the some cases, but not always. Before using either of these products, please check with your veterinarian.

    □ Treat your dog’s stools directly with an aversive taste by sprinkling them with cayenne pepper or a commercial product, such as “Bitter Apple.” For this method to be effective, every stool your dog has access to must be treated in order for him to learn that eating stools results in unpleasant consequences. Otherwise, he may discriminate by odor, smelling which stools have been treated and which have not.

    □ Any time your dog goes outside, he must be on a leash with you. If you see him about to ingest some stool, interrupt him by using a shake can (only for pets that aren’t afraid of loud noises) then give him a toy to play with instead. Praise him for taking an interest

    in the toy.

    • □  The simplest solution may be to clean your yard daily in order to minimize your dog’s

      opportunity to eat his stools.

    • □  To stop a dog from eating cat feces from a litter box, install a baby-gate in front of the

      litter box area. Your cat shouldn’t have any trouble jumping over it, while most dogs won’t make the attempt. Or, you could place the box in a closet or room where the door can be wedged open from both sides, so your cat has access, but your dog doesn’t. Any type of environmental “booby-trap” to stop a dog from eating cat feces from a litter box must be attempted with caution because if it frightens your dog, it’s likely to frighten your cat as well.

      Health Risks:

      In Colorado’s dry climate, parasites are not as much of a problem as in other parts of the country. If your dog is parasite-free and is eating only his own stools, he can’t be infected with parasites by doing so. If your dog is eating the stools of another animal that has parasites, it may be possible, although still unlikely, for your dog to become infected. Some parasites, such as giardia, cause diarrhea, and most coprophagic dogs ingest only formed stools. There is also a delayed period before the parasites in the stools can re-infect another animal.

      Most parasites require intermediate hosts (they must pass through the body of another species, such as a flea) before they can re-infect another dog or cat. Thus, your dog is much more likely to become infected with parasites through fleas or by eating birds and rodents than by coprophagy. Most parasites are also species-specific, meaning that dogs cannot be infected by eating cat stools. Health risks to humans from being licked in the face by a coprophagic animal are minimal. For more information, please contact your veterinarian.

      Pica

      Pica can be a serious problem because items such as socks, rocks, and string can severely damage or block an animal’s intestines. In some instances, the items must be surgically removed. Because pica can be potentially life-threatening, it’s advisable to consult both your veterinarian and an animal behavior professional for help.

      Suggested Solutions:

    • □  Make the objects your dog is eating taste unpleasant with some of the substances mentioned above (see our handout: “Aversives for Dogs”).
    • □  Prevent your dog’s access to these items.
    • □  If your dog is food-oriented, it may be possible to change to a low-calorie or high-fiber

      diet to allow him to eat more food, more often, which may decrease the behavior.

      Check with your veterinarian before changing your pet’s diet.

    • □  If you suspect that anxiety or frustration is the reason for pica, the cause of the anxiety

      or frustration must be identified and then the behavior can be changed using behavior modification techniques. Clicker training for instance is a good behavior modification technique that stimulates your dog’s mind and alleviates anxiety and frustration (see our handout: “Dog Clicker Training”).

    • □  Sometimes pica is an attention-getting behavior. If this is the case, do not interact with your dog when you catch him ingesting an item, by saying his name or telling him “no,” instead try to startle him with a loud noise. If possible, avoid letting him know that the startling noise came from you. Once he leaves the item alone, lavishly praise him. Try to also set aside 10-15 minutes twice a day to spend with your dog, so that he doesn’t need to resort to pica to get your attention.

    □ If pica is a play behavior, keep the inappropriate items out of reach and provide a selection of appropriate toys (see our handouts: “Dog Toys and How to Use Them”).

    What Doesn’t Work for Coprophagy and Pica:

    • □  Interactive punishment (punishment that comes directly from you, such as verbal scolding) is usually not effective because it may be interpreted by your dog as attention. With interactive punishment, many animals learn to refrain from the behavior when their owner is present, but still engage in the problem behavior when their owner is absent.
    • □  Punishment after the fact is NEVER helpful. Animals don’t understand that they’re being punished for something they did hours, minutes, or even seconds before. This approach won’t resolve the problem and is likely to produce either fearful or aggressive responses from your dog.

