Resources :

  • Jump To:
    •

    Housetraining a puppy

    (From The Dumb Friends League)

    Housetraining a puppy requires time, vigilance, patience and commitment. By following the procedures outlined below, you can minimize house soiling incidents, but virtually every puppy will have an accident in the house (more likely several). This is part of raising a puppy and should be expected. The more consistent you are in following the basic housetraining procedures, the faster your puppy will learn acceptable behavior. It may take several weeks to housetrain your puppy and with some of the smaller breeds it might take longer. A puppy can usually be considered reliably housetrained when it has not had any accidents for two to three months.

    Establish a Routine

    • Your puppy will do best if he is taken outside on a consistent and frequent schedule. He should have the opportunity to eliminate after waking up from a nap, after playing, and after eating.
    • Choose a location not too far from the door to be the bathroom spot. Always take your puppy, on a leash, directly to the bathroom spot. Taking him for a walk or playing with him directly after he has eliminated will help him to associate good things with elimination. If you clean up an accident in the house, take the soiled rags or paper towels and leave them in the bathroom spot. The smell will help your puppy recognize the area as the place he is supposed to eliminate. While your puppy is eliminating, use a word or phrase, like “go potty”, that you can eventually use before he eliminates to remind him what he’s supposed to be doing.
    • Praise your puppy lavishly every time he eliminates outdoors. You can even give him a treat. You must praise him or treat him immediately after he’s finished eliminating, not after he comes back inside the house. This step is vital; because rewarding your puppy for eliminating outdoors is the only way he’ll know that this is an appropriate behavior.
    • If possible, put your puppy on a regular feeding schedule. Depending on their age, puppies usually need to be fed three or four times a day. Feeding your puppy at the same times each day will make it more likely that he’ll eliminate at consistent times as well. This makes housetraining easier, for both of you.

      Supervise, Supervise, Supervise

      Don’t give your puppy an opportunity to soil in the house. He should be watched at all times when he is indoors. You can tether him to you with a leash or use baby gates to keep him in your view. Watch for signs that he needs to eliminate, like sniffing around or circling. When you see these signs, immediately take him outside, on a leash, to his bathroom spot. If he eliminates, praise him lavishly and reward him with a treat.

      Confinement

      When you’re unable to watch your puppy closely, he should be confined to an area small enough that he won’t want to eliminate there. It should be just big enough for him to comfortably stand, lie down, and turn around. This area could be a portion of a bathroom or laundry room, blocked off with boxes or baby gates. Or you may want to crate train your puppy and use the crate to confine him (see our handout: “Crate Training Your Dog”). If your puppy has spent several hours in confinement, make sure to take him out directly to his bathroom spot before doing anything else.

    Oops!

    Expect your puppy to have an accident in the house – it’s a normal part of housetraining.

    • When you catch him in the act of eliminating in the house, do something to interrupt him, like make a startling noise (be careful not to scare him). Immediately take him to his bathroom spot, praise him, and give him a treat if he finishes eliminating there.
    • Don’t punish your puppy for eliminating in the house. If you find a soiled area, it’s too late to administer a correction. Do nothing but clean it up. Rubbing your puppy’s nose in it, taking him to the spot, and scolding him (or any other punishment or discipline) will only make him afraid of you or afraid to eliminate in your presence. Animals don’t understand punishment after the fact, even if it’s only seconds later. Punishment will do more harm than good.
    • Cleaning the soiled area is very important because puppies are highly motivated to continue soiling in areas that smell like urine or feces (see our handout: “Successful Cleaning to Remove Pet Odors and Stains”).

      It’s extremely important that you use the supervision and confinement procedures outlined above to minimize the number of accidents. If you allow your puppy to eliminate frequently in the house, he’ll get confused about where he’s supposed to eliminate, which will prolong the housetraining process.

      Paper Training

      A puppy under 6 months of age cannot be expected to control his bladder for more than a few hours at a time. If you have to be away from home for more than four or five hours a day, this may not be the best time for you to get a puppy. If you’re already committed to having a puppy and have to be away from home for long periods of time, you’ll need to train your puppy to eliminate in a specific place indoors. Be aware, however that doing so can prolong the process of teaching him to eliminate outdoors. Teaching your puppy to eliminate on newspaper may create a life-long surface preference, meaning that he may, even in adulthood, eliminate on any newspaper he finds lying around the house.

      When your puppy must be left alone for long periods of time, confine him to an area with enough room for a sleeping space, a playing space, and a separate place to eliminate. In the area designated as the elimination place, you can either use newspapers, a sod box, or litter. To make a sod box, place sod in a container, like a child’s small, plastic swimming pool. You can also find dog litter products at pet supply stores. If you clean up an accident in the house, take the soiled rags or paper towels, and put them in the designated elimination place. The smell with help your puppy recognize the area as the place where he is suppose to eliminate.

      Other Types of Housesoiling Problems

      If you’ve consistently followed the housetraining procedures and your puppy continues to eliminate in the house, there may be another reason for his behavior.

    • Medical Problems: House soiling can often be caused by physical problems, such as a urinary tract infection or a parasite infection. Check with your local veterinarian to rule out any possibility of disease or illness.
    • Fearful/Excitement Urination: Some dogs, especially young ones, temporarily lose control of their bladders when they become excited or feel threatened. This usually occurs during greetings, intense play, or when they’re about to be punished (see our handout: “Fearful and Excitement Urination”).
    • Urine-Marking: Dogs sometimes deposit urine or feces, usually in small amounts, to scent-mark. Both male and female dogs do this, and it most often occurs when there is instability in their relationships (see our handout: “Marking Behavior in Dogs”).
    • Separation Anxiety: Dogs that become anxious when they’re left alone may house soil as a result. Usually, there are other symptoms, such as destructive behavior or vocalization (see out handout: “Separation Anxiety”).
    • Fears or Phobias: When animals become frightened, they may lose control of their bladder and/or bowels. If your puppy is afraid of loud noises, such as thunderstorms or fireworks, he may house soil when he’s exposed to these sounds (see our handout: “Helping Your Dog Overcome the Fear of Thunder and Other Starling Noises”).

