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    Dealing with normal puppy behavior: chewing

    (From The Dumb Friends League)

    Puppies explore their world by putting things in their mouths. In addition, puppies are teething until they’re about 6 months old, which usually causes them some discomfort. Chewing not only facilitates teething, but also makes sore gums feel better. While it is perfectly normal for puppies to chew on furniture, shoes, and shrubbery, these behaviors can be a problem for you and your puppy will not magically “outgrow” this behavior as he matures. However, by shaping your puppy’s behavior and teaching him which objects are acceptable chew toys and which are not, you are able to minimize chewing problems past 6 months of age.

    Discouraging Unacceptable Behavior

    It is virtually inevitable that your puppy will, at some point, chew up something you value. This is part of raising a puppy! You can, however, prevent most problems by taking the following precautions:

    • Minimize chewing problems by puppy-proofing your house. Put the trash out of reach inside a cabinet or outside on a porch, or buy containers with locking lids. Encourage children to pick up their toys and don’t leave socks, shoes, eye glasses, briefcases, cell phones, or TV remote controls lying around within your puppy’s reach.
    • If, and only if, you actually catch your puppy chewing on something he shouldn’t, interrupt the behavior with a loud noise, then offer him an acceptable chew toy instead. Play with him lavishly when he takes the toy in his mouth.
    • Make unacceptable chew items unpleasant to your puppy. Furniture and other items can be sprayed with Bitter Apple or other taste aversives to make them unappealing (see our handout: “Aversives for Dogs”).
    • Don’t give your puppy objects to play with that can cause confusion, such as old socks, old shoes, or old children’s toys that closely resemble items that are off limits. He cannot tell the difference!
    • Closely supervise your puppy. Don’t give him the chance to go off by himself and get into trouble. Use baby gates, close doors, or tether him to you with a six-foot leash so you can keep an eye on him (see our handout: “The Training Tether”).
    • When you must be gone from the house, confine your puppy to a small, safe area, such as a laundry room. You may also begin to crate train your puppy (see our handout: “Crate Training Your Dog”). Puppies under 5 months of age should not be crated for longer than four hours at a time, as they may not be able to control their bladder and bowels longer than that.
    • Make sure your puppy is getting adequate physical activity. Puppies left alone in a yard do not play by themselves. Take your puppy for walks and /or play a game of fetch with him as often as possible.
    • Your puppy learns what is appropriate in the house when he is in the house with you, so give your puppy plenty of people time.
    • Take your puppy to an obedience class to teach him important commands, like “leave it.”

      Encouraging Acceptable Behavior

    • Provide your puppy with many appropriate toys (see our handout: “Dog Toys and How to Use Them”).

    • Rotate your puppy’s toys. Puppies, like babies, are often more interested in unfamiliar or novel objects. Put out four or five toys for a few days, then pick those up and put out four or five different ones.
    • Experiment with different kinds of toys. When you introduce a new toy to your puppy, watch him to make sure he won’t tear it up and ingest the pieces.
    • Consider the various types of toys that can be stuffed with food. Putting tidbits of food inside chew toys focuses your puppy’s chewing activities on those toys instead of on unacceptable objects.
    • If your puppy is teething, try freezing a wet washcloth for him to chew on.

      What Not To Do

      Never discipline or punish your puppy after-the-fact. If you discover a chewed item even minutes after he’s chewed it, you’re too late to administer a correction. Animals associate punishment with what they’re doing at the time they’re being punished. Dog and puppies cannot reason that, “I tore up those shoes an hour ago and that’s why I’m being scolded now.” Some people believe this is what a puppy is thinking because he runs and hides or because he “looks guilty.” Guilty looks are canine appeasing postures that dogs show when they feel threatened. When you’re angry and upset, the puppy feels threatened by your tone of voice, body postures, and/or facial expressions, so he may hide or show appeasing postures. Punishment after-the-fact will not only fail to eliminate the undesirable behavior, but could provoke other undesirable behaviors, such as aggression or fear.