    ©2014 Dumb Friends League

    Category Behavior Issues
    Post Date July 5, 2014

    The fearful dog

    (From The Dumb Friends League)

    Dogs may display a variety of behaviors when they are afraid. A frightened dog may try to escape, may show appeasement behaviors (avoidance of eye contact, fearful urinating, rolling over to expose his belly), or he may freeze and remain immobile. Some dogs will bark and/or growl at the object that is causing their fear. In extreme cases of fearfulness a dog may be destructive (out of general anxiety or in an attempt to escape), or he may lose control of his bladder or bowels and, therefore, house soil. A fearful dog will display certain body postures, including lowering his head, flattening his ears back against his head, and tucking his tail between his legs. He may also pant, salivate, tremble and/or pace.

    Causes of Fearful Behavior

    Determining why your dog is fearful is not always essential to treating the fearful behavior, although the reason for his fear will dictate the relative success of the treatment. A dog that is genetically predisposed to general fearfulness, or a dog that was improperly socialized during a critical stage in the development, will probably not respond as well to treatment as a dog that has developed a specific fear in response to a specific experience. It is essential, however, to first rule out any medical causes for your dog’s fearful behavior. Your first step should be to take your dog to your veterinarian for a thorough medical evaluation.

    What You Can Do

    Most fears will not go away by themselves, and if left untreated, may get worse. Some fear, when treated, will decrease in intensity or frequency but may not disappear entirely. Once medical reasons have been ruled out, the first step in dealing with your dog’s fearful behavior is to identify what triggers his fear. If he is afraid of startling noises see our handout: “Helping Your Dog Overcome the Fear of Thunder and Other Startling Noises”. If he is afraid of being left alone, see our handout: “Separation Anxiety”. Most fears can be treated using clicker training, desensitization, and counter-conditioning techniques (see our handout “Dog Clicker Training”).

    Clicker Training

    • □  Condition the clicker, by clicking and giving your dog a treat. Repeat 10 to 12 times.
    • □  Once your dog is conditioned to the clicker, shape a new behavior, like spin or shake starting at a safe distance from the fear stimuli and then gradually decrease the distance to the stimuli. To shape a behavior you want to click and treat for any small approximations of the finished behavior. For instance, if you are shaping spin, then you would click and treat for any head movement in one direction, building up to your dog looking over his shoulder in that same direction, and then finally taking steps until he spins completely around.

      Desensitization

    • □  Begin by exposing your dog to a very low level or small amount of whatever it is that is causing his fear. For example, if he is afraid of bicycles, start with a bicycle placed at a distance of 100 feet from your dog.
    • □  As long as your dog remains relaxed gradually move the bicycle closer to him. If at any point he becomes anxious, move the bicycle further away and proceed at a slower pace.
    • □  When your dog can remain relaxed in the presence of a stationary bicycle, move the bicycle 100 feet away again and have someone slowly ride it around. Gradually increase the proximity of the slowly moving bicycle. Repeat this procedure as many times as necessary, increasing the speed of the moving bicycle.
    • □  This process may take several days, weeks, or even months. You must proceed at a slow enough pace that your dog never becomes fearful during the desensitization process. Additionally, whatever causes the dog’s fearful reaction must be limited or (preferably) completely removed from his environment during times that you are not working on treatment.

      Counter Conditioning

      Counter conditioning works best when used along with desensitization. This involves teaching the dog a new reaction to the fear stimulus.

    • □  Using the desensitization technique example described previously, when your dog is first exposed to the bicycle, give him praise. By pairing positive things with the bicycle, your dog will began to make good associations and overtime learn that whenever the bicycle appears, good things happen!
    • □  Do not use punishment, collar corrections, or scolding. The point of counter conditioning is for him to always associate pleasant things with the thing that frightens him.