    ©2014 Dumb Friends League

    Category Jindo Info & Dog Tips
    Post Date July 5, 2014

    Helping your dog overcome the fear of thunder and other startling noises

    (From The Dumb Friends League)

    It is not uncommon for dogs to be frightened of thunder, firecrackers or other loud sounds. These types of fears may develop even though your dog has had no traumatic experiences associated with the sound. Many fear- related problems can be successfully resolved. However, if left untreated, your dog’s fearful behavior will probably get worse.

    The most common behavior problems associated with fear of loud noises are destruction and escaping. When your dog becomes frightened, she tries to reduce her fear. She may try to escape to a place where the sounds of thunder or firecrackers are less intense. If, by leaving the yard or going into a certain room or area of the house, she feels less afraid, then the escape or destructive behavior is reinforced because it successfully lessens her fear. For some dogs, just the activity or physical exertion associated with one of these behaviors may be an outlet for their anxiety. Unfortunately, escape and/or destructive behavior can be a problem for you and could also result in physical injury to your dog.

    Things that are present in the environment whenever your dog hears the startling noise can, from her viewpoint, become associated with the frightening sound. Over a period of time, she may become afraid of other things in the environment that she associates with the noise that frightens her. For example, dogs that are afraid of thunder may later become afraid of the wind, dark clouds and flashes of light that often precede the sound of thunder. Dogs that are afraid of firecrackers may become afraid of the children who have the firecrackers or may become afraid to go in the backyard, if that is where they usually hear the noise.

    What You Can Do To Help

    Create A Safe Place: Try to create a safe place for your dog to go to when she hears the noises that frighten her. But remember, this must be a safe location from her perspective, not yours. Notice where she goes, or tries to go, when she is frightened, and if at all possible, give her access to that place. If she is trying to get inside the house, consider installing a dog door. If she is trying to get under your bed, give her access to your bedroom. You can also create a “hidey-hole” that is dark, small and shielded from the frightening sound as much as possible (a fan or radio playing will help block out the sound). Encourage her to go there when you are home and the thunder or other noise occurs. Feed her in that location and associate other “good things” happening to her there. She must be able to come and go from this location freely. Confining her in the “hidey-hole” when she does not want to be there will only cause more problems. The “safe place” approach may work with some dogs, but not all. Some dogs are motivated to move and be active when frightened and “hiding out” will not help them feel less fearful.

    Distract Your Dog: This method works best when your dog is just beginning to get anxious. Encourage her to engage in any activity that captures her attention and distracts her from behaving fearfully. Start when she first alerts you to the noise and is not yet showing a lot of fearful behavior, but is only watchful. Immediately try to interest her in doing something that she really enjoys. Get out the tennis ball and play fetch (in an escape- proof area) or practice some commands that she knows. Give her a lot of praise and treats for paying attention to the game or the commands. As the storm or the noise builds, you may not be able to keep her attention on the activity, but it might delay the start of the fearful behavior for longer and longer each time you do it. If you cannot keep her attention and she begins acting afraid, stop the process. If you continue, you may inadvertently reinforce her fearful behavior.

    Behavior Modification: Behavior modification techniques are often successful in reducing fears and phobias. The appropriate techniques are called “counter-conditioning” and “desensitization.” This means to condition or teach your dog to respond in non-fearful ways to sounds and other stimuli that previously frightened her. This must be done very gradually. Begin by exposing her to an intensity level of noise that does not frighten her and pair it with something pleasant, like a treat or a fun game. Gradually increase the volume as you continue to offer her something pleasant. Through this process, she will come to associate “good things” with the previously feared sound.

    Example:

    •  Make a tape with firecracker noises on it.
    •  Play the tape at such a low volume that your dog does not respond fearfully. While the tape is playing,

      feed her dinner, give her a treat or play her favorite game.

    •  In your next session, play the tape a little louder while you feed her or play her favorite game.
    •  Continue increasing the volume through many sessions over a period of several weeks or months. If at any time while the tape is playing, she displays fearful behavior, STOP. Begin your next session at a lower volume – one that does not produce anxiety – and proceed more slowly.

      If these techniques are not used correctly, they will not be successful and can even make the problem worse. For some fears, it can be difficult to recreate the fear stimulus. For example, thunder is accompanied by changes in barometric pressure, lightning and rain, and your dog’s fearful response may be to the combination of these things and not just the thunder. You may need professional assistance to create and implement this kind of behavior modification program.

      Consult Your Veterinarian: Medication may be available which can make your dog less anxious for short time periods. Your veterinarian is the only person who is licensed and qualified to prescribe medication for your dog. Do not attempt to give your dog any over-the-counter or prescription medication without consulting your veterinarian. Animals do not respond to drugs the same way people do, and a medication that may be safe for humans could be fatal to your dog. Drug therapy alone will not reduce fears and phobias permanently, but in extreme cases, behavior modification and medication used together might be the best approach.

      What Not To Do

      Attempting to reassure your dog when she is afraid may reinforce her fearful behavior. If you pet, soothe or give treats to her when she is behaving fearfully, she may interpret this as a reward for her fearful behavior. Instead, try to behave normally, as if you do not notice her fearfulness.

      Putting your dog in a crate to prevent her from being destructive during a thunderstorm is not recommended. She will still be afraid when she is in the crate and is likely to injure herself, perhaps even severely, while attempting to get out of the crate.

      Do not punish your dog for being afraid. Punishment will only make her more fearful.
      Do not try to force your dog to experience or be close to the sound that frightens her. For example, making her stay close to a group of children who are lighting firecrackers will only make her more afraid, and could cause her to become aggressive in an attempt to escape from the situation.

      Obedience classes will not make your dog less afraid of thunder or other noises, but could help boost her general confidence.

      These approaches do not work because they do not decrease your dog’s fear. Merely trying to prevent her from escaping or being destructive will not work. If she is still afraid, she will continue to show that fear in whatever way she can (digging, jumping, climbing, chewing, barking, howling).

      Animal Behavior Specialists
      If your dog has severe fears and phobias and you are unable to achieve success with the techniques we have outlined here, you should contact a professional for help.

      2004 Dumb Friends League. All Rights Reserved. HYDO 

    Category Behavior Issues
    Post Date July 5, 2014

    Getting started with the clicker (re clicker training)

    (From The Dumb Friends League)

    The easiest way to start clicker training is to teach your dog to hand target. During this process your dog will learn that the click sound ALWAYS means a treat is coming, and he’ll learn that offering a specific behavior earns a click/treat. This will become the foundation for teaching all sorts of new behaviors.