      Other Reasons for Destructive Behavior

      Although most destructive chewing by puppies is normal behavior, some puppies may exhibit destructive behavior for the same reasons as adult dogs. Examples include separation anxiety, fear- related behaviors, and attention-getting behavior. For help with these problems, contact our free behavior helpline at 303.751.5772, Ext. 1359, or a professional animal behaviorist.

    ©2014 Dumb Friends League

    Category Behavior Issues
    Post Date July 5, 2014

    Crate training your dog

    (From The Dumb Friends League)

    Crate training your dog may take some time and effort, but can be useful in a variety of situations. If you have a new dog or puppy, you can use the crate to limit his access to the house until he learns all the house rules, such as what he can and can’t chew and where he can and can’t eliminate. A crate is also a safe way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as a way of taking him places where he may not be welcome to run freely. If you properly train your dog to use the crate, he will think of it as his safe place and will be happy to spend time there when needed. Always provide water for your dog anytime he is in the crate. Spill proof bowls or bowls that attach to the kennel gate work best.

    Selecting A Crate

    Crates may be plastic (often called “flight kennels”) or collapsible, metal pens. Collapsible fabric kennels are designed for use when the owner is present and may not contain a dog for long periods while unsupervised. Crates come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores. Your dog’s crate should be large enough for him to stand up and turn around in.

    The Crate Training Process

    Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog’s age, temperament and past experiences. It’s important to keep two things in mind while crate training; one, the crate should always be associated with something pleasant; and two, training should take place in a series of small steps – don’t go too fast.

    Step 1: Introducing Your Dog To The Crate

    • Put the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Bring your dog over to the crate and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is securely fastened open so it won’t hit your dog and frighten him.
    • To encourage your dog to enter the crate, drop small food treats near it, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that’s okay – don’t force him to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.

      Step 2: Feeding Your Dog His Meals In The Crate

      • After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, put the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If your dog is still reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate.
      • Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he’s eating. At first, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he’s staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, it’s imperative that you not let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he’ll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine and he’ll keep doing it.

        Step 3: Conditioning Your Dog To The Crate For Longer Time Periods

    • After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you’re home. Call him over to the crate and give him a treat. Give him a command to enter, such as, “kennel up.” Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, then let him out of the crate.

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    • Repeat this process several times a day. With each repetition, gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you’re out of his sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the majority of the time, you can begin leaving him crated when you’re gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks.

    Step 4:

    Part A – Crating Your Dog When Left Alone

    After your dog is spending about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate (see our handout, “Dog Toys and How to Use Them”). You’ll want to vary at what point in your “getting ready to leave” routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn’t be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.

    Don’t make your departures emotional and prolonged, but matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don’t reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you’re home so he doesn’t associate crating with being left alone.

    Part B – Crating Your Dog At Night

    Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you’ll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside. Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that crating doesn’t become associated with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer. Puppies that are healthy can have their water taken from them a few hours before bedtime to help decrease the frequency of potty trips they need to make during the night.

    Potential Problems

    Too Much Time In The Crate

    A crate isn’t a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated. For example, if your dog is crated all day while you’re at work and then crated again all night, he’s spending too much time in too small a space. Other arrangements should be made to accommodate his physical and emotional needs. Also, remember that puppies under 6 months of age shouldn’t stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can’t control their bladders and bowels for longer periods.

    Whining

    If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he’s whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you followed the training procedures outlined above, your dog hasn’t been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. Try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he’ll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you’ve ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you’re convinced that your dog doesn’t need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Do not give in, otherwise you’ll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you’ve progressed gradually through the training steps and haven’t done too much too fast, you will be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

    Separation Anxiety

    Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety will not solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures (see our handout, “Separation Anxiety”).

