Definition:

Teaching Your Dog to “Stay”

“Stay where you are until I return and release you.”

Practical uses:

Stays are useful when you need your dog to be still while you do something else. They can also help to teach your dog self-control and independence.

How to teach:

Start in a quiet place with few or no distractions. “Stay” begins as an extended sit (see “Teaching Your Dog to ‘Sit'”). Stand directly in front of your dog and give the sit cue; gradually increase the time before you click and treat (C/T). Throw the treat so that the dog must get up to retrieve it. Do not step away from your dog — stay within a foot of your dog until he can remain in the stay position for at least 30 seconds at least nine out of ten times that you ask him to.

Adding the cue and moving on:

Begin using the cue word “stay” right after you say “sit.” Take one step away from the dog (remain facing him) and after two seconds step back to your original position and C/T (always throw the treat so that the click also acts as a “release,” giving permission to the dog to get up out of the stay). Again gradually increase the time before you C/T to 30 seconds, never moving more than one step from your dog. You should also begin using a release word, like “okay” or “free” as you throw the treat.

If the dog breaks his stay, gently return him to the original spot, then C/T for a shorter stay (i.e, if he broke at ten seconds, be sure to C/T at six or seven seconds this time). Make sure he “succeeds” (doesn’t break his stay) at least five more times before you begin increasing the time again. The idea is to have lots of successful stays that can be rewarded and few breaks, which are not rewarded.

Tips:

• ·  When your dog has learned to stay with you close by, you can gradually begin to increase the distance you move away from him; but when you increase distance, decrease time! For example, you might gradually increase the length of the stay to 30 seconds when you are one step away. Then take two steps away, but C/T after five seconds, and gradually build to 30 seconds before increasing the distance again. Take it slow!
• ·  Always return to the dog to C/T or release from the stay. DO NOT call your dog to you out of a “stay” as this teaches him that breaking the stay gets rewarded.

• ·  Progress to moving around a bit (not always directly in front of the dog) while the dog is staying and then returning to stand beside the dog for varying lengths of time before you C/T him.
• ·  Work on longer duration stays (up to three minutes) of short distances.
• ·  Variable Schedule of Reinforcement – for shorter duration/distance stays that the dog is doing reliably, start a variable schedule of reinforcement. As you increase time and or distance, C/T on a continuous schedule for the more difficult behaviors.
• ·  When on a continuous schedule of reinforcement, the click is the release. Once you go to a variable reinforcement you will need to use your release cue to let the dog know when he may get up out of the stay position. Remember to always return to the dog before you release him.
• ·  Once your dog is performing the behavior reliably on cue to your satisfaction (i.e., he will stay for two minutes at a distance of 20 feet, or whatever criteria you set, at least 90% of the time) on a variable schedule of reinforcement, you don’t really need the clicker any more for this behavior. You should still reward your dog often and variably with praise and/or a food treat, but you don’t need the clicker any more — until you’re ready to teach a new behavior!

  Adding Distractions:

  • ·  Once your dog is performing the stay at the time and distance you require, you can start to add distractions. While the dog is on a stay, bounce a ball, ring the doorbell, or have someone run by. When you first add distractions, be sure to make the other elements of the stay — time and distance –easier; for example, stand very close to the dog and C/T immediately after the distraction if the dog holds the stay.
  • ·  If you have been training in a quiet location with few distractions, start practicing in locations with more distractions. If possible, increase the environmental distractions gradually. So if you have been training in your living room, move to the back yard, then the front yard, then a quiet park, then a busier park. And as always, make it easier for the dog to succeed (shorten time and distance criteria) when the environmental distractions are more difficult.

� 2010 Dumb Friends League. All Rights Reserved.

Definition:

“Sit where you are.”

Practical uses:

Teaching Your Dog to “Sit”

Have your dog sit before you set down his food dish, put on his leash, let him out the door, pet him, etc. This concept is called “say please” and can help to prevent many common problems such as door-darting, jumping up on people, and pestering for attention. It also helps him learn that doing what you ask is always the best choice and the fastest way of getting what he wants. When in doubt, SIT! This stops whatever inappropriate behavior he may be engaged in.