    What you need:

    • ·  A clicker
    • ·  Tasty, soft, bite-sized treats – try hot dogs, cheese, chicken, or beef cut into 1/4

      inch cubes. Place about 15-20 treats in a small bowl

    • ·  A quiet place with no distractions that has a table or counter on which you can place the treat bowl so that it is too high for the dog to reach.

      Step one: Practicing without the dog

      Without your dog around, practice clicking and transferring one food treat from the treat bowl to an empty bowl. This may seem a little silly, but clicker training involves mechanical skills and you want to get familiar with the “equipment” and the rhythm of the clicker game.

      So, click once (the click is a quick two-beat sound), and deliver a treat from one bowl to another. Repeat until this feels comfortable and natural. When you see the abbreviation C/T, this is what you will do, only you’ll deliver the treat to the dog.

      Step two: “Charging” the clicker

      Now bring your dog into the room. He should be mildly hungry. He need not be on leash, but if you need to keep him on leash to keep him close at first, just stand on the end of it so he can’t wander off. Once he starts playing the game, he’ll want to stay close and you won’t need the leash anymore.

      Click and give your dog a treat from the bowl on the table. Do not reach toward the bowl until you have clicked. Do this about 10 times. Make sure the dog is in different positions when he hears the click (sitting, standing, facing you from the front, facing you from the side, etc.).

      Repeat this session two times.
      � 2010 Dumb Friends League. All Rights Reserved.

    To test whether the dog understands that click=treat, wait until he is interested in something (not you) and click. If he turns to you looking for a treat, you know he’s got the click/treat association. Now you’re ready to start using the clicker to mark behaviors that you want the dog to do.

    Step three: Teaching target

    With your treats close by and your clicker in one hand, put your free hand an inch or two directly in front of your dog’s nose. Your hand should be open and flat, palm out. When the dog sniffs your hand, C/T. You can feed the treat directly to the dog or throw it on the floor – make sure he sees it. Remove your target hand (put it behind your back) as you C/T. Repeat this about three times.

    On the fourth time, move your hand a little to one side; on the next time, move your hand a little to the other side. Always C/T when the dog touches your hand with his nose. Be sure that you are not moving your hand into his nose.

    Now present your hand a little higher, than a little lower, then a little further away from his nose (six inches). Always C/T when the dog touches your hand with his nose.

    Now present your hand a little further away so that your dog must take a step or two to get to it. If he doesn’t move, move your body around a little to see if you can get him up and moving (some dogs get stuck in the “sit” position if they have been rewarded for this in the past). Do this “moving” touch three or four times, then end your training session.

    End your training session with a verbal cue, such as “all done.” It’s often nice to end a training session with some petting, some play, or a walk.

    Tips:

    • ·  Keep the game moving and fun – your 15-20 clicks should happen in the space of two to three minutes.
    • ·  Try to avoid bending at the waist while training. Bend at the knees so that you are not looming over the dog. With a small dog it may be best to work on your knees, or alternatively, to put the dog up on a bench or table.
    • ·  End the session before your dog does, but if he loses interest before you stop, end the session and come back a little later. Sometimes dogs need a little time to process the new thing they are learning, so don’t get discouraged by this.
    • ·  If you can, do three to four of these short sessions a day. If you can only do one, that’s okay too. Your dog will remember what he learned and make progress either way.
    • ·  Remember click always means treat, so even if you make a mistake and click in error, he must receive a treat.

      Moving On

    • ·  A good way to be sure your dog understands this behavior is to hold your hand high enough that he must lift his front feet off the floor to touch it. Once he offers this behavior, you can be fairly sure he understands what you want him to do.
    • ·  Adding a verbal cue – for this particular behavior, the cue is putting your hand out. No verbal cue is needed, but we humans like verbal cues, so if you want to add one, here’s how. Once the dog is offering the behavior as soon as he sees your hand, start saying the cue word “touch” as he touches his nose to your hand. This way he is associating the word with his action. Do this for about two training sessions. In the next training session, say “touch” just before his nose touches your hand. Then, in subsequent sessions, say “touch” as you offer your hand. Now you have a verbal cue!
    • ·  Variable Schedule of Reinforcement – you have been using a “continuous schedule of reinforcement” which means the dog gets a treat every time he performs the behavior. Now you’re ready to move to a variable schedule of reinforcement, meaning he only gets a treat sometimes. Only C/T every third, sixth, second, fourth, or tenth time he performs the behavior.
    • ·  Where to put the darn treats – if you started with the treats in a bowl, and now you’re doing this behavior in other locations, you probably have already run into the problem of where to keep your treats. It’s handy to buy a “bait bag” that you wear at your waist; this can be a bag made specifically for dog training or just a fanny pack. A carpenter’s apron works well as does any kitchen apron with pockets.
    • ·  Once your dog is performing the behavior reliably on cue (i.e., he will do the behavior when you give the verbal cue at least 90% of the time) on a variable schedule of reinforcement, you don’t really need the clicker any more for that behavior. You should still reward your dog often with praise and variably with a food treat, but you don’t need the clicker any more–until you’re ready to teach a new behavior!

    Having fun with hand targeting

    Now that your dog knows how to hand target, there are lots of fun things you can teach him!

    The Moving Touch

    Heel: Standing straight, put your left hand by your left side, palm facing back; with the dog behind you, say “touch,” but move several steps forward before allowing your dog to make contact with your hand. C/T when he touches. Gradually increase the number of steps he must take to touch your hand. Now begin saying “heel” as you walk forward – you have a new behavior! For small dogs, it is easier to transfer the touch cue to a dowel or target stick first (see below), then have the dog follow the stick instead of your hand.

    Weave: Stand with your legs apart and your dog in front of you. Put your right hand (or touch stick for a small dog) between and behind your legs and say “touch” to get him to move through your legs. Now put your left hand out in front of you, encouraging him to come around your right leg, and say “touch” again. Put your left hand between and behind your legs and say touch so he moves between your legs again. Again put your right hand in front of your legs to encourage him to come around your left leg to the front and say “touch”. When he starts to move smoothly around your legs, change the cue to “weave.”

