Tips:

• ·  When introducing a new behavior, go back to a continuous schedule of reinforcement.
• ·  Lower the value of your treats – as your dog starts to enjoy the clicker game, you may find you can use lower-value treats (like kibble); save higher value treats for more difficult situations or for jackpots.
• ·  Remember to reduce your dog’s meal size for the amount of treats you are feeding during training.

� 2010 Dumb Friends League. All Rights Reserved.

energy without the need for a lot of space. For example, scattering a handful of kibble in the grass or on a patterned carpet will require your dog to use his nose to find the food.

 Many of your dog’s toys should be interactive. Interactive play is very important for your dog because he needs active “people time.” By focusing on a specific task, like repeatedly returning a ball, Kong or

Frisbee, or playing “hide-and-seek” with treats or toys, your dog can expend pent-up mental and physical energy in a limited amount of time and space. This greatly reduces stress due to confinement, isolation and/or boredom. For young, high-energy and untrained dogs, interactive play also offers an opportunity for socialization and helps them learn about appropriate and inappropriate behavior, such as jumping up or being mouthy.

Tug of War

Tug of war has long been thought to be an absolute “don’t” in many dog-owning households. However, by taking a few precautions and setting some basic rules it can be a fun game for you and your dog.

•   Choose a toy that will be reserved exclusively for this particular activity. This will help prevent your dog from grabbing and tugging anything you have in your hand.
•   Teach two commands:
  o “Let’s tug” begins the game. Never allow the dog to initiate tug on his own and always use

Safety

your starting phrase when you begin the game.

o “Give” or “Out” ends the game. Teach your dog to release the toy by offering a treat or better toy in exchange. Do not start playing tug with your dog until he is consistently releasing the toy on command.

There are many factors that contribute to the safety or danger of a toy. Many of those factors are dependent upon your dog’s size, activity level and play style. Although we cannot guarantee your dog’s enthusiasm or his

safety with any specific toy, we can offer the following guidelines:

Toys should be appropriate for your dog’s current size. Balls and other toys that are too small can be easily swallowed or become lodged in your dog’s mouth or throat.

Avoid or alter any toys that are not “dog-proof” by removing ribbons, strings, eyes or other parts that could be chewed off and ingested.

Monitor your dog’s toys and discard any toy that starts to break into pieces or has pieces torn off.

Ask your veterinarian about the safety of items like bones, hooves, pig’s ears and rawhides. Very hard rubber toys are safer and last longer.

Take note of any toy that contains a “squeaker” buried in its center. Your dog may feel that he must find and destroy the squeak source and could ingest it, in which case squeaking toys should be given only under supervision.

Know your dogs chewing habits before leaving him alone with any toy. For example, some dogs will carry a plush toy around for years. Others will enjoy “disemboweling” the toy by pulling all the stuffing out. Still others will chew it apart and ingest the pieces, creating a safety hazard for that dog.

 Revised 2009 Dumb Friends League. All Rights Reserved. DTAH_R0106

Tips:

• ·  When introducing a new behavior, go back to a continuous schedule of reinforcement.
• ·  Lower the value of your treats – as your dog starts to enjoy the clicker game, you may find you can use lower-value treats (like kibble); save higher value treats for more difficult situations or for jackpots.
• ·  Remember to reduce your dog’s meal size for the amount of treats you are feeding during training.
•  2010 Dumb Friends League. All Rights Reserved.

Although feeding time is important, it’s also vital to include petting, talking, and playing, in order to help your puppy build good “people-skills.” Well-socialized mothers are more likely to have well-socialized puppies. Puppies “feed” off their mothers’ calm or fearful attitude toward people.

Puppies are usually weaned at six or seven weeks, but are still learning important skills as their mother gradually leaves them more and more. Ideally, puppies should stay with their littermates (or other role- model dogs) for at least 12 weeks.

Puppies separated from their littermates too early often don’t develop appropriate “social skills,” such as learning how to send and receive signals, what an “inhibited bite” means, how far to go in play wrestling, and so forth. Play is important to help puppies increase their physical coordination, social skills, and learning limits. By interacting with their mother and littermates and attending puppy preschool classes, puppies learn “how to be a dog.”

Skills not acquired during the first eight weeks may be lost forever. While these stages are important and fairly consistent, a dog’s mind remains receptive to new experiences and lessons well beyond puppy-hood. Most dogs are still puppies, in mind and body, through the first two years.

The following chart provides general guidelines for stages of development.

0-2weeks

——————————————————————————————————————————————

• □  Most influenced by their mother.
• □  Touch and taste present at birth.

  2- 4 weeks

  ——————————————————————————————————————————————

• □  Most influenced by their mother and littermates.
• □  Eyes open, teeth erupt, hearing and smell developing.
• □  Beginning to stand, walk a little, wag, and bark.
• □  By four or five weeks, sight is well developed.

  3- 12 weeks

  ——————————————————————————————————————————————

• □  During this period, puppies need opportunities to meet other dogs and people.
• □  By four to six weeks they’re most influenced by their littermates and are learning about being a

  dog.