      Realistic Expectations

      Some of the things that frighten dogs can be difficult to reproduce and/or control. For example, if your dog is afraid of thunderstorms, he may be responding to other things that occur during the storm, such as smells, barometric pressure changes, and/or changes in the light. During the desensitization process it is impossible for you to reproduce all of these factors. If your dog is afraid of men, you may work at desensitizing him, but if an adult man lives in your household and your dog is constantly exposed to him, this can disrupt the gradual process of desensitization.

      When to Get Help

      Because desensitization and counter conditioning can be difficult to do, and because behavior problems may increase if these techniques are done incorrectly, you may want to get professional, in-home help from an animal behavior specialist (see our handout: “When the Behavior Helpline Can’t Help”). It is important to keep in mind that a fearful dog that feels trapped or is pushed too far may become aggressive. Some dogs will respond aggressively to whatever it is that frightens them (see our handout: “Understanding Aggression in Dogs”). If your dog displays any aggressive behavior, such as growling, snarling, snapping, or baring his teeth, stop all behavior modification procedures and seek professional help from an animal behavior specialist as soon as possible.

      Consult With Your Veterinarian

      Medication may be available that can help your dog feel less anxious for short time periods. Your veterinarian is the only person who is licensed and qualified to prescribe medication for your dog. Do not attempt to give your dog any over-the-counter or prescription medication without consulting with your veterinarian. Animals do not respond to drugs the same way people do, and a medication that may be safe for humans could be fatal to your dog. Drug therapy alone will not reduce fears and phobias permanently. In extreme cases, behavior modification and medication used together may be the best approach.

    New Products

    There are products being marketed by reputable companies to help with anxiety and stress relief in dogs. Please note that none of these is an automatic cure for fear/anxiety, but should be used in conjunction with behavior modification techniques. Please see our handout “Stress Relief for Your Pet” for more information.

    What Not To Do

    • □  Do not punish your dog for being afraid. Punishment will only make him more fearful. That includes punishment after the fact for destruction or house soiling caused by anxiety or fear. Animals do not understand punishment after the fact, even if it is only seconds later. This kind of destruction or house soiling is the result of panic not misbehavior.
    • □  Do not try to force your dog to experience the object or situation that is causing him to be afraid. For example, if he is afraid of bicycles and you force him to stand in place while bicycles whiz by, he will probably become more fearful, rather than less fearful of bicycles.

    ©2014 Dumb Friends League

    Category Behavior Issues
    Post Date July 5, 2014

    The canine escape artist

    (From The Dumb Friends League)

    Escaping is a serious problem for both you and your dog, as it can have tragic consequences. If your dog is running loose, he is in danger of being hit by a car, being injured in a fight with another dog, or being hurt in a number of other ways. Additionally, you are liable for any damage or injury your dog may cause and you may be required to pay a fine if he is picked up by an animal control agency. In order to resolve an escaping problem, you must determine not only how your dog is getting out, but also why he is escaping.

    Why Dogs Escape:

    Social Isolation/Frustration

    Your dog may be escaping because he is bored or lonely if:
    He is left alone for long periods of time without opportunities for interaction with you.
    His environment is relatively barren, without playmates or toys.
    He is a puppy or adolescent (under three years old) and does not have other outlets for his energy. He is a particularly active type of dog (like the herding or sporting breeds) who needs an active job in order to be happy.

    The place he goes to when he escapes provides him with interaction and fun things to do. For example, he goes to play with a neighbor’s dog or to the local schoolyard to play with the children.

    Recommendations:

    We recommend expanding your dog’s world and increasing his “people time” in the following ways:
    Walk your dog daily. It is good exercise for both of you.
    Teach your dog to fetch a ball or Frisbee and practice with him as often as possible.
    Teach your dog a few commands and/or tricks. Practice these commands and/or tricks every day for five to ten minutes.

    Take an obedience class with your dog and practice daily what you have learned.
    Provide interesting toys to keep your dog busy when you are not home. You can also rotate the toys to keep them interesting (see our handout: “Dog Toys and How to Use Them”).

    Keep your dog inside when you are unable to supervise him.
    If you work very long days, take your dog to a “doggie day care,” or ask a friend or neighbor to walk your dog.