How to teach:

Start in a low-distraction area that is familiar to your dog, and have your dog on leash. You can stand on the end of your leash or tether him to something heavy if you want to have your hands free. Wait for the dog to sit, and when he does, click and treat (C/T). In this case, it is best to throw the treat on the floor so that the dog has to stand up to get the treat (make sure he sees it). Wait again for the dog to sit, and C/T when he does.

Adding the cue:

When the dog is offering the behavior (sitting and looking to you in anticipation of the C/T), begin saying the cue word “sit” as she sits, so the dog associates the behavior with the word. Do this about 20 times over two different training sessions.

In your next training session, start by saying the cue word as the dog sits. After a few repetitions, say the cue word before she sits. Now you have a cue!

Moving On:

• ·  Gradually increase the length of time your dog sits before you click. Work up to about one minute of sitting. Increase the time gradually, just a couple seconds at a time, over multiple sessions. If the dog gets up before you C/T, ask for the “sit” again, but make it shorter so the dog succeeds. Make sure the dog has at least five successes before you try a longer duration again. This is the beginning of the “stay.”
• ·  Variable Schedule of Reinforcement – you have been using a “continuous schedule of reinforcement” which means the dog gets a treat every time he performs the behavior. Now you’re ready to move to a variable schedule of reinforcement, meaning he only gets a treat sometimes. Only C/T every third, sixth, second, fourth, or tenth time he performs the behavior.
• ·  Once your dog is performing the behavior reliably on cue (i.e., he will do the behavior at least 90% of the time when you give the verbal cue) on a variable schedule of reinforcement, you don’t really need the clicker any more for this behavior. You should still reward your dog often and variably with praise and food treats, but you don’t need the clicker any more — until you’re ready to teach a new behavior!

  Tips:

• ·  If he sits only part way down the first time, you may “shape” his behavior by rewarding him for a partial sit the first few times, then not rewarding him until he moves successively closer to a full sit.
• ·  Some breeds, such as greyhounds, don’t sit readily. If your dog doesn’t like the sit position, you may want to substitute another stationary position, such as down.

  Written by the Dumb Friends League Behavior Department. Copyright owned by the Dumb Friends League

Definition:

“Relax, be calm.”

Practical uses:

Teaching Your Dog to “Settle”

“Settle” should be more relaxed than a “Down-stay” or “Sit-stay”; the dog need not maintain a specific position. You can use it in the waiting room at the veterinarian, or when you are out on a walk and stop to chat with a neighbor.

How to teach:

• ·  Sit in a chair with your dog on leash. Step on the leash about 12-15 inches (for a medium-size dog) from where it hooks to your dog’s collar. The dog should have just enough leash length to allow him to sit, stand, or lie down, but not enough to allow him to jump up on you.
• ·  Ignore the dog. It is his job to decide how he is most comfortable with the length of leash you have given him. Most dogs will decide to sit or lie down after just a few minutes. As long as the dog is not struggling against the leash or pestering you, click/treat (C/T).

  Adding the cue:

  When the dog starts to offer the desired behavior (relaxed body position, not pestering or struggling) in response to your standing on the leash, say a cue word, “settle.” Do this about 20 times over two different training sessions.

  In your next training session, start by saying the cue word as you step on the leash. Gradually “back up” the cue until you are saying it before the dog performs the behavior.

  Moving on:

• ·  Gradually increase the length of time your dog must “settle” before you click. Work up to about 30 seconds of relaxed body postures/non-pestering. Increase the time gradually, just a couple seconds at a time, over multiple sessions.
• ·  If the dog begins pestering before you C/T, ask for the “settle” again, but reward for a shorter duration so the dog succeeds. Make sure the dog has at least five successes before you try a longer duration again.

• ·  Variable Schedule of Reinforcement – you have been using a “continuous schedule of reinforcement” which means the dog gets a treat every time he performs the behavior. Now you’re ready to move to a variable schedule of reinforcement, meaning he only gets a treat sometimes. Only C/T every third, sixth, second, fourth, or tenth time he performs the behavior.
• ·  Once your dog is performing the behavior reliably on cue (i.e., he will do the behavior at least 90% of the time when you give the verbal cue) on a variable schedule of reinforcement, you don’t really need the clicker any more for this behavior. You should still reward your dog often and variably with praise or a food treat, but you don’t need the clicker any more — until you’re ready to teach a new behavior!