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     2003-2006 Dumb Friends League. All Rights Reserved. CTYD_R0904

    Category Jindo Info & Dog Tips
    Post Date July 5, 2014

    Children and dogs: important information for parents

    (From The Dumb Friends League)

    Children And Dogs: Important Information For Parents

    Living with a dog can be beneficial to children. Dogs can enhance children’s self-esteem, teach them responsibility and help them to learn empathy. However, children and dogs may not always automatically start off with a wonderful relationship. Parents must be willing to teach the dog and the child acceptable limits of behavior in order to make their interactions pleasant and safe.

    Selecting A Dog

    What age is best? Many people have a warm and fuzzy image of a puppy and a child growing up together. If you have a young child and are thinking of adopting a puppy (less than 1 year old), there are a few things you need to consider.

    • Time and energy: Puppies require a lot of time, patience, training and supervision. They also require socialization in order to become well-adjusted adult dogs. This means they need to be taken places and exposed to new things and new people. If you have a young child who already requires a lot of care and time, you should ask yourself if you will you have enough time to care for a puppy as well.
    • Safety: Puppies, because they’re babies, are fragile creatures. A puppy may become frightened, or even injured, by a well-meaning, curious child who wants to constantly pick him up, hug him or explore his body by pulling on his tail or ears.
    • Rough play: Puppies have sharp teeth and claws with which they may inadvertently injure a small child. Puppies also tend to jump up on small children and knock them down. All interactions between your child and puppy will need to be closely supervised in order to minimize the chances of injuries.
    • Advantages of getting an adult dog: Adult dogs require less time and attention once they’ve adjusted to your family and household routine, although you’ll still need to spend time helping your new dog with the transition to his new home. You can better gauge how hardy and tolerant an adult dog will be of a child’s enthusiasm and you can work with your local animal shelter to adopt a dog that has previously lived with children.

      As a general rule, if your child is under 6 years old, it’s best to adopt a dog that’s over 2 years old. Although puppies can be a lot of fun, and it’s exciting and rewarding to help them grow into wonderful companions, they do require significantly more time to train and supervise than an adult dog.

      What breed is best?

      • Size: Very small breeds of dogs, such as toy poodles or chihuahuas, may not be good choices for a young child. These dogs are fragile and may become easily injured when around rambunctious children. They also tend to be more easily frightened by a lot of activity and noise. Frightened dogs may snap or bite in order to protect themselves. Larger dogs or sturdier small breeds, like pugs or beagles, are often better able to tolerate the activity, noise and rough play that is an inevitable part of living with children.
      • Breed type: Some of the sporting breeds, such as labradors and golden retrievers, can make good pets for families with children. Breeds that have been selected for protective behavior, such as chows and rottweilers, are not usually recommended. It’s sometimes difficult for this type of dog to comfortably tolerate the many comings and goings of children and their friends who may be perceived as territorial intruders. Herding breeds, such as border collies and shepherds, are inclined to “herd” children, chasing and nipping at their heels.
      • Temperament: While generalizations can be made about specific dog breeds, it is just as important to consider a dog’s individual temperament. A dog’s personality is shaped by both past experiences and genetics.

        Who will care for the dog?

        It’s unrealistic to expect a child, regardless of age, to have sole responsibility of caring for a dog. Dogs need basic things like food, water and shelter, but they also need to be played with, exercised and trained on a consistent basis. Teaching a dog the rules of the house and helping him become a good companion is too overwhelming for a young child. While responsible teenagers may be up to the task, they may not be willing to

    spend an adequate amount of time with the dog, as their desire to be with their friends usually takes over at this age. If you’re adopting a dog “for the kids,” you must be prepared and willing to be the dog’s primary caretaker.

    Starting Off Right

    Below are some guidelines to help you start off on the right foot. Remember, children should never be left alone with a dog or puppy without adult supervision.

    Holding:

    • It’s safest for both your child and puppy if your child is sitting down whenever he wants to hold the puppy. Puppies are squirmy and wiggly and may easily fall out of a young child’s arms and be injured. If held insecurely, a puppy may become frightened and snap or nip in response.
    • Have your child offer the puppy a toy to chew while being petted. When puppies are teething, they tend to chew on everything, including hands and arms, so having a chew toy handy will divert the puppy’s teeth away from your child. An added benefit is that the puppy will come to associate pleasant consequences (getting a treat) with being held by your child.
    • For larger dogs, have your child sit in your lap and let the dog approach both of you. This way you can control your child and not allow him to get carried away with pats that are too rough. You are also there to teach your new dog to treat your child gently.