    Sexual Roaming

    Dogs become sexually mature at around six months of age. An intact dog is motivated by a strong, natural drive to seek out a mate. It can be very difficult to prevent an intact dog from escaping, because their motivation to do so is very high.

    Recommendations:

    Have your male dog neutered. Studies show that neutering will decrease sexual roaming in about 90 percent of the cases. If, however, an intact male has established a pattern of escaping, he may continue to do so even after he’s neutered, so it is important to have him neutered as soon as possible.

    Have your female dog spayed. If your intact female dog escapes your yard while she is in heat, she’ll probably get pregnant. Millions of unwanted pets are euthanized every year. Please do not contribute to the pet overpopulation problem by allowing your female dog to breed indiscriminately.

    Fears and Phobias

    Your dog may be escaping in response to something he is afraid of if he escapes when he is exposed to loud noises, such as thunderstorms, firecrackers or construction sounds.

    Recommendations:

    Identify what is frightening your dog and desensitize him to it (see our handout: “Helping Your Dog Overcome the Fear of Thunder and Other Startling Noises”). Check with your veterinarian about giving your dog an anti-anxiety medication while you work on behavior modification.

    Leave your dog indoors when he is likely to encounter the fear stimulus. Mute noise by leaving him in a basement or windowless bathroom and leave on a television, radio or loud fan.

    Provide a “safe place” for your dog. Observe where he likes to go when he feels anxious, then allow ac- cess to that space, or create a similar space for him to use when the fear stimulus is present.

    Separation Anxiety
    Your dog may be escaping due to separation anxiety if:

    He escapes as soon as, or shortly after, you leave.
    He displays other behaviors that reflect a strong attachment to you, such as following you around, frantic greetings or reacting anxiously to your preparations to leave. He remains near your home after he has escaped.

    Factors that can precipitate a separation anxiety problem:

    There has been a change in your family’s schedule that has resulted in your dog being left alone more often.

    Your family has moved to a new house.
    There’s been a death or loss of a family member or another family pet. Your dog has recently spent time at an animal shelter or boarding kennel.

    Recommendations:

    Separation anxiety can be resolved using counter-conditioning and desensitization techniques (see our handout: “Separation Anxiety”).

    How Dogs Escape:

    Some dogs jump fences, but most actually climb them, using some part of the fence to push off from. A dog may also dig under the fence, chew through the fence, learn to open a gate or use any combination of these methods to get out of the yard. Knowing how your dog gets out will help you to modify your yard. However, until you know why your dog wants to escape, and you can decrease his motivation for doing so, you will not be able to successfully resolve the problem.

    Recommendations for Preventing Escape:

    For climbing/jumping dogs: Add an extension to your fence that tilts in toward the yard. The extension does not necessarily need to make the fence much higher, as long as it tilts inward at about a 45-degree angle.
    For digging dogs: Bury chicken wire at the base of your fence (with the sharp edges rolled inward), place large rocks at the base, or lay chain-link fencing on the ground.

    Punishment

    Never punish your dog after he is already out of the yard. Dogs associate punishment with what they are doing at the time they are punished. Punishing your dog after the fact will not eliminate the escaping behavior, but will only make him afraid to come to you.

    Never punish your dog if the escaping is a fear-related problem or is due to separation anxiety. Punishing fear-motivated behaviors will only make your dog more afraid, and thus make the problem worse.

    Chaining your dog should only be used as a last resort, and then only as a temporary measure until a more permanent solution can be found. Chaining your dog does not give him sufficient opportunity for exercise and can be dangerous if done improperly (see our handout: “Keeping Your Dog Confined to your Prop- erty”).

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    2004 Dumb Friends League. All Rights Reserved. TCEA_R04

    Category Behavior Issues
    Post Date July 5, 2014

    The barking dog

    (From The Dumb Friends League)

    “Bark! Bark! Bark!”

    Barking is the result of either anxiety or your dog being pre-genetically deposed to barking, like hounds. If you own a breed that is known to bark, then work on teaching your dog the “quiet” command (see below), provide plenty of outlets, and provide toys to keep them busy.