  Tips:

• ·  Start with a two- to three-second settle and work up to five minutes or so. For dogs under six months of age, a two- to three-minute settle is long enough.
• ·  For longer settles, praise or treat (don’t click) several times during the settle, but have the dog maintain the settle.

� 2010 Dumb Friends League. All Rights Reserved.

Definition:

Teaching Your Dog to “Leave It”

“Leave whatever you are doing and look at me.”

Practical uses:

“Leave it” is useful when you want your dog to stop doing something, whether that is sniffing at someone or something, barking or licking. The dog should immediately stop whatever she is doing and look to you for a reward.

How to teach:

Put a treat in your closed hand, making sure she sees the treat; then put your closed fist near her. She will sniff and lick your hand. Keep your hand still, and do not pull your hand away from the dog (warning: your hand may get slimed!). As soon as she pulls her nose back, click and treat (C/T), giving her a treat from your other hand. The value of the treat you give the dog should be equal to or higher than the treat you are holding in your fist.

Adding a cue:

When the dog starts offering the behavior – i.e., when presented with your closed fist, she pulls her head back, or does not sniff at your hand — you can begin to use a cue word like “leave it” so that the dog associates the behavior with the word. Do this about 20 times over two different training sessions.

In your next training session, start by saying the cue word as you offer your closed fist. Now you have a cue!

Moving on:

• ·  When your dog is reliable at leaving the treat in your hand, try the exercise with the treat on a chair. Cover the treat with your hand if she tries to take it. Remember to reward from the other hand.
• ·  Next try the exercise with the treat on the floor. Cover the treat with your foot if she tries to take it.

  Tips:

• ·  ALWAYS C/T your dog when she leaves it. This is the one command that you will not move to a variable schedule of reinforcement on. She must learn that leaving what she is currently interested in always results in something better!

  Written by the Dumb Friends League Animal Behavior Department, revised April 2010. Copyright owned by the Dumb Friends League

Definition:

Teaching Your Dog to “Drop it”

“Drop whatever is in your mouth, and I’ll give you something even better!”

Practical uses:

“Drop it” is useful when your dog picks up something in his mouth that he shouldn’t have – your shoe, your child’s favorite toy, or a chicken bone, for example. It’s also useful for those dogs that grab the leash in their mouths when being walked and for those mouthy dogs that want to grab at your hands, arms and clothing in play.

Many dogs learn that when their owner is yelling “drop it” they are going to be deprived of the goodie they have in their mouths, so they will gulp it down faster. It is imperative that, to your dog, this command means he has a chance to get something even better, so he will willingly let go of the forbidden object. This could even mean the difference between life and death for your dog.

How to teach:

Give your dog a toy or chewie. You want to start with something your dog is interested in having in his mouth, but not a really high-value item that he is not going to want to give up. Wait for him to drop the item and, when he does, click and treat (C/T), and pick up the item. You may want to throw the treat a few feet away so he is busy getting the treat and doesn’t try to grab for the item at the same time you do. Give the item back to the dog and repeat 10-12 times.

Adding the cue:

Begin saying your cue word, “drop it,” as the dog drops the toy. Continue for two to three more sessions of 10-12 C/Ts. In your next session, use the “drop it” cue just before the dog drops the item. C/T when the dog drops the item.

Moving On:

• ·  Once your dog is performing the behavior on cue, you can start using a higher value item — for some dogs that might be a raw hide, a tennis ball, or a bone.
• ·  For dogs that love to play fetch, the reward for “drop it” can be throwing the ball or toy.
• ·  Variable Schedule of Reinforcement – you have been using a “continuous schedule of

  reinforcement” which means the dog gets a treat every time he performs the behavior. Now you’re ready to move to a variable schedule of reinforcement, meaning he only gets a treat sometimes. Only C/T every third, sixth, second, fourth, or tenth time he performs the behavior. Do, however, return the item to the dog every time (except the last time when you end the session — make sure he gets a C/T for that one!).