      Petting and giving affection: Children often want to hug dogs around the neck. Your dog may view this as a threatening gesture, rather than an affectionate one, and may react with a growl, snap or bite. You should teach your child to pet your dog from underneath the dog’s chin, rather than hugging him or reaching over his head. You should also teach your child to avoid staring at, or looking directly into, your dog’s eyes.

      Giving Treats: Children tend to become somewhat fearful and anxious when a dog tries to take a treat from their hand. This causes them to jerk their hand away at the last second. The dog may then jump up or lunge to get the treat, which may result in the child being knocked down. Have your child place the treat in an open palm, rather than holding it in his fingers. You may want to place a hand underneath your child’s hand to help guide him.

      Supervising Play: Children run with quick, jerky movements and have high-pitched voices. These actions are highly stimulating to a dog. Consequently, your dog may respond by chasing or jumping up on your child.

      Encourage your child to play quietly around the new dog until both become more comfortable with each other. Your dog also needs to learn which behaviors are appropriate and which are not. Our handout “Dealing with Normal Puppy Behavior: Nipping and Rough Play” outlines procedures for discouraging rough play and encouraging appropriate play. However, most children under the age of 10 are not capable of carrying out these procedures, so it’s helpful to teach your dog a “leave it” command that you can use when play gets too rough. Taking an obedience class together is a good way to teach your dog to respond to commands.

      Punishing your dog for inappropriate behavior will not help. If he learns that being around children always results in “bad things” happening to him, he may become defensive in their presence.

      Possessions: Your dog won’t know the difference between his toys and your child’s toys until you teach him.

    • Your child must take responsibility for keeping his playthings out of your dog’s reach.
    • If, and only if, you catch your dog chewing on something he shouldn’t, interrupt the behavior with a loud noise, then give him an acceptable chew toy and praise him lavishly when he takes the toy in his mouth.
    • Don’t give your dog objects to play with that could cause confusion, such as old socks, old shoes or old children’s toys that closely resemble items that are off limits. He can’t tell the difference!
    • Dogs can be possessive about their food, toys and space. Although it’s normal for a dog to growl or snap to protect these items, it’s not acceptable. At the same time, children need to learn to respect their dog as a living creature who is not to be teased or purposefully hurt and who needs time to himself.

      If your dog is growling or snapping at your child for any reason, the situation needs IMMEDIATE attention. Punishing your dog is likely to make matters worse. (Please consult with a professional for further assistance in these cases).

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     2003 Dumb Friends League. All Rights Reserved. CADI_R1103

    Category Jindo Info & Dog Tips
    Post Date July 5, 2014

    Canine Rivalry

    (From The Dumb Friends League)

    What is Canine Rivalry?

    Canine Rivalry

    Canine rivalry refers to repeated conflicts between dogs living in the same household. Animals that live in groups, like dogs, establish relationships through which the individuals involved interact and live together. The roles that the individuals play within the relationship can change with each new day or situation and can be affected by the presence of various resources, such as food, toys, and attention from people. Dogs may warn each other initially by snarling, growling, or snapping, but not causing injury. However, the conflict may sometimes intensify into prolonged bouts of dangerous fighting, which may result in one or more dogs being injured.

    Getting Professional Help

    Ongoing canine rivalry is potentially dangerous. Dogs or human family members could be severely injured as a result of fighting. Because resolving rivalry problems requires the understanding of the ways in which dogs communicate, it’s often necessary for owners to obtain assistance from a professional animal behaviorist (see our handout: “When the Behavior Helpline Can’t Help”). Certified animal behaviorists are trained to observe, interpret, and modify animal behavior.