    Anxiety-related barking, especially if it is a new behavior, may be the result of an underlying medical issue, so the first thing you should do is take your dog to the vet. If everything checks out medically, the second thing you need to do is determine when your dog barks, for how long your dog barks, and what is causing him to bark. If you dog barks when you are not home, ask your neighbors, drive or walk around the block then watch and listen for a while, or start a tape recorder or video camera when you leave for work. Hopefully you will be able to discover which of the following anxiety related problems is the cause of your dog’s barking.

    Social Isolation / Attention Seeking

    Your dog may be barking because he’s bored and lonely if:

    •   He’s left alone for long periods of time without opportunities for interaction with you.
    •   His environment is relatively barren, without playmates or toys.
    •   He’s a puppy or adolescent (under 3 years old) and does not have other outlets for his energy.
    •   He’s a particularly active type a dog (like the herding or sporting breeds) who needs a “job” to be happy.

      Recommendations

      Expand your dog’s world and increase his “people time” in the following ways:

      •   Walk your dog daily – it’s good exercise for both of you.
      •   Teach your dog to fetch a ball or Frisbee and practice with him as often as possible.
      •   Teach your dog a few commands and/or tricks and practice them every day for five to 10

        minutes.

      •   Take an obedience class with your dog.
      •   Provide interesting toys to keep your dog busy when you’re not home (Kong-type toys filled

        with treats or busy-box toys). Also rotating the toys makes them seem new and interesting

        (see our handout: “Dog Toys and How to Use Them”).

      •   If your dog is barking to get your attention, make sure he has sufficient time with you on a daily basis (petting, grooming, playing, and exercising), so he doesn’t have to resort to misbehaving to get your attention.
      •   Keep your dog inside when you’re unable to supervise him.
      •   Take your dog to work with you every now and then, if possible.
      •   If you work very long hours, take him to a doggie daycare or have a friend or neighbor walk and/or play with him.
      •   Never give your dog attention while he is barking. Ignore him until he stops for at least three seconds, then reward with attention or treats.

        Frustration/Learned

    Your dog may be barking due to frustration or as a learned behavior if:

    •   The barking occurs in the presence of “strangers” seen through the window and/or fence or when on leash. It may include the mail carrier, children walking to and from school, and other dogs or neighbors in adjacent yards.
    •   Your dog’s posture while he’s barking appears threatening – tail held high and ears up and forward.
    •   You’ve encouraged your dog to be responsive to people and noises outside.

      Recommendations

      •   Teach your dog the “quiet” command. When he begins to bark at a passer-by, interrupt him, without calling his name or startling him. You can also wait for him to take a breath. The moment he is quiet reward him with a high value treat. You can also use clicker training to teach the “quiet” command by clicking and treating when he is quiet (see our handout: “Dog Clicker Training”). The more times he is rewarded for being quiet the more often he will be quiet. Once he is starting to understand the behavior of being quiet, you can start to use the “quiet” command. Avoid yelling “quiet” before your dog actually knows the command.
      •   Counter-condition your dog to the stimulus that triggers the barking. Teach him that strangers are actually friends and that good things happen to him when these people are around. By giving him a treat when he see someone new, your dog will learn to association good things and be less likely to bark. Use a high value food reward such as little pieces of cheese or meat and every time your dog sees a new person, reward him with these high value treats. It may take several sessions before a person can come close without your dog barking. When a person does finally get close enough without your dog barking, have them feed him the treats or throw a toy for him. In order for this technique to work however, you’ll have to make sure your dog doesn’t see new people between sessions.
      •   Limit the dog’s access to views that might be causing him to bark when you are not home, by closing the blinds or curtains, especially if working on counter-conditioning.
      •   If your dog barks while inside the house when you’re home, redirect his attention by having him obey a command, such as “sit” or “down,” and reward him with praise and a treat.
      •   Don’t inadvertently encourage this type of barking by enticing your dog to bark at things he hears or sees outside.
      •   Have your dog neutered (or spayed if your dog is a female) to decrease frustration.