• ·  Once your dog is performing the behavior reliably on cue (i.e., he will do the behavior at least 90% of the time when you give the verbal cue) on a variable schedule of reinforcement, you don’t really need the clicker any more for this behavior. You should still reward your dog often and variably with praise and a food treat, but you don’t need the clicker any more — until you’re ready to teach a new behavior!

  Written by the Dumb Friends League Behavior Department; edited April, 2010. Copyright owned by the Dumb Friends League

Definition:

Teaching Your Dog “Down”

“Lie Down.” (We recommend using the cue word “off” rather than “down” for “Get off of me” or for “Get off the bed.”)

Practical uses:

Down is the best, most comfortable position for your dog to stay in for any length of time. Down (and especially down-stay) is a wonderful calming maneuver and can also help teach your dog to be more independent.

How to teach:
Different dogs will do better with different methods of teaching this behavior. Here are three ways of teaching the behavior. You may want to experiment to find the best method for you and your dog.

1. Snapshot training: In this method, you simply wait for the dog to lie down – something he does naturally multiple times a day. You must be ready with your clicker and treat at all times in order to “capture” this behavior and mark it. You may be able to speed up this process by trying on of the following techniques:
   • Start in a small room with no toys or distractions (like a bathroom) with your dog. Have his bed or something he likes to lie on nearby. Don’t interact with him and just wait until he lies down, then click/ treat (C/T). Throw the treat so that he must get up to get it, then ignore him again until he lies down – C/T.
   • If your dog enjoys chewing on an object, use his favorite chewy and give it to him. Most dogs will lie down to chew, so when he lies down, click and throw the treat, so he gets up to get the treat.
2. Shaping: Get your clicker out and ask your dog for a few of the behaviors he knows how to do. Then wait for him to offer a new behavior – any behavior (if you’re lucky, it might be a down!). C/T for any new behavior he offers about three times. Then stop C/Ting that behavior and wait for him to again offer a new behavior, but this time, C/T only for a down. He may offer several behaviors before he gets to down, but since down is a fairly natural position, you shouldn’t have to wait long. Don’t let him get too frustrated though. If he doesn’t offer a down in a minute or so, C/T a behavior he is offering a few times and then end the game and try again later.
3. Luring: With the dog sitting, hold the treat right in front of his nose. Bring the treat straight down between the dog’s legs to the floor. The dog’s head should follow the treat down to the floor. Pull the treat forward along the floor, and the rest of his body should follow naturally. If pulling the treat forward makes him stand up to reach the treat, try pulling it back toward his chest. As soon as his elbows touch the floor, C/T. When using the lure method, make sure you fade out the lure quickly; otherwise your dog will only learn to follow your hand.

Adding the cue:

When the dog is offering the behavior (lying down and looking to you in anticipation of the C/T), begin saying the cue word, “down” as she lies down, so the dog associates the behavior with the word. Do this about 20 times over two different training sessions.

In your next training session, say the cue word before the dog lies down. If she lies down then she understands the cue, if not go back to saying the cue word as she lies down for a few more repetitions.

Moving On:

1. Gradually increase the length of time your dog is in the down position before you click. Work up to about one minute before clicking. Increase the time gradually, just a couple seconds at a time, over multiple sessions. If your dog gets up before you C/T, ask for the “down” again, but make it shorter so the dog succeeds. Make sure the dog has at least five successes before you try a longer duration again. This is the beginning of the “down stay.”
2. Once your dog is responding to the cue, start giving the cue sometimes when the dog is standing and sometimes when the dog is sitting.
3. Variable Schedule of Reinforcement – you have been using a “continuous schedule of reinforcement” which means the dog gets a treat every time she performs the behavior. Now you’re ready to move to a variable schedule of reinforcement, meaning she only gets a treat sometimes. Only C/T every third, sixth, second, fourth, or tenth time she performs the behavior.
4. Once your dog is performing the behavior reliably on cue (i.e., he will do the behavior at least 90% of the time when you give the verbal cue) on a variable schedule of reinforcement, you don’t really need the clicker any more for this behavior. You should still reward your dog often and variably with praise or a food treat, but you don’t need the clicker any more for this behavior.