    Why Conflict Occurs

    Conflicts between household dogs develop for a wide variety of reasons. Conflicts may occur if:

    • A new animal has been introduced to the household.
    • A resident animal has died or no longer lives in the house.
    • A resident animal is re-introduced after an absence.
    • A young dog reaches social maturity, which is usually between 10 months and 2 years of age. Understanding canine relationships
      • How relationships are established: Relationships are established through healthy communication, which puppies learn early on in life through socialization. However as a result of inadequate socialization, surgical alterations, or genetic tendencies, some dogs lack proper communication skills and may escalate into aggression with very little warning.
      • Your Role: Do not attempt to influence or define the dogs’ relationship by interfering in their interactions with each other or by favoring one dog over another. Rather, establish a strong, stable relationship with each dog individually by practicing “Nothing in Life is Free” (see our handout). Requiring a dog to work for everything it wants is a safe, non- confrontational way of reinforcing the positive ways a dog behaves in the relationship and provides the guidance that dogs need. If your relationship with your dogs is stable, it can help reduce any stress or feelings of instability that may be adding to the conflict between your dogs.

    • Breaking up a fight: If you need to break up a fight, do so by making a loud noise to try and interrupt them. If loud noises do not work, then try squirting the dogs with water. Never attempt to break up a dog fight by grabbing the dogs by their collars or getting any part of yourself in between them. Touching dogs while they are fighting can result in what is called “redirected aggression,” where a dog may bite you because he thinks you are part of the conflict. If you’ve had a dog fight, please call our behavior helpline at (303) 751-5772, Ext. 1359, or contact your veterinarian for a referral to a professional animal behaviorist.

    What You Can Do To Help

    • If the dogs involved are intact males or female, spay or neuter both dogs.
    • Make sure that all the humans in your household are practicing “Nothing in Life is Free.”
    • With the help of a professional animal behaviorist, elicit and reinforce non-aggressive behaviors using counter-conditioning and desensitization techniques. These procedures must be designed and tailored to specifically meet the needs of each individual case and require professional in- home help.
    • Punishment will not resolve the issue and can actually make it worse.
    • You should be aware that if you respond to this type of problem inappropriately, you run the risk of intensifying the problem and potentially causing injury to yourself and/or your dogs.

    ©2014 Dumb Friends League

    Category Behavior Issues
    Post Date July 5, 2014

    Aversives for dogs

    (from The Dumb Friends League)
    An aversive is something that your dog finds unpleasant (also called punishment). It can be used to discourage the dog from a particular action or place. Aversives are most effective when you also offer a pleasant alternative to the place or action you need your pet to avoid. Please experiment cautiously and sparingly when choosing an aversive as individual responses will vary. Using an aversive that is mildly unpleasant for one dog may be terrifying for another and have no effect on yet another. The goal is to apply the aversive at a level that will cause your dog to avoid the action or place without becoming fearful.

    Using Textures as Aversives

    Apply these textures to places you need your dog to avoid, and add toys or treats to appropriate places to make them more attractive.

    Indoors

    Outdoors

    • Irregular/sharp rocks set firmly into dirt
    • Chicken wire set firmly into dirt with the sharp edges rolled under

      Both

      You may need to weigh the material firmly or tape it to keep it in place. To protect furniture or floor finishes from sticky substances, attach the aversive material to a piece of foil or heavy plastic and secure that with weights or light tape. Texture aversives are most effective for puppies, small dogs, or low- confidence dogs than for those that won’t let a little obstacle stand in their way. Easy-to-attach, commercial varieties of texture aversives are available from most pet supply stores.

      Using Tastes as Aversives

      Apply these substances to places where your dog’s mouth should not be, and offer an appropriate item to chew on instead.

    • Bitter Apple or any commercial product that is specifically marketed for taste aversion
    • Some hot sauces
    • Cayenne pepper
    • Citrus odors (colognes, concentrated juices, or fresh peels)
    • Aloe gel
    • Shelf paper with the sticky side up
    • Double-sided carpet tape

    • Heavy plastic carpet runner with the pointed side up

    Some of these substances may damage furniture or floor finishes, so be sure to test them in a hidden location first. Except for hot sauce and cayenne pepper, these substances should be safe to apply to human skin; however, some individuals may be sensitive to them.