        Fears and Phobias

        Your dog’s barking may be a response to something he is afraid of if:

    •   The barking occurs when he’s exposed to loud noises, such as thunderstorms, firecrackers, or construction equipment.
    •   Your dog’s posture indicates fear – ears back, tail held low.

      Recommendations

     Identify what is frightening your dog and desensitize him to it (see out handouts: “Helping Your Dog Overcome the Fear of Thunder and Other Startling Noises” and “Stress Relief for Your Pet”).

     Mute noise from outside by leaving your dog in a basement or windowless bathroom and leave on a television, radio, or loud fan. Block off your dog’s access to outdoor views that might be causing a fear response, by closing curtains or doors to certain rooms.

    Separation Anxiety

    Your dog may be barking due to separation anxiety if:

    •   The barking occurs only when you’re gone and starts as soon as, or shortly after, you leave.
    •   Your dog displays other behaviors that reflect a strong attachment to you, such as following you from room to room, frantic greetings or reacting anxiously to your preparations to leave.
    •   Your dog has recently experienced a change in the family’s schedule that results in his being left alone more often; a move to a new house; the death or loss of a family member or another family pet; a period at an animal shelter or boarding kennel.

      Recommendations

      Separation anxiety may be resolved using counter-conditioning and desensitization techniques (see our handouts: “Separation Anxiety” and “Stress Relief for Your Pet”).

      What not to do

      We do not recommend the use of bark collars. Bark collars are specially designed collars that deliver an aversive whenever your dog barks. There are several different types of bark collars: citronella collars, aversive sound collars, and electric shock collars. However if your dog is barking due to anxiety, using any form of aversive will not solve the problem; rather it will make the anxiety worse.

      We especially DO NOT recommend an electric shock collar. The shock is painful for your dog and can result in redirected aggression towards people or other pets that may be around the dog when shocked.

      The other main drawback of bark collars is that they do not address the underlying cause of barking. You may be able to eliminate the barking itself, but symptom substitution may also occur, resulting in your dog digging, escaping, or becoming destructive or even aggressive.

    ©2014 Dumb Friends League

    Category Behavior Issues
    Post Date July 5, 2014

    Teaching your dog not to jump up

    (From The Dumb Friends League)

    Definition:

    Teaching Your Dog to Not Jump Up

    Rather than teach the dog to “not” do something, we will ask him to do something he knows how to do that is incompatible with jumping up on you or someone else. You may use “sit” or “touch” or some other behavior as your alternate incompatible behavior. Your dog must have the alternate behavior on cue in order to do this.

    Practical uses:

    Use when your dog is jumping up on you or on someone else.

    How to teach:

    1. Using sit as the alternate, incompatible behavior: when your dog starts to jump up, give your cue, “sit.” Click and treat (C/T) when the dog sits. If the dog jumps up and does not sit, stand still and wait. Do not repeat the command. Wait for the dog to sit, and C/T when he does. You may want to toss the treat on the floor so the dog gets up and you have another chance to give the “sit” cue. Practicing with other people: Hold your dog’s leash or put him on the tether. Be sure you do not pull on or put tension on the leash. Have another person approach your dog. As the person gets within the dog’s range, say “sit.” Click and have the person treat. If the dog jumps up and does not sit, have the person stand still and wait. Do not repeat the command. Wait for the dog to sit — click and have the person give the treat.
    2. Using “touch” as the alternate, incompatible behavior: when your dog starts to jump up, give your verbal cue and your hand signal for “touch.” C/T when the dog touches his nose to your hand. If the dog jumps up and does not “touch,” stand sill and wait with your hand extended. Do not repeat the command. Wait for the dog to touch, and C/T when he does. Practicing with other people: hold your dog’s leash or put him on the tether. Be sure you do not pull on or put tension on the leash. Have another person approach your dog. As the person approaches, have them present their hand and say “touch.” Click and have the person treat. If the dog jumps up and does not touch, have the person stand still and wait, keeping the target hand extended. Do not repeat the command. Wait for the dog to “touch.” Click and have the person give the treat.