    Come: With your dog in front of you – hold your hand in front of you and say “touch.” Gradually increase the distance he must come to get to your hand. When he is coming from distance of ten feet or so, change your cue to “come” or “here.”

    On or Up: If you want your dog to hop up on the couch, or hop on the scale at the veterinarian’s office – use your “touch” cue. Hold your hand over the couch or scale and say “touch” so the dog has to hop up on the object to reach your hand. You might have to start with a lower object at first if he is reluctant to jump up on a higher surface. When he is freely offering the behavior in response to your outstretched hand, change your cue to “on” or “up.”

    Puppy Nipping: Touch is also a good alternative, incompatible behavior for puppy nipping. When your pup is inclined to mouth you, ask for the “touch” behavior. This gives him something else to do instead of nipping at you.

    Transferring the “Touch” Cue to a New Object

    Find the . . . : Do you have something you misplace regularly – your car keys, glasses, remote control or cell phone? You can teach your dog to help you find it, using the touch cue. Hold your keys in your hand and give your “touch” cue. Do this four or five times. Now hold the keys so that your dog’s nose will touch the keys first. C/T only for nose touches to the keys, not the ones to your hand. Put your hand with the keys on the floor and C/T for touches to the keys. Now take your hand away and C/T if your dog touches the keys with his nose. Don’t worry if he is confused at first and tries to touch your hand. Shape the behavior if you need to – i.e., C/T if he looks at the keys or for any movement toward the keys. Be patient – he’ll get it. If he’s having trouble with this behavior, jackpot (give four or five treats instead of one) when he finally touches the keys on the floor. Once he’s offering the new behavior (touching the keys with his nose) add the new cue “find my keys.” Now start making the keys harder to find – put them further away, put them under a pillow or ottoman.

    Tips:

    • ·  When introducing a new behavior, go back to a continuous schedule of reinforcement.
    • ·  Lower the value of your treats – as your dog starts to enjoy the clicker game, you may find you can use lower-value treats (like kibble); save higher value treats for more difficult situations or for jackpots.
    • ·  Remember to reduce your dog’s meal size for the amount of treats you are feeding during training.

    � 2010 Dumb Friends League. All Rights Reserved.

    Category Jindo Info & Dog Tips
    Post Date July 5, 2014

    Fearful and excitement urination

    (From The Dumb Friends League)

    Fearful urination occurs when a dog feels threatened. It may occur when he’s being punished or verbally scolded, or when he’s approached by someone he perceives to be threatening to him. It’s important to remember that this response is based on the dog’s perception of a threat, not the person’s actual intention. Fearful urination may resolve as your dog gains confidence, but you can help build confidence through Nothing in Life is Free, which is when you teach him commands and then have him perform a command in exchange for something, like food or going outside (see our handout: “Nothing in Life is Free”). You should gradually expose him to new people and new situations, making sure all of his new experiences are positive and happy, while also counter conditioning him to respond differently to situations that normally make him pee.

    Your dog may be fearfully urinating if:

    • Urination occurs when he’s being scolded.
    • Urination occurs when he’s being greeted.
    • Urination occurs when someone approaches him.
    • He is a somewhat shy, anxious or timid dog (doesn’t settle down or is easily scared).
    • He has a history of rough treatment or punishment after the fact.
    • The urination is accompanied by appeasing postures, such as crouching or rolling over to expose his belly.

      What to do if your dog has a fearful urination problem:

    • Take your dog to the vet to rule out medical reasons for the behavior.
    • Keep greetings low key.
    • Practice Nothing in Life is Free and do clicker training (see our handout: “Dog Clicker Training”).
    • Encourage and reward confident postures from him.
    • Give him an alternative to behaving fearful. For example, if he knows a few commands, have him

      “sit” or “shake” as you approach, and reward him for performing the behavior.

    • Avoid approaching him with postures that he reads as threatening, for example:

    o Avoid direct eye contact. Look at his back or tail instead.
    o Get down on his level by bending at the knees rather than leaning over from the waist and

    ask others to approach him the same way.
    o Pet him under the chin rather than on top of the head.

    • As you approach, present the side of your body to him, rather than your full front, and avert your gaze.

    o Until the problem resolves, you might want to protect your carpet by placing a plastic drop cloth or an absorbent material in the entryway where the accidents are most likely to occur. Alternatively, you can purchase “doggie diapers” at your local pet supply store.

    What not to do:
    • Do not punish or scold him. This will only make the problem worse.

    Excitement Urination

    Excitement urination occurs most often during greetings and playtime and is not accompanied by appeasing posturing. Excitement urination usually resolves on its own as a dog matures, as long as it isn’t made worse by punishment or inadvertent reinforcement.

    Your dog may have an excitement urination problem if:

    • Urination occurs when your dog is excited; for example, during greetings or during playtime.
    • Your dog is less than 1 year old.
    • Your dog tends to be anxious in general (doesn’t settle down or is easily scared). •
      What to do if your dog has an excitement urination problem:
    • Take your dog to the veterinarian to rule out medical reasons for the behavior.
    • Keep greetings low key.
    • Practice Nothing in Life is Free and do clicker training.
    • To avoid accidents, play and greet outdoors until the problem is resolved.
    • Until the problem resolves, you might want to protect your carpet by placing a plastic drop cloth or

      an absorbent material in the entryway where the accidents are most likely to occur. Alternatively,

      you can purchase “doggie diapers” at your local pet supply store.

    • Ignore him until he’s calm.

      What not to do:

    • Do not punish or scold him.

    ©2014 Dumb Friends League

    Category Behavior Issues
    Post Date July 5, 2014

    Dog toys and how to use them

    (From The Dumb Friends League)

    Many behavior problems in dogs are the result of boredom or excess energy. Toys offer mental and physical stimulation and enrichment. Directing your dog’s energy into play with toys can prevent or help resolve such problems as digging and chewing on furniture, shoes or shrubbery.

    Toys We Recommend
    Interactive Toys: These are toys that require your participation:

    ►Fetch toys – many dogs enjoy chasing balls and Frisbees®. Oddly shaped rubber toys (such as Kongs®) bounce erratically and make the game more fun. Flying disks come in many shapes and sizes, including soft versions that are easier on the dog’s mouth. And devices for throwing the ball increase the distance the dog must run to get the toy.