• □  From four to 12 weeks they’re most influenced by their littermates and people. They’re also

  learning to play, developing social skills, inhibited bite, and physical coordination.

• □  By three to five weeks they’re becoming aware of their surroundings, companions (dogs and

  people) and relationships.

• □  By five to seven weeks they’re developing curiosity and exploring new experiences. They need positive “people” experiences during this time.
• □  By seven to nine weeks they’re refining they’re physical skills/coordination (including housetraining) and have full use of senses.
• □  By eight to ten weeks they experience real fear – when puppies can be alarmed by normal objects and experiences, and need positive training.
• □  By nine to 12 weeks they’re refining reactions, social skills (appropriate interactions) with littermates, and are exploring the environment, spaces, and objects. They are beginning to focus on people. This is a good time to begin training.

  3-6months

  ——————————————————————————————————————————————

• □  Most influenced by “littermates” (playmates now include those of other species).
• □  Beginning to see social relationships.
• □  Teething (and associated chewing).
• □  At four months they experience another fear stage.

  6 – 18 months

  ——————————————————————————————————————————————

• □  Most influenced by humans and dogs.
• □  At seven to nine months they go through a second chewing phase – part of exploring their

  environment.

• □  Heightened exploration of assertion; testing limits, challenging human and dog relationships.
• □  If not spayed or neutered, beginnings of sexual behavior.

©2014 Dumb Friends League

Crate training your dog may take some time and effort, but can be useful in a variety of situations. If you have a new dog or puppy, you can use the crate to limit his access to the house until he learns all the house rules, such as what he can and can’t chew and where he can and can’t eliminate. A crate is also a safe way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as a way of taking him places where he may not be welcome to run freely. If you properly train your dog to use the crate, he will think of it as his safe place and will be happy to spend time there when needed. Always provide water for your dog anytime he is in the crate. Spill proof bowls or bowls that attach to the kennel gate work best.

Selecting A Crate

Crates may be plastic (often called “flight kennels”) or collapsible, metal pens. Collapsible fabric kennels are designed for use when the owner is present and may not contain a dog for long periods while unsupervised. Crates come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores. Your dog’s crate should be large enough for him to stand up and turn around in.

The Crate Training Process

Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog’s age, temperament and past experiences. It’s important to keep two things in mind while crate training; one, the crate should always be associated with something pleasant; and two, training should take place in a series of small steps – don’t go too fast.

Step 1: Introducing Your Dog To The Crate

• Put the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Bring your dog over to the crate and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is securely fastened open so it won’t hit your dog and frighten him.
• To encourage your dog to enter the crate, drop small food treats near it, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that’s okay – don’t force him to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.

  Step 2: Feeding Your Dog His Meals In The Crate

  • After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, put the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If your dog is still reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate.
  • Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he’s eating. At first, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he’s staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, it’s imperative that you not let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he’ll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine and he’ll keep doing it.

    Step 3: Conditioning Your Dog To The Crate For Longer Time Periods

• After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you’re home. Call him over to the crate and give him a treat. Give him a command to enter, such as, “kennel up.” Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, then let him out of the crate.

• Repeat this process several times a day. With each repetition, gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you’re out of his sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the majority of the time, you can begin leaving him crated when you’re gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks.

Step 4:

Part A – Crating Your Dog When Left Alone

After your dog is spending about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate (see our handout, “Dog Toys and How to Use Them”). You’ll want to vary at what point in your “getting ready to leave” routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn’t be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.

Don’t make your departures emotional and prolonged, but matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don’t reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you’re home so he doesn’t associate crating with being left alone.

Part B – Crating Your Dog At Night

Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you’ll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside. Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that crating doesn’t become associated with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer. Puppies that are healthy can have their water taken from them a few hours before bedtime to help decrease the frequency of potty trips they need to make during the night.

Potential Problems

Too Much Time In The Crate

A crate isn’t a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated. For example, if your dog is crated all day while you’re at work and then crated again all night, he’s spending too much time in too small a space. Other arrangements should be made to accommodate his physical and emotional needs. Also, remember that puppies under 6 months of age shouldn’t stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can’t control their bladders and bowels for longer periods.

Whining

If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he’s whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you followed the training procedures outlined above, your dog hasn’t been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. Try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he’ll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you’ve ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you’re convinced that your dog doesn’t need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Do not give in, otherwise you’ll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you’ve progressed gradually through the training steps and haven’t done too much too fast, you will be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

Separation Anxiety

Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety will not solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures (see our handout, “Separation Anxiety”).

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spend an adequate amount of time with the dog, as their desire to be with their friends usually takes over at this age. If you’re adopting a dog “for the kids,” you must be prepared and willing to be the dog’s primary caretaker.

Starting Off Right

Below are some guidelines to help you start off on the right foot. Remember, children should never be left alone with a dog or puppy without adult supervision.