Tips:

• If she lies down only part w ay the first time, you m ay shape this behavior by rewarding her for a partial down the first few times, then not rewarding her until she moves successively closer to a full down.
• When you C/T, throw the treat so the dog must get up to eat it. That w ay she can offer the down again.
• Once you have moved to a variable schedule of reinforcement you m ay start to use it to shape a “better” behavior. For example, if you w ant the dog to respond more quickly to your cue, then C/T only for the quicker responses.

©2014 Dumb Friends League

Definition:

“Come to me.”

Practical uses:

Teaching your dog to “Come”

Coming when called is one of the most important and useful commands you can teach your dog. In an emergency, a reliable “come” or recall can save your dog’s life, but most of the time it’s just convenient to be able to get your dog to come when called. Because it is such an important behavior, use your best treats and most enthusiastic praise for successful recalls.

How to teach:

Make sure your dog understands the clicker game (see handout “Getting Started with the Clicker”).

Start training in a quiet place with few distractions. Be 100 percent sure he will come to you. With the dog a short distance from you and on leash, say his name. When he looks or turns in your direction, click and say your recall cue word (choose a word that does not already have an association for your dog). He will come the rest of the way to you because he knows that click means a treat is coming. When he reaches you, take his collar in one hand, and with the other hand provide a steady delivery of high-value treats (something he doesn’t get every day, but really loves) and praise, petting, play or other rewards he really likes for at least 20-30 seconds (time yourself; this will feel like a long time). This is called an “extended- duration” reward, and you want to do this EVERY time you are practicing the come. We want the dog to understand that come means come all the way to me, and we want to desensitize him to having his collar grabbed. We also want him to know that coming when called always results in the most wonderful things. Gradually increase the distance between you and the dog when you give the cue to about six feet or the length of your leash.

Practice one recall like this two or three times a day (remember to do your extended duration reward every time), every day for one week before moving on. Within a few days, your dog should be coming enthusiastically every time. Be sure you only say your recall cue word once each time you practice.

Moving on:

• ·  During the second week of practicing two to three recalls a day, start increasing the distance from which you call your dog. You should use a long line to keep control of the dog. If you call and the dog does not come, do not repeat the command. Wait a few seconds and then call your dog’s name. If he looks at you, click and call him to you. He should come all the way to you for his 20 — 30 seconds of high-value rewards. You many need to temporarily decrease the distance in order to give the dog several successes before asking for more distance again.
• ·  After two weeks of practicing this type of recall, your dog should be coming every time you call. If not, go back to a distance where your dog does come reliably and practice from there for several days before increasing the distance again. You may also want to think about whether your rewards are rewarding enough from the dog’s point of view.
• ·  Now you can reduce your practice recalls to once daily, while you increase distance and distractions (see below). If at any point your dog is having trouble with distractions and/or distance, go back to practicing two to three times daily where you are 100 percent sure your dog will come. Be sure to ask for a recall at least several times a week for the first three months, always rewarding with the extended-duration reward.

Game 1: One-upmanship Comes

Come Games

Working with two people, have one person hold the dog. The second person should be around ten feet away (you can make it further as your dog gets better at this game) and should call the dog. Person #2 praises and treats generously when the dog comes. Person #1 now calls the dog back and tries to “outdo” person #1’s praise. Continue calling the dog back and forth, competing with each other for who can give the best rewards. Make sure the dog is enjoying the rewards and is not frightened by effusive praise.

Game 2: Come and Fetch the Treat

Use a food treat that is large enough so that your dog can see it when it is tossed on the ground, such as cheese puff balls. Roll the treat. As soon as she gets the treat, call her back to you. When she gets to you, click and roll a treat in the other direction. Repeat. Occasionally have your dog come all the way to you, click and do your collar grab as you give her an extended-duration reward (20 seconds or more of praise and treats).

Game 3: Come While Out on a Walk

While out walking your dog on a leash, in a happy voice say “Duffy, COME,” while you quickly back away — your movement will entice him to come toward you. When he reaches you, stop, click and touch his collar as you deliver an extended-duration reward. You can do this several times when you are out on a walk. Gradually progress to giving the command when he is distracted by something else (such as another dog walking by or a squirrel).