    ►Rope toys, such as Tire Biter® toys, are good for tugging. See note below on playing tug-of-war with your dog. Distraction Toys: These are toys that keep your dog busy when you don’t have the time to play:

    ►Food Delivery Toys: Designed to be used with kibble or small treats, the dog must manipulate the toy with his mouth and/or paws to get the food to fall out. Some examples are: Buster Cube®, TreatStik®, Tug-a-Jug®, Kibble Nibble® and Everlasting Fun Ball®.

    ►Chew Toys:

    •   Hard rubber toys that are hollow with holes at both ends, such as Kongs, are good chew toys. To make these toys more attractive, they can be filled with kibble or treats. You can also encourage chewing by putting a small amount of peanut butter or cream cheese inside the toy.
    •   Dental chew toys are hard toys that the dog can gnaw on and safely ingest small particles. Examples include: Greenies®, bullie sticks, and Petrodex® dental chews. You should watch your dog to make sure he does not break off and ingest large pieces of these toys.
    •   Chew challenge toys are toys that make an edible chewy more challenging for the dog to consume. Examples include Funny Bones®, the Kong Goodie Bone®, and the Everlasting Treat Ball®.

      ►Puzzle Toys:

    •   Food puzzle toys require the dog to solve a puzzle in order to get treats. Examples are the Nina Ottoson® line of dog toys including the Dog Spinny® and the Dog Brick®.
    •   Toy puzzle toys require the dog to solve a puzzle to get to a toy. Examples are the Kygen® line of toys, including the IQube®, Intellibone®, and Hide-a-Bee®.

      Comfort Toys:

    •   Soft stuffed toys are good for several purposes but are not appropriate for all dogs. For some dogs, the stuffed toy should be small enough to carry around. For dogs that want to shake or “kill” the toy, it should be the size that “prey” would be for that size dog (mouse-size, rabbit-size or duck-size).
    •   Dirty laundry, like an old T-shirt, pillowcase, towel or blanket, can be very comforting to a dog, especially if it smells like you! Be forewarned that the item could be destroyed by industrious fluffing, carrying and nosing.

      Getting The Most Out Of Toys

    •   Rotate your dog’s toys weekly by making only four or five toys available at a time. Keep a variety of types easily accessible. If your dog has a favorite comfort toy, like a soft “baby,” you should probably leave it out all the time.
    •   Provide toys that offer a variety of uses – at least one toy to carry, one to “kill,” one to roll and one to “baby.”
    •   “Hide and Seek” is a fun game for dogs to play. “Found” toys are often much more attractive. Making an interactive game out of finding toys or treats is a good rainy-day activity for your dog, using up

    energy without the need for a lot of space. For example, scattering a handful of kibble in the grass or on a patterned carpet will require your dog to use his nose to find the food.

     Many of your dog’s toys should be interactive. Interactive play is very important for your dog because he needs active “people time.” By focusing on a specific task, like repeatedly returning a ball, Kong or

    Frisbee, or playing “hide-and-seek” with treats or toys, your dog can expend pent-up mental and physical energy in a limited amount of time and space. This greatly reduces stress due to confinement, isolation and/or boredom. For young, high-energy and untrained dogs, interactive play also offers an opportunity for socialization and helps them learn about appropriate and inappropriate behavior, such as jumping up or being mouthy.

    Tug of War

    Tug of war has long been thought to be an absolute “don’t” in many dog-owning households. However, by taking a few precautions and setting some basic rules it can be a fun game for you and your dog.

    •   Choose a toy that will be reserved exclusively for this particular activity. This will help prevent your dog from grabbing and tugging anything you have in your hand.
    •   Teach two commands:
      o “Let’s tug” begins the game. Never allow the dog to initiate tug on his own and always use

    Safety

    your starting phrase when you begin the game.

    o “Give” or “Out” ends the game. Teach your dog to release the toy by offering a treat or better toy in exchange. Do not start playing tug with your dog until he is consistently releasing the toy on command.

    There are many factors that contribute to the safety or danger of a toy. Many of those factors are dependent upon your dog’s size, activity level and play style. Although we cannot guarantee your dog’s enthusiasm or his

    safety with any specific toy, we can offer the following guidelines:

    Toys should be appropriate for your dog’s current size. Balls and other toys that are too small can be easily swallowed or become lodged in your dog’s mouth or throat.

    Avoid or alter any toys that are not “dog-proof” by removing ribbons, strings, eyes or other parts that could be chewed off and ingested.

    Monitor your dog’s toys and discard any toy that starts to break into pieces or has pieces torn off.

    Ask your veterinarian about the safety of items like bones, hooves, pig’s ears and rawhides. Very hard rubber toys are safer and last longer.

    Take note of any toy that contains a “squeaker” buried in its center. Your dog may feel that he must find and destroy the squeak source and could ingest it, in which case squeaking toys should be given only under supervision.

    Know your dogs chewing habits before leaving him alone with any toy. For example, some dogs will carry a plush toy around for years. Others will enjoy “disemboweling” the toy by pulling all the stuffing out. Still others will chew it apart and ingest the pieces, creating a safety hazard for that dog.

     Revised 2009 Dumb Friends League. All Rights Reserved. DTAH_R0106

    Category Jindo Info & Dog Tips
    Post Date July 5, 2014

    Dog clicker training

    (From The Dumb Friends League)

    Getting Started with the Clicker

    The easiest way to start clicker training is to teach your dog to hand target. During this process your dog will learn that the click sound ALWAYS means a treat is coming, and he’ll learn that offering a specific behavior earns a click/treat. This will become the foundation for teaching all sorts of new behaviors.

    What you need:

    • ·  A clicker
    • ·  Tasty, soft, bite-sized treats – try hot dogs, cheese, chicken, or beef cut into 1/4

      inch cubes. Place about 15-20 treats in a small bowl

    • ·  A quiet place with no distractions that has a table or counter on which you can place the treat bowl so that it is too high for the dog to reach.

      Step one: Practicing without the dog

      Without your dog around, practice clicking and transferring one food treat from the treat bowl to an empty bowl. This may seem a little silly, but clicker training involves mechanical skills and you want to get familiar with the “equipment” and the rhythm of the clicker game.