    Surprise!

    Remote-controlled Aversives:

    These items can be used to keep your dog off items, like the couch or counters. They are available at pet supply stores or easy to make at home, and are activated by the dog’s behavior, so the owner does not need be present to apply them.

    • Motion detector that reacts with a startling sound or a spray of water
    • Snappy Trainer, or an upside-down mouse trap that is securely taped under paper to avoid contact
    • Aluminum pie plate or cookie sheet containing water, pennies, beans or pebbles – preferably balanced precariously
    • Scat Mat (gives a slight static shock)

      Human-controlled Aversives:

      Use these to interrupt undesirable behaviors, like barking or chewing on furniture; then offer an appropriate alternative. Keep in mind that human-controlled aversives can lead to your dog being afraid of you, or result in your dog still doing the behavior, but when no one is home or in the same room as them.

    • Loud air horn
    • Whistle
    • Shaker can (soda can containing nails, pennies, beans or pebbles, with the opening securely tapes shut)

      WARNING: For fearful dogs, do not use aversives. Aversives may do more harm than good! Also, remember to start out with the lowest level aversive first and experiment cautiously to see what works for your pet.

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    ©2014 Dumb Friends League

    Category Behavior Issues
    Post Date July 5, 2014

    How to interact safely with dogs

    (from The Dumb Friends League)
    Dogs are complex animals that may display a variety of different behaviors in any given situation. Any dog—from your best friend at home to the stray dog on the street—will react differently, and possibly unexpectedly, to people, places and other animals.

    Animal behavior can shift from moment to moment, so it is important to constantly be aware of changes in the dog’s behavior and in the environment. The dog’s personality plays a major role in how it will interact with, or react to, situations and people. Because there is such variation with each dog and environment, it is important to understand how to interact with dogs in as safe a manner as possible in any situation.

    Approach the dog in a safe manner

    Here are some basic tips for approaching a dog in a non-threatening manner:

    •   First and foremost, if the dog is with its owner, ask if it is OK to pet the dog before doing so.
    •   Before you interact with a dog, it is important to be aware of the body signals you are exhibiting.

    o Present your side to the dog—not your front—from a standing or squatting position. o Don’t lean over the dog.
    o Let the dog come to you rather than approaching the dog.
    o Avoid direct eye contact (don’t stare the dog in the eyes).

    o Extend your hand toward the dog.
    o Don’t ever put your face close to the dog’s face. o Talk in a friendly voice.

    Look for signs of stress in the dog

    When interacting with any dog, it is vital that you be very aware of what the dog is communicating to you. It is fairly easy to identify a dog that clearly doesn’t want you to approach; it will bark, growl, tuck its tail, hide, run away or roll over onto its back. However, dogs may show more subtle signs of stress, even while you are petting them. These warning signs indicate that the dog is uncomfortable and may include:

    •   Ears pulled back
    •   Lip licking
    •   Paw raised
    •   Leaning away

     Jerky movements
     Lifting lip (showing canines or other teeth)
     Urinating while interacting with you
     Avoiding eye contact/looking away
     Hackles raised (hair on back of neck standing

    •   Dilated pupils
    •   Crouching down up)

     Quick head turn (toward hand)

     Drinking more than normal

    Based on the signals dogs use to communicate, it is important to know when to back off and when it is OK to continue interacting with the dog.

     Stop petting or otherwise interacting with the dog if you notice the following:
    o A change in the dog’s behavior from loose wagging postures to a tense body
    o Sudden changes in the environment (loud noises, lighting changes, another animal approaching, etc.)

    Safety tips for dog owners

    As a dog owner, it is your responsibility to know your dog’s personality, stress signals and limits; to avoid situations that put your dog in a potentially stressful and dangerous situation; and to watch for signs of stress when encountering people, animals and situations. In addition:

    •   Don’t encourage strangers to approach and pet your dog; instead, let your dog approach them.
    •   Keep your dog on a loose leash when you are in potentially stressful situations, so it can easily move away froma person or animal if it feels uncomfortable.