Game 4: Hide and Seek

Have someone hold your dog in one room while you hide out of sight behind a piece of furniture or around a corner. Call your dog to find you. Make it easy at first, so she’ll easily find you, then gradually make it harder. Use your extended-duration reward and/or play a favorite game when she finds you.

Written by the Dumb Friends League Animal Behavior Department, revised April 2010. Copyright owned by the Dumb Friends League

Has your pet urinated or defecated in your house, leaving “scent marks” on your floor or furniture? To keep your pet from continuing to eliminate in these areas of your house, you will need to thoroughly clean the soiled areas.

• Find all soiled areas using your nose and eyes. A black-light bulb is a helpful tool that will usually show even old urine stains, due to the fact that the urine contains fluorescent molecules that glow. To use a black-light bulb simply turn out all lights in the room and scan all areas of the room. Once you have identified the soiled areas, lightly outline them with chalk.
• Once located, clean the soiled areas appropriately to remove the odors (see below).

  Methods to Avoid

  You should avoid using steam cleaners to clean urine odors from carpet or upholstery. The heat will set the odor and stain in by bonding the proteins into any man-made fibers. You should also avoid using cleaning chemicals, especially those with strong odors, such as ammonia or vinegar. From your pet’s perspective, these don’t effectively eliminate or cover the urine odor and may actually encourage your pet to urinate in the area again.

  To Clean Washable Items

• Soak the item in an enzymatic cleaner, found at your local pet supply stores. Read and follow the instructions carefully, testing a small area for staining first.
• Machine wash as usual. If possible, it’s best to air dry these items.
• If you can still see the stain, use a stain remover and then wash again.
• Once washed, keep the items away from your pet. If you can’t move an item, like the couch for instance, then a good way to discourage your pet from soiling on it is to cover the piece of furniture with a vinyl, flannel-backed tablecloth. They’re machine washable, inexpensive, and unattractive to your pet.

  To Clean Carpeted Areas and Upholstery

• Soak up as much of the urine as possible with a combination of newspaper and paper towels. The more fresh urine you can remove before it dries, especially from carpet, the simpler it will be to remove the odor. Place a thick layer of paper towels on the wet spot and cover that with a thick layer of newspaper. Stand on this padding for about a minute. Remove the padding and repeat until the area is barely damp.
• Rinse the “accident zone” thoroughly with clean, cool water. After rinsing, remove as much of the water as possible by blotting or by using a “wet-vac,” “shop-vac,” or “extractor”.
• Once the area is really clean, you should then use a high-quality enzymatic cleaner available at pet supply stores. Read and follow the instructions carefully, testing the affected area for staining first.
• However, if you’ve previously used a non-enzymatic cleaner, a steamer, or chemicals of any kind on the area, then enzymatic cleaners won’t be effective. Even if you haven’t used chemicals recently, any trace of a non-protein-based substance will weaken the effect of the enzymatic cleaner. The cleaner will use up its “energy” on the old cleaners instead of on the protein stains you want removed. In order to effectively clean these areas you will want to clean them again, using an oxidizing cleaner, also found at pet supply stores, which will break up any residue left behind by the old cleaners or chemicals used.

• To verify that you effectively cleaned the soiled area, scan the area with a black-light bulb.
• If the area no longer glows, but still looks stained after it’s completely dry from extracting and neutralizing, try any good carpet stain remover.
• If urine has soaked down into the padding underneath your carpet, your job will be more difficult. You may need to remove and replace that portion of the carpet and padding.
• Using the suggestions in our aversives, positive reinforcement, and house soiling handouts, make the “accident zone” unattractive, the appropriate “bathroom area” attractive, and teach your pet where you want him to eliminate instead. Remember, it took time to build the bad habit, and it will take time to replace that habit with a new, more acceptable behavior. Be patient and give your pet a lot of encouragement!

  To Clean Floors and Walls

  If the wood on your furniture, walls, baseboard, or floor is discolored, then the varnish or paint has been affected by the acid in the urine. You may need to remove and replace the layer of varnish or paint. Employees at your local hardware or building supply store can help you identify and match your needs with appropriate removers and replacements. Washable enamel paints and some washable wallpapers, may respond favorable to enzymatic cleaners. Read the instructions carefully before using products and test in an invisible area.

©2014 Dumb Friends League