      So, click once (the click is a quick two-beat sound), and deliver a treat from one bowl to another. Repeat until this feels comfortable and natural. When you see the abbreviation C/T, this is what you will do, only you’ll deliver the treat to the dog.

      Step two: “Charging” the clicker

      Now bring your dog into the room. He should be mildly hungry. He need not be on leash, but if you need to keep him on leash to keep him close at first, just stand on the end of it so he can’t wander off. Once he starts playing the game, he’ll want to stay close and you won’t need the leash anymore.

      Click and give your dog a treat from the bowl on the table. Do not reach toward the bowl until you have clicked. Do this about 10 times. Make sure the dog is in different positions when he hears the click (sitting, standing, facing you from the front, facing you from the side, etc.).

      Repeat this session two times.
      � 2010 Dumb Friends League. All Rights Reserved.

    To test whether the dog understands that click=treat, wait until he is interested in something (not you) and click. If he turns to you looking for a treat, you know he’s got the click/treat association. Now you’re ready to start using the clicker to mark behaviors that you want the dog to do.

    Step three: Teaching target

    With your treats close by and your clicker in one hand, put your free hand an inch or two directly in front of your dog’s nose. Your hand should be open and flat, palm out. When the dog sniffs your hand, C/T. You can feed the treat directly to the dog or throw it on the floor – make sure he sees it. Remove your target hand (put it behind your back) as you C/T. Repeat this about three times.

    On the fourth time, move your hand a little to one side; on the next time, move your hand a little to the other side. Always C/T when the dog touches your hand with his nose. Be sure that you are not moving your hand into his nose.

    Now present your hand a little higher, than a little lower, then a little further away from his nose (six inches). Always C/T when the dog touches your hand with his nose.

    Now present your hand a little further away so that your dog must take a step or two to get to it. If he doesn’t move, move your body around a little to see if you can get him up and moving (some dogs get stuck in the “sit” position if they have been rewarded for this in the past). Do this “moving” touch three or four times, then end your training session.

    End your training session with a verbal cue, such as “all done.” It’s often nice to end a training session with some petting, some play, or a walk.

    Tips:

    • ·  Keep the game moving and fun – your 15-20 clicks should happen in the space of two to three minutes.
    • ·  Try to avoid bending at the waist while training. Bend at the knees so that you are not looming over the dog. With a small dog it may be best to work on your knees, or alternatively, to put the dog up on a bench or table.
    • ·  End the session before your dog does, but if he loses interest before you stop, end the session and come back a little later. Sometimes dogs need a little time to process the new thing they are learning, so don’t get discouraged by this.
    • ·  If you can, do three to four of these short sessions a day. If you can only do one, that’s okay too. Your dog will remember what he learned and make progress either way.
    • ·  Remember click always means treat, so even if you make a mistake and click in error, he must receive a treat.

      Moving On

    • ·  A good way to be sure your dog understands this behavior is to hold your hand high enough that he must lift his front feet off the floor to touch it. Once he offers this behavior, you can be fairly sure he understands what you want him to do.
    • ·  Adding a verbal cue – for this particular behavior, the cue is putting your hand out. No verbal cue is needed, but we humans like verbal cues, so if you want to add one, here’s how. Once the dog is offering the behavior as soon as he sees your hand, start saying the cue word “touch” as he touches his nose to your hand. This way he is associating the word with his action. Do this for about two training sessions. In the next training session, say “touch” just before his nose touches your hand. Then, in subsequent sessions, say “touch” as you offer your hand. Now you have a verbal cue!
    • ·  Variable Schedule of Reinforcement – you have been using a “continuous schedule of reinforcement” which means the dog gets a treat every time he performs the behavior. Now you’re ready to move to a variable schedule of reinforcement, meaning he only gets a treat sometimes. Only C/T every third, sixth, second, fourth, or tenth time he performs the behavior.
    • ·  Where to put the darn treats – if you started with the treats in a bowl, and now you’re doing this behavior in other locations, you probably have already run into the problem of where to keep your treats. It’s handy to buy a “bait bag” that you wear at your waist; this can be a bag made specifically for dog training or just a fanny pack. A carpenter’s apron works well as does any kitchen apron with pockets.
    • ·  Once your dog is performing the behavior reliably on cue (i.e., he will do the behavior when you give the verbal cue at least 90% of the time) on a variable schedule of reinforcement, you don’t really need the clicker any more for that behavior. You should still reward your dog often with praise and variably with a food treat, but you don’t need the clicker any more–until you’re ready to teach a new behavior!

    Having fun with hand targeting

    Now that your dog knows how to hand target, there are lots of fun things you can teach him!

    The Moving Touch

    Heel: Standing straight, put your left hand by your left side, palm facing back; with the dog behind you, say “touch,” but move several steps forward before allowing your dog to make contact with your hand. C/T when he touches. Gradually increase the number of steps he must take to touch your hand. Now begin saying “heel” as you walk forward – you have a new behavior! For small dogs, it is easier to transfer the touch cue to a dowel or target stick first (see below), then have the dog follow the stick instead of your hand.

    Weave: Stand with your legs apart and your dog in front of you. Put your right hand (or touch stick for a small dog) between and behind your legs and say “touch” to get him to move through your legs. Now put your left hand out in front of you, encouraging him to come around your right leg, and say “touch” again. Put your left hand between and behind your legs and say touch so he moves between your legs again. Again put your right hand in front of your legs to encourage him to come around your left leg to the front and say “touch”. When he starts to move smoothly around your legs, change the cue to “weave.”

    Come: With your dog in front of you – hold your hand in front of you and say “touch.” Gradually increase the distance he must come to get to your hand. When he is coming from distance of ten feet or so, change your cue to “come” or “here.”

    On or Up: If you want your dog to hop up on the couch, or hop on the scale at the veterinarian’s office – use your “touch” cue. Hold your hand over the couch or scale and say “touch” so the dog has to hop up on the object to reach your hand. You might have to start with a lower object at first if he is reluctant to jump up on a higher surface. When he is freely offering the behavior in response to your outstretched hand, change your cue to “on” or “up.”