      For more information on dog behavior and handling, please contact the Dumb Friends League Animal Behavior Helpline at (303) 751-5772, Ext. 1359.

      © Copyright 2004-2012. Dumb Friends League. All Rights Reserved.

    Category Jindo Info & Dog Tips
    Post Date July 5, 2014

    Nothing in Life is Free Technique

    Nothing in Life Is Free
    (from The Dumb Friends League)

    Does your dog; Get on the furniture and refuse to get off? Nudge your hand, insisting on being petting or played with? Refuse to come when called? Defend its food bowl or toys from you? “Nothing in life is free” can help. “Nothing in life is free” is not a magic pill that will solve a specific behavior problem; rather it’s a way of creating a positive relationship with you and your dog that is mutually beneficial.

    How to Practice “Nothing in Life Is Free:”
    • Using positive reinforcement methods, like clicker training and teaching your dog a few behaviors and/or tricks. “Sit,” “Down,” and “Stay” are useful behaviors and “Shake,” “Speak,” and “Rollover” are fun tricks to teach your dog (see our handout: “Dog Clicker Training”).
    • Once your dog knows a few behaviors on cue, you can begin to practice “Nothing in life is free.” Before you give your dog anything (food, a treat, a walk, or a pat on the head) she must perform one of the behaviors she has learned when you ask. For example:

    YOU:Put your dog’s leash on to go for a walk
    YOUR DOG:Must sit until you’ve put the leash on

    YOU:Feed your dog
    YOUR DOG:Must lie down and stay until you’ve put the bowl down

    YOU: Play a game of fetch after work
    YOUR DOG: Must sit and shake each time you throw the toy

    • Once you’ve given the cue, don’t give your dog what she wants until she does what you want. If she refuses to perform the behavior, walk away, come back a few minutes later and start again. If your dog still refuses to perform the behavior, be patient and remember that eventually she will offer the behavior in order to get what she wants.
    • Make sure that your dog knows the behavior well and understands what you want before you begin practicing “Nothing in life is free.”
    • Don’t always ask for the same behavior, make it variable so the dog is waiting for the cue and focused on you.

    The Benefits of This Technique:
    • Requiring a dog to work for everything it wants is a safe, non-confrontational way of reinforcing the positive ways a dog behaves in the relationship.
    • This technique even works well with the affectionate, “pushy” dog. A dog doesn’t have to display aggressive behavior such as growling, snarling, or snapping, to influence a situation. They can nudge your hand to be petted or “worm” their way on to the furniture in order to be close to you.
    • As a dog succeeds in learning more behaviors and tricks, their continued success will increase their confidence, which will reduce their stress and lead to them feeling comfortable in any situation.

    Why This Technique Works:
    • Encourages good behaviors by providing the guidance that dogs need.
    • It is an effective but gentle way to build healthy communication within the relationship.

    “Nothing in life is free” and children
    Because children are small and can get down on the dog’s level to play, dogs often consider them to be playmates. With supervision of an adult, it’s a good idea to encourage children in the household to also practice “Nothing in life is free” with your dog.

    Category Behavior Issues
    Post Date May 8, 2014

    Dog-Cat Introductions

    Article from stubbydog.org By Nan Arthur, CDBC, CPDT-KA, KPACTP, is faculty at Whole Dog Training

    Try this approach before introducing your cat to a new dog or your dog to a new cat

    What your dog learns about living with a cat during the early stages of their initial introductions can set both your dog and cat up for a lifetime of friendship or a lifetime of problems. It’s so important to help your dog and cat learn to live in harmony, if for no other reason than the possibility of a tragic ending. With that in mind, the best thing to do is to begin introducing your dog and the cat in a way that works for both of them.

    Read More →

    Category Behavior Issues, Jindo Info & Dog Tips
    Post Date April 22, 2014
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