Holding:

• It’s safest for both your child and puppy if your child is sitting down whenever he wants to hold the puppy. Puppies are squirmy and wiggly and may easily fall out of a young child’s arms and be injured. If held insecurely, a puppy may become frightened and snap or nip in response.
• Have your child offer the puppy a toy to chew while being petted. When puppies are teething, they tend to chew on everything, including hands and arms, so having a chew toy handy will divert the puppy’s teeth away from your child. An added benefit is that the puppy will come to associate pleasant consequences (getting a treat) with being held by your child.
• For larger dogs, have your child sit in your lap and let the dog approach both of you. This way you can control your child and not allow him to get carried away with pats that are too rough. You are also there to teach your new dog to treat your child gently.

  Petting and giving affection: Children often want to hug dogs around the neck. Your dog may view this as a threatening gesture, rather than an affectionate one, and may react with a growl, snap or bite. You should teach your child to pet your dog from underneath the dog’s chin, rather than hugging him or reaching over his head. You should also teach your child to avoid staring at, or looking directly into, your dog’s eyes.

  Giving Treats: Children tend to become somewhat fearful and anxious when a dog tries to take a treat from their hand. This causes them to jerk their hand away at the last second. The dog may then jump up or lunge to get the treat, which may result in the child being knocked down. Have your child place the treat in an open palm, rather than holding it in his fingers. You may want to place a hand underneath your child’s hand to help guide him.

  Supervising Play: Children run with quick, jerky movements and have high-pitched voices. These actions are highly stimulating to a dog. Consequently, your dog may respond by chasing or jumping up on your child.

  Encourage your child to play quietly around the new dog until both become more comfortable with each other. Your dog also needs to learn which behaviors are appropriate and which are not. Our handout “Dealing with Normal Puppy Behavior: Nipping and Rough Play” outlines procedures for discouraging rough play and encouraging appropriate play. However, most children under the age of 10 are not capable of carrying out these procedures, so it’s helpful to teach your dog a “leave it” command that you can use when play gets too rough. Taking an obedience class together is a good way to teach your dog to respond to commands.

  Punishing your dog for inappropriate behavior will not help. If he learns that being around children always results in “bad things” happening to him, he may become defensive in their presence.

  Possessions: Your dog won’t know the difference between his toys and your child’s toys until you teach him.

• Your child must take responsibility for keeping his playthings out of your dog’s reach.
• If, and only if, you catch your dog chewing on something he shouldn’t, interrupt the behavior with a loud noise, then give him an acceptable chew toy and praise him lavishly when he takes the toy in his mouth.
• Don’t give your dog objects to play with that could cause confusion, such as old socks, old shoes or old children’s toys that closely resemble items that are off limits. He can’t tell the difference!
• Dogs can be possessive about their food, toys and space. Although it’s normal for a dog to growl or snap to protect these items, it’s not acceptable. At the same time, children need to learn to respect their dog as a living creature who is not to be teased or purposefully hurt and who needs time to himself.

  If your dog is growling or snapping at your child for any reason, the situation needs IMMEDIATE attention. Punishing your dog is likely to make matters worse. (Please consult with a professional for further assistance in these cases).

 2003 Dumb Friends League. All Rights Reserved. CADI_R1103

(from The Dumb Friends League)
Dogs are complex animals that may display a variety of different behaviors in any given situation. Any dog—from your best friend at home to the stray dog on the street—will react differently, and possibly unexpectedly, to people, places and other animals.

Animal behavior can shift from moment to moment, so it is important to constantly be aware of changes in the dog’s behavior and in the environment. The dog’s personality plays a major role in how it will interact with, or react to, situations and people. Because there is such variation with each dog and environment, it is important to understand how to interact with dogs in as safe a manner as possible in any situation.

Approach the dog in a safe manner

Here are some basic tips for approaching a dog in a non-threatening manner:

•   First and foremost, if the dog is with its owner, ask if it is OK to pet the dog before doing so.
•   Before you interact with a dog, it is important to be aware of the body signals you are exhibiting.

o Present your side to the dog—not your front—from a standing or squatting position. o Don’t lean over the dog.
o Let the dog come to you rather than approaching the dog.
o Avoid direct eye contact (don’t stare the dog in the eyes).

o Extend your hand toward the dog.
o Don’t ever put your face close to the dog’s face. o Talk in a friendly voice.

Look for signs of stress in the dog

When interacting with any dog, it is vital that you be very aware of what the dog is communicating to you. It is fairly easy to identify a dog that clearly doesn’t want you to approach; it will bark, growl, tuck its tail, hide, run away or roll over onto its back. However, dogs may show more subtle signs of stress, even while you are petting them. These warning signs indicate that the dog is uncomfortable and may include:

•   Ears pulled back
•   Lip licking
•   Paw raised
•   Leaning away

 Jerky movements
 Lifting lip (showing canines or other teeth)
 Urinating while interacting with you
 Avoiding eye contact/looking away
 Hackles raised (hair on back of neck standing

•   Dilated pupils
•   Crouching down up)

 Quick head turn (toward hand)

 Drinking more than normal

Based on the signals dogs use to communicate, it is important to know when to back off and when it is OK to continue interacting with the dog.

 Stop petting or otherwise interacting with the dog if you notice the following:
o A change in the dog’s behavior from loose wagging postures to a tense body
o Sudden changes in the environment (loud noises, lighting changes, another animal approaching, etc.)