    Moving on:

    • ·  What you are working toward is having your dog offer your chosen alternative, incompatible behavior whenever he is approached by someone, without even having to give a verbal cue. In other words, the “cue” becomes the approach of a human. This requires consistency on the part of every person approaching the dog, so you need to enlist the help of all friends, family members and guests that interact with the dog.
    • ·  Variable Schedule of Reinforcement – stick with a continuous schedule of reinforcement for the initial approach. You can have the person toss the treat and then ask for the behavior several more times, rewarding on a variable schedule of reinforcement.

    Tips:

    • ·  When a dog jumps up on you, he wants your attention; remember that HE IS RECEIVING ATTENTION if you push him away, knee him in the chest, or step on his hind feet and is, therefore, being rewarded for jumping up (he is getting what he wants).
    • ·  When the dog realizes that he gets NO attention from you while he is jumping up, but does get rewarded when he stops jumping up and sits or targets, he will stop jumping up and begin to offer the alternate behavior.
    • ·  If the dog jumps up, do not turn away, just stand still and wait for the dog to offer the alternate behavior.
    • ·  Be patient and persistent; often the dog has been successful in getting attention by jumping up for quite some time, and it may take him a while to learn that this method no longer works.
    • ·  Be consistent. Every member of the household and everyone who enters the house MUST practice this technique with the dog.
    • ·  Remember that once you have taught him to come and sit quietly for attention, you must reward this behavior. Be careful not to ignore him when he comes and sits politely waiting for a reward.
    Category Jindo Info & Dog Tips
    Post Date July 5, 2014

    Teaching your dog to ‘watch me’

    (From The Dumb Friends League)

    Definition:

    Teaching Your Dog to “Watch Me”

    “Watch me, look at my face, and focus on me.”

    Practical uses:

    “Watch Me” is a useful behavior when you want to get your dog’s focus on you instead of something like another dog, a squirrel, or other temptations.

    How to teach:

    Do something to get your dog’s attention—move quickly or make a noise with your mouth—when the dog looks at your face, click and treat (C/T). Use different actions/sounds to get the dog to look at you and don’t always reward in the same body position (for example, make sure the dog isn’t always sitting when you C/T).

    Get in the habit, even when not training, to C/T whenever your dog looks at you. This rewards “checking in” and encourages your dog to look to you for direction and guidance.

    Adding the cue:

    When the dog is offering the behavior (looking at your face without your having to do something to get her attention), begin saying the cue word (“ watch me” or “look”) as she looks at you, so that the dog associates the behavior with the word.

    In your next training session, start by saying the cue word before the dog looks at you. After a few repetitions, wait for the dog to look away, and then use your cue word. If she looks at you, you know she understands the cue.

    Moving On:

    • Gradually increase the length of time your dog looks at you before you click. Work up to about 30 seconds of attention. Increase the time gradually, just a couple seconds at a time, over multiple sessions.
    • If the dog looks away before you C/T, ask for the “watch me” again, but make it shorter so the dog succeeds. Make sure the dog has at least five successes before you try a longer duration again.
    • Variable Schedule of Reinforcement – you have been using a “continuous schedule of reinforcement” which means the dog gets a treat every time he performs the behavior. Now you’re read y to move to a variable schedule of reinforcement, meaning he only gets a treat sometimes. Only C/T every third, sixth, second, fourth, or tenth time he performs the behavior.
    • Once your dog is performing the behavior reliably on cue (i.e., he will do the behavior when you give the verb al cue at least 90% of the time) on a variable schedule of reinforcement, you don’t really need the clicker any more for this behavior. You should still reward your dog often and variably with praise or a food treat, but you don’t need the clicker any more for this behavior!

    Tips:

    • Remember that direct eye contact can be threatening to a dog. Looking directly into your dog’s eyes may cause her to look away as a gesture of appeasement to you. Smile at your dog; if necessary, look at the top of her head or her ear rather than directly into her eyes.
    • Make sure you are standing erect – not bending at the waist – so that you are not “looming” over the dog. If you are working with a small dog, consider getting on your knees (still keeping your upper body erect) or putting the dog on a bench or table.

    ©2014 Dumb Friends League

    Category Jindo Info & Dog Tips
    Post Date July 5, 2014
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