    Puppy Nipping: Touch is also a good alternative, incompatible behavior for puppy nipping. When your pup is inclined to mouth you, ask for the “touch” behavior. This gives him something else to do instead of nipping at you.

    Transferring the “Touch” Cue to a New Object

    Find the . . . : Do you have something you misplace regularly – your car keys, glasses, remote control or cell phone? You can teach your dog to help you find it, using the touch cue. Hold your keys in your hand and give your “touch” cue. Do this four or five times. Now hold the keys so that your dog’s nose will touch the keys first. C/T only for nose touches to the keys, not the ones to your hand. Put your hand with the keys on the floor and C/T for touches to the keys. Now take your hand away and C/T if your dog touches the keys with his nose. Don’t worry if he is confused at first and tries to touch your hand. Shape the behavior if you need to – i.e., C/T if he looks at the keys or for any movement toward the keys. Be patient – he’ll get it. If he’s having trouble with this behavior, jackpot (give four or five treats instead of one) when he finally touches the keys on the floor. Once he’s offering the new behavior (touching the keys with his nose) add the new cue “find my keys.” Now start making the keys harder to find – put them further away, put them under a pillow or ottoman.

    Tips:

    • ·  When introducing a new behavior, go back to a continuous schedule of reinforcement.
    • ·  Lower the value of your treats – as your dog starts to enjoy the clicker game, you may find you can use lower-value treats (like kibble); save higher value treats for more difficult situations or for jackpots.
    • ·  Remember to reduce your dog’s meal size for the amount of treats you are feeding during training.
    •  2010 Dumb Friends League. All Rights Reserved.
    Category Jindo Info & Dog Tips
    Post Date July 5, 2014

    Developmental stages of puppy behavior

    (From The Dumb Friends League)

    Although feeding time is important, it’s also vital to include petting, talking, and playing, in order to help your puppy build good “people-skills.” Well-socialized mothers are more likely to have well-socialized puppies. Puppies “feed” off their mothers’ calm or fearful attitude toward people.

    Puppies are usually weaned at six or seven weeks, but are still learning important skills as their mother gradually leaves them more and more. Ideally, puppies should stay with their littermates (or other role- model dogs) for at least 12 weeks.

    Puppies separated from their littermates too early often don’t develop appropriate “social skills,” such as learning how to send and receive signals, what an “inhibited bite” means, how far to go in play wrestling, and so forth. Play is important to help puppies increase their physical coordination, social skills, and learning limits. By interacting with their mother and littermates and attending puppy preschool classes, puppies learn “how to be a dog.”

    Skills not acquired during the first eight weeks may be lost forever. While these stages are important and fairly consistent, a dog’s mind remains receptive to new experiences and lessons well beyond puppy-hood. Most dogs are still puppies, in mind and body, through the first two years.

    The following chart provides general guidelines for stages of development.

    0-2weeks

    ——————————————————————————————————————————————

    • □  Most influenced by their mother.
    • □  Touch and taste present at birth.

      2- 4 weeks

      ——————————————————————————————————————————————

    • □  Most influenced by their mother and littermates.
    • □  Eyes open, teeth erupt, hearing and smell developing.
    • □  Beginning to stand, walk a little, wag, and bark.
    • □  By four or five weeks, sight is well developed.

      3- 12 weeks

      ——————————————————————————————————————————————

    • □  During this period, puppies need opportunities to meet other dogs and people.
    • □  By four to six weeks they’re most influenced by their littermates and are learning about being a

      dog.

    • □  From four to 12 weeks they’re most influenced by their littermates and people. They’re also

      learning to play, developing social skills, inhibited bite, and physical coordination.

    • □  By three to five weeks they’re becoming aware of their surroundings, companions (dogs and

      people) and relationships.

    • □  By five to seven weeks they’re developing curiosity and exploring new experiences. They need positive “people” experiences during this time.
    • □  By seven to nine weeks they’re refining they’re physical skills/coordination (including housetraining) and have full use of senses.
    • □  By eight to ten weeks they experience real fear – when puppies can be alarmed by normal objects and experiences, and need positive training.
    • □  By nine to 12 weeks they’re refining reactions, social skills (appropriate interactions) with littermates, and are exploring the environment, spaces, and objects. They are beginning to focus on people. This is a good time to begin training.

      3-6months

      ——————————————————————————————————————————————

    • □  Most influenced by “littermates” (playmates now include those of other species).
    • □  Beginning to see social relationships.
    • □  Teething (and associated chewing).
    • □  At four months they experience another fear stage.

      6 – 18 months

      ——————————————————————————————————————————————

    • □  Most influenced by humans and dogs.
    • □  At seven to nine months they go through a second chewing phase – part of exploring their

      environment.

    • □  Heightened exploration of assertion; testing limits, challenging human and dog relationships.
    • □  If not spayed or neutered, beginnings of sexual behavior.

    ©2014 Dumb Friends League

    Category Jindo Info & Dog Tips
    Post Date July 5, 2014

    Destructive chewing

    (From The Dumb Friends League)

    It is normal for dogs to explore the world with their mouths. However, chewing can be directed into appropriate items so your dog is not destroying items you value. Until he has learned what he can and cannot chew, it is your responsibility to manage the situation as much as possible, so he doesn’t have the opportunity to chew on unacceptable objects.

    Managing the Situation

    • Take responsibility for your own belongings. If you don’t want it in your dog’s mouth, don’t make it available. Keep clothing, shoes, books, trash, eyeglasses, cell phones, and remote controls out of your dog’s reach.

    • Don’t confuse your dog by offering him shoes and socks as toys and then expect them to distinguish between his shoes and yours. Your dog’s toys should be obviously different from household goods.

    • Until he learns, confine him when you are unable to keep an eye on him. Choose a “safe place” that is dog proof with fresh water and “safe” toys (see our handout: “Dog Toys and How to Use Them”). If your dog is crate trained, you may also crate him for short periods of time (see our handout: “Crate Training Your Dogs”).

    • Take your dog to an obedience class to teach him important commands, like “leave it.” Classes may have the added benefit of reducing destructive behavior because they will help your dog burn off excess energy (see our handout: “The Educated Dog”). You can also do basic training at home, using clicker training (see our handout: “Dog Clicker Training”).

    • If, and only if, you actually catch your dog chewing on something he shouldn’t, interrupt the behavior with a loud noise and offer him an acceptable chew toy instead. Play with him when he takes the toy in his mouth.

    • Have realistic expectation. It is highly likely that your dog will, at some point, chew up something you value. This is often part of the transition to a new home.

    Dogs will engage in destructive behavior for a variety of reasons. In order to deal with the behavior, you must first determine why your dog is being destructive.

    Play, Boredom, and/or Social Isolation

    Normal play behavior can result in destruction, as it may involve digging, chewing, shredding, and/or shaking toy-like objects. Since dogs investigate objects by pawing at them and exploring them with their mouth, they may inadvertently damage items in their environment.

    Your dog may be chewing for entertainment if:

    • He’s left alone for long time periods without opportunities for interaction with you or other family members.
    • His environment is relatively barren, without playmates or toys.
    • He’s a puppy or adolescent (under 3 years old) and he doesn’t have other outlets for his

      energy.

    • He’s a particularly active type of dog (like the herding or sporting breeds) who needs an

      active lifestyle to be happy.

    Solutions:

    • Play with your dog daily in a safe, fenced-in area. If you don’t have a yard, a tennis court can be a good place to play. Fetch is a great game that will use up your dog’s excess energy without wearing you out!
    • Go for a walk. Walks should be more than just “bathroom time.” On-leash walks are important opportunities for you and your dog to be together. Don’t forget to allow time for sniffing, exploring, instruction, and praise.
    • Increase your dog’s opportunities for mental stimulation. Teach your dog a few commands and/or tricks using clicker training and practice them daily (see our handout: “Dog Clicker Training”). If you have time, take an obedience class.
    • Provide your dog with lots of toys (see our handout: “Dog Toys and How to Use Them”).
    • Rotate your dog’s toys to refresh his interest in them. “New” toys are always more

      interesting than old ones.

    • Try different kinds of toys, but when you introduce a new toy, watch your dog to make

      sure he won’t tear it up and ingest the pieces.

    • Consider the various types of toys that can be stuffed with food. Putting tidbits of food

      inside chew toys focuses your dog’s chewing activities on these toys instead of

      unacceptable objects.

    • Make your dog’s favorite off-limits chew objects unattractive to him by covering them

      with heavy plastic, aluminum foil, hot pepper sauce, or a commercial ”anti-chew”

      product.

    • Consider a good doggie daycare program for two or three days a week to work out some

      of your dog’s excess energy.

      Separation Anxiety

      Dogs with separation anxiety tend to display behaviors that reflect a strong attachment to their owners. This includes following you from room to room, frantic greetings, and reacting anxiously to your preparation to leave the house.

      Factors that can precipitate a separation anxiety problem:

    • A change in the family’s schedule that result in your dog being left alone more often.
    • A move to a new house.
    • The death or loss of a family member or another family pet.
    • A period at a shelter or boarding kennel.

      These behaviors are not motivated by spite or revenge, but by anxiety. Punishment will only make the problem worse. Separation anxiety can be resolved by using counter conditioning and desensitization techniques (see out handouts: “Separation Anxiety” and “Stress Relief for Your Pet”).

      Attention-Seeking Behavior

      Without realizing it, we often pay more attention to our dogs when they are misbehaving. Dogs who don’t receive much attention and reinforcement for appropriate behavior may engage in destructive behavior when their owners are present as a way to attract attention – even if the attention is “negative”, such as a verbal scolding. From a dog’s point of view, negative attention is better than no attention at all.

    Solutions:

    • Make sure that your dog gets plenty of positive attention everyday – playing, walking, grooming, or just petting.
    • Ignore (as much as possible) bad behavior and reward only good behavior. Remember to reward your dog with praise and petting when he’s playing quietly with appropriate toys.
    • Make his favorite off-limits chew objects unattractive or unavailable to him. Use aversives on objects that cannot be put away (see our handout “Aversives for Dogs”).
    • Teach your dog a “drop it” command so when he does pick up an off-limits object, you can use your command and praise him for complying. The best way to teach “drop it” is to practice having him exchange a toy in his possession for a tidbit of food (see our handout: “Teaching Your Dog to “Drop it”).
    • Practice “Nothing in Life is Free” with your dog (see our handout: “Nothing in Life is Free”). This gets your dog in the habit of complying with your commands and is a good way to make sure he gets lots of positive attention for doing the right things – so he won’t have to resort to being naughty just to get your attention.
    • Increase your dog’s opportunities for mental stimulation. Teach your dog a few commands and/or tricks using clicker training and practice them daily (see our handout: “Dog Clicker Training”). If you have time, take an obedience class.

      Fears and Phobias

      Some dogs are afraid of loud noises. Your dog’s destructive behavior may be caused by fear if the destruction occurs when he’s exposed to loud noises, such as thunderstorms, fire crackers, or construction sounds, and if the primary damage is to doors, doorframes, window coverings, screens or walls (see our handouts: “Helping Your Dog Overcome the Fear of Thunder and Other Startling Noises” and “Stress Relief for Your Pet”).

      Solutions:

    • You can work on your dog’s fear and reduce his stress using clicker training. See our handout or attend an obedience class.

    Puppies

    Chewing is normal teething and investigative puppy behavior (see our handout: “Dealing with Normal Puppy Behavior: Chewing”)

    What Not To Do

    Punishment is rarely effective in resolving destructive behavior problems and can even make them worse. Never discipline your dog after-the-fact. If you discover an item your dog has chewed even just a few minutes later, it is too late to administer a correction. Your dog doesn’t understand that, “I chewed those shoes an hour ago and that’s why I’m being scolded now.” People often believe their dog makes this connection because he runs and hides, or “looks guilty”. Dogs don’t feel guilt; rather they display appeasing postures like cowering, running away, or hiding when they feel threatened by an angry tone of voice, body posture, or facial expression. Your dog doesn’t know that he’s done something wrong; he only knows that you’re upset. Punishment after-the-fact will not only fail to eliminate the undesirable behavior, but my also provoke other undesirable behaviors.

    page3image26728
    page3image27000

    ©2014 Dumb Friends League

    Category Behavior Issues
    Post Date July 5, 2014
    1 … 17 18 19 20 21 … 25
